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Posted on November 17, 2025
Tags: madeof:atoms, craft:sewing

After cartridge pleating and honeycombing, I was still somewhat in the mood for that kind of fabric manipulation, and directing my internet searches in that vague direction, and I stumbled on this:katafalk.wordpress.com/2012/06…
Now, do I want to ever make myself a 16th century German costume, especially a kampfrau one? No! I’m from lake Como! Those are the enemies who come down the Alps pillaging and bringing the Black Death with them!
Although I have to admit that at times during my day job I have found the idea of leaving everything to go march with the Jägermonstersattractive. You know, the exciting prospective of long days of march spent knitting sturdy socks, punctuated by the excitement of settling down in camp and having a chance of doing lots of laundry. Or something. Sometimes being a programmer will make you think odd things.
Anyway, going back to the topic, no, I didn’t need an historically accurate hemd. But I did need a couple more shirts for daily wear, I did want to try my hand at smocking, and this looked nice, and I was intrigued by the way the shaping of the neck and shoulder worked, and wondered how comfortable it would be.
And so, it had to be done.
I didn’t have any suitable linen, but I did have quite a bit of cotton voile, and since I wasn’t aiming at historical accuracy it looked like a good option for something where a lot of fabric had to go in a small space.
At first I considered making it with a bit less fabric than the one in the blog, but then the voile was quite thin, so I kept the original measurement as is, only adapting the sleeve / sides seams to my size.

With the pieces being rectangles the width of the fabric, I was able to have at least one side of selvedge on all seams, and took advantage of it by finishing the seams by simply folding the allowances to one sides so that the selvedge was on top, and hemstitching them down as I would have done with a folded edge when felling.
Also, at first I wanted to make the smocking in white on white, but then I thought about a few hanks of electric blue floss I had in my stash, and decided to just go with it.
The initial seams were quickly made, then I started the smocking at the neck, and at that time the project went on hold while I got ready to go to DebConf. Then I came back and took some time to get back into a sewing mood, but finally the smocking on the next was finished, and I could go on with the main sewing, which, as I expected, went decently fast for a handsewing project.

While doing the diagonal smocking on the collar I counted the stitches to make each side the same length, which didn’t completely work because the gathers weren’t that regular to start with, and started each line from the two front opening going towards the center back, leaving a triangle with a different size right in the middle. I think overall it worked well enough.
Then there were a few more interruptions, but at last it was ready! just as the weather turned cold-ish and puffy shirts were no longer in season, but it will be there for me next spring.
I did manage to wear it a few times and I have to say that the neck shaping is quite comfortable indeed: it doesn’t pull in odd ways like the classical historically accurate pirate shirt sometimes does, and the heavy gathering at the neck makes it feel padded and soft.

I’m not as happy with the cuffs: the way I did them with just honeycombing means that they don’t need a closure, and after washing and a bit of steaming they lie nicely, but then they tend to relax in a wider shape. The next time I think I’ll leave a slit in the sleeves, possibly make a different type of smocking (depending on whether I have enough fabric) and then line them like the neck so that they are stable.
Because, yes, I think that there will be another time: I have a few more project before that, and I want to spend maybe another year working from my stash, but then I think I’ll buy some soft linen and make at least another one, maybe with white-on-white smocking so that it will be easier to match with different garments.
blog.trueelena.org/blog/2025/1…
Semitones
in reply to Liam Proven • • •Liam Proven
in reply to Semitones • • •@semitones Will, I'm not a security spod, but I am an experienced IT professional of nearly 40 years. I've advised multinational banks in their security holes. (They ignored me and were very badly hacked a year later.)
I do both these things all the time. Don't worry. I don't.
My email sig contains my real name, 3 real phone numbers, and it has since 1991 when I signed up for my first personal email address. Which still works today, incidentally.
I have never been hacked.
HTTP 1.1/418 Teapot
in reply to Liam Proven • • •lj·rk
in reply to HTTP 1.1/418 Teapot • • •HTTP 1.1/418 Teapot
in reply to lj·rk • • •Liam Proven
in reply to HTTP 1.1/418 Teapot • • •I once wrote a story about an Israeli security firm whose claims for their anti malware violated the Halting Problem and were literally and specifically impossible.
My editor wouldn't run it. He wrote a fair more dilute one.
A year or so later the vendor was discovered to be unknowingly hosting the largest single pr0n archive on the internet. Terabytes of it, in the 1990s. Rooms full of racks of servers for all the smut, because they'd been pwned very early on and didn't check what types or contents of files they were buying storage to hold. They just bought more.
The more smug the security vendor, the less competent.
HTTP 1.1/418 Teapot
in reply to Liam Proven • • •I’m sure there were years of “Oh yeah that’s just how fast our data accumulate. That other weird thing? Yeah, it just does that sometimes.”
lj·rk
in reply to Liam Proven • • •Liam Proven
in reply to lj·rk • • •lj·rk
in reply to Liam Proven • • •Flick 🇬🇧
in reply to Liam Proven • • •@lprovenI would quibble over “Never scan QR codes”: there are documented cases of this scam for parking in the UK.
bbc.co.uk/news/articles/c14ejd…
Parking: Drivers urged to look out for fake RingGo QR code scam
BBC NewsCarolen
in reply to Flick 🇬🇧 • • •Liam Proven
in reply to Carolen • • •Liam Proven
in reply to Flick 🇬🇧 • • •Mattias Eriksson 🦀🚵♂️⛵
in reply to Liam Proven • • •But doesn't that apply to most security? It seems that humans as a group are very good at not using the brain under some conditions.
My camera shoots fascists
in reply to Liam Proven • • •@Flick
"Not turning their brain on"?
It assumes everyone understands the threat model, how their devices work, how the web works. It assumes people are never in a hurry, never distracted or tired. It assumes everyone is extremely technologically literate.
It's sort of like telling people that every single time they use a credit card at a gas station or an ATM that they need to check the security seals and physically grab and jiggle the device to make sure it'a not a skimmer. But then blaming them for not turning their brain on if they didn't do all that and it turns out there is a skimmer and they get scammed. It feels too much like victim blaming.
Yeah, checking a URL before clicking (assuming it's not using a link shorter) is easier than manually jiggling a card reader, but slapping a fake QR code sticker is also lots easier than installing a skimmer, so is an extremely easy scam interface to install.
Liam Proven
in reply to My camera shoots fascists • • •@Mikal @Flick We're in a fancy upmarket food court, like in Battersea Power Station. There's a smartly dressed chap wandering around with a credit card app on his smartphone offering to take payments. He looks a bit like a waiter, if you squint.
He's all smiley and friendly. He _says_ he works there. He doesn't ever stand at the till or behind the bar though. He doesn't carry a menu or have a card reading machine. He avoids the wait staff. He didn't know what you ordered. He never takes anyone's orders in fact.
Would you pay him?
I wouldn't.
Flick 🇬🇧
in reply to Liam Proven • • •@Mikal“We” are not, though. We’re an elderly man who isn’t quite sure how The Internet works (even after his grandchild set up his phone and showed him how to use it) and is trying to get to a GP appointment, or a harassed mum with a kid in the car and a million errands to do before the school run, in a car park in a run down provincial town, who’s just realised that we’ve got no change.
The car parking service provider, and prices, change every few months: the information board is a palimpsest of signs bolted on top of one another. There’s a phone number one can call and wait on hold to speak to someone incomprehensible in a call centre or — aha! — just scan this code and pop in your card details or use Google/Apple Pay.
Stop being so elitist.
Liam Proven
in reply to Flick 🇬🇧 • • •@Flick @Mikal I don't buy it. Either you develop common sense, or as I keep telling one of my cousins, stop using the internet.
Life is risky. There's danger everywhere and people wanting to rob you and rip you off. Functional adults learn wariness and caution.
My camera shoots fascists
in reply to Liam Proven • • •Yep and part of that caution is not scanning QR codes in the wild [edit:] as a general practice. They are something to be very wary of. Useful, sure, but very easily compromised, more easily than many other types of scam vectors.
Giving people advice is fine, but the audience matters. I give different advice to different people based on their skill level and my best guess as to their risk profile.
No matter what, victim blaming when people fall for scams is always counter productive.
David Bramian
in reply to Liam Proven • • •Liam Proven
in reply to David Bramian • • •@davbram @Flick
It is impossible to protect someone from themselves. (Well, if they're a free independent adult, anyway.)
Windows lets you run any random .EXE you downloaded. In recent years, it asks, but one click is enough.
The Mac doesn't. MacOS is Unix, and Unix won't run things just based on a file extension. So it was safer.
But the malware vendors socially engineered people. "To watch this file, you need to install our special codec. In the next box, say 'yes' and enter your password."
If you instruct someone to bypass the OS's built-in security precautions & _tell them how_ then for the promise of free pr0n, a lot of bloody idiots will do as they're told.
Nothing any vendor can do can stop that.
This is not a tech problem. It's not software or hardware. It's liveware. Brains. Telling someone stupid "don't be stupid" doesn't work. Nor does asking them "are you sure?" "Are you REALLY sure?" "If you proceed you may lose all your data. Enter I UNDERSTAND to proceed, then your password."
They will still do it.
So stop blaming the tech for what is the people's fault for not thinking. There is no gain in saying "don't do X" when X is fine.
djsumdog
in reply to Liam Proven • • •There was also the case with Samsung phones. It was back in 2012, but there were phones that had certain service codes you could type into the dialer to get to special menus for checking SIM and unlock status. They would activate when the final number of the code was typed in, so you didn't even have to hit dial.
You could make NFC tags and QR codes with
tel:xxxxURLs on them that the phone would open in the dialer. One was the code to hardware reset the device. So you could literally get the phone to wipe itself just by setting it down on the right NFC tag or scan a QR code:siliconrepublic.com/enterprise…
I also personally hate the move to get rid of restaurant menus and using QR codes to web menus instead. Silly things like that make me avoid restaurants that won't give you a physical menu, forcing you to pull out your anti-social monolith while with friends.
Samsung exploit can wipe users' data in one tap (video) - Enterprise | siliconrepublic.com - Ireland's Technology News Service
Elaine Burke (Silicon Republic)Liam Proven
in reply to djsumdog • • •Viss
in reply to Liam Proven • • •Liam Proven
in reply to Viss • • •DeeAnn Little
in reply to Liam Proven • • •maricn
in reply to Liam Proven • • •@Viss
Liam Proven
in reply to maricn • • •@maricn @Viss
I am not sure exactly what you are trying to say.
What the article I posted says is NOT "do not lock your doors".
It is saying:
"Stop telling people to fit cardboard pretend bars, a plastic chain held on with glue, and 6 extra locks. It may _look_ more secure, but it doesn't help."
Piotr Smyrak
in reply to Liam Proven • • •Liam Proven
in reply to Piotr Smyrak • • •@piero "Solded"?
I don't think it is, no. I don't think these are real general threats that are out there in the wider world, even to those using older devices.
I think the point of this open letter is trying to tell people to focus on the real threats, ones that matter, not distract them with imaginary ones that are not really in use.
Piotr Smyrak
in reply to Liam Proven • • •Solded should have been soldered.
I used to work exposed at this vast user base, and even looking at the devices of my friends and family, I can see a confirmation of what I said.
The primary target of the campaign shall be management boards of mobile OEMs and not ordinary people, who have no technical bases to assess risks or classify which of their devices are critical. And since they are told to use a random VPN in every Youtube video, they will sadly do so.
I am not in principle against this message but the way of its promulgation, which ie. ignores economic barriers to the message application.
Liam Proven
in reply to Piotr Smyrak • • •@piero
Aha. "Soldered" is a strange way to talk about upgradable firmware that _could_ be updated if the OEM bothered to offer an update... but OK.
> The primary target of the campaign shall be management boards of mobile OEMs
No, I do not think it is. I think it is right there spelled out in the opening lines:
«
To the public, employers, journalists, and policymakers
»
Those are who it is aimed at, not who you seem to be saying.
Piotr Smyrak
in reply to Liam Proven • • •Liam Proven
in reply to Piotr Smyrak • • •@piero I am very well aware. I like cheap Chinese phones. I've been using them for a decade, as I have written publicly:
theregister.com/2022/06/02/mur…
«
This reporter is a fan of cheapo Chinese smartphones. In recent years, I've had an iRulu Victory V3, a PPTV King 7, an Umidigi F2 and most recently an Umidigi Bison.
»
All of them got 1 update _ever_, when 1st turned on, and I then used them for the next 2-3 years with zero additional updates to the OS.
And, as I keep saying, I've _never_ got hacked. It's now 40 years since I first got an Internet email address, in 1985.
Murena and /e/ Foundation launch privacy-centric smartphones
Liam Proven (The Register)GNU/翠星石
in reply to Liam Proven • • •WanderingHuman 🇨🇦
in reply to GNU/翠星石 • • •GNU/翠星石
in reply to WanderingHuman 🇨🇦 • • •>How does something access your device Bluetooth without permitting connection first?
The way demon rectangles are designed is to have the bluetooth card regularly announce its hardware MAC address, so the device is in the "discoverable" state and can quickly pair with bluetooth devices like speakers or headphones - only if bluetooth is in the "off" state that such announcement is not made.
The result is that anyone walking past with f-droid.org/en/packages/net.wi… running can store the MAC address, location and time, but more relevantly, there are bluetooth stingrays in stores that collects such metadata and exploits it.
Later bluetooth versions are meant to have privacy MAC's, with a random MAC being announced generally, but I guess that the current random MAC would need to be stored if you decided to pair with a device, with that MAC needing to persist for as long as that device is to be paired to.
I'm not sure if MAC's are encrypted and if not, having bluetooth headphones that only support a static MAC would allow for long term identification for any listener that intercepts the packets containing the static MAC (bluetooth devices inherently receive all bluetooth packets in range, but are designed by default to drop any packets that don't have a relevant MAC).
Often the privacy MAC implementation is intentionally or mistakenly screwed up; news.osu.edu/study-uncovers-ne… (unfortunately the article refers to the boring exploiting of devices as to "hack", when hacking is playful cleverness)
>Don't you need to "allow" a device to connect by Bluetooth?
No - for demon rectangles in the default "discoverable" state, external devices can connect and request paring; simplymac.com/accessories/why-… (LLM slop, but the first few sentences are relevant).
The "allow" permits the current connection to finish the pairing handshake, while disallow rejects the pairing handshake until the asking device tries again.
The handshake is extremely complicated and when implemented with garbage proprietary software, there are always protocol vulnerabilities.
One example of a possible vulnerability is; wiibrew.org/wiki/BlueBomb#How_… - often with these proprietary bluetooth stacks, an exploit can consist of starting the pairing handshake, inserting a stage0 executable of the correct architecture into one of the data packets of the handshake (which makes the bluetooth stack load the executable data into memory) and then sends an invalidly encoded packet that exploits the bs and causes it to jump execution to the stage0 executable in memory (whoops, the data is executable), which can then be used to do anything - for example to upload a larger executable via bluetooth that does a lot of things - all without even a connection request popping up (the bluetooth will stop working as a side effect, but nobody will notice due to how often bluetooth stops working).
For some Android devices, I guess that sometimes the bluetooth stack is run as root and also is excepted from SELinux (as it's hard enough to get it working without SELinux), meaning a successful exploit would allow for full device compromise.
Why Am I Getting Unwanted Bluetooth Pairing Attempts? - SimplyMac
Alex Westby (SimplyMac)Liam Proven
in reply to GNU/翠星石 • • •There you go. If you think of them as demon rectangles, if you know what the difference is between a Mac and a MAC, then this advice is not aimed at you.
And TBH if your answer involves terms like MACs then your advice will go over the heads of the people who need it -- at the height of an intercontinental 747.
You're not wrong in any way. I am not disagreeing!
But turning off your Bluetooth doesn't stop _Them_ tracking you. It barely even slows Them down.
It does stop your smartwatch working, though. It stops you listening to music, because the "demon rectangles" for the masses don't have headphone ports any more.
So they won't, making it pointless advice.
Don't give pointless advice. Work out what the advice could be that will in fact help.
GNU/翠星石
in reply to Liam Proven • • •I'm riding a international GNUKE (I'm as high as space).
>But turning off your Bluetooth doesn't stop _Them_ tracking you.
If it actually turns bluetooth off, it stops bluetooth tracking (of course it doesn't actually turn off bluetooth anymore for some devices), but it doesn't stop gps and mobile location spying.
>It does stop your smartwatch working
The smartwatch isn't yours - it serves another master.
It is highly important to get rid of such surveillance device and get a practical watch that doesn't need to be charged.
>It stops you listening to music, because the "demon rectangles" for the masses don't have headphone ports any more.
If you just want to listen to music, you can get one of these devices dirt cheap if you know where to loop; replicant.us/supported-devices…
>Don't give pointless advice. Work out what the advice could be that will in fact help.
People would regard advise to get rid of the demon rectangle and to cease using as much proprietary software as possible as too extreme.
Replicant
replicant.usPi_rat
in reply to GNU/翠星石 • • •I recently came to know that apple watch notifies you if you are in loud environment. What in absolute retardation I thought, if your ears work why have a watch tell you and if you are deaf loud does not matter... truly slaves will buy anything
Zergling_man - fedicon 2026 @ C109
in reply to Pi_rat • • •Pi_rat
in reply to Zergling_man - fedicon 2026 @ C109 • • •GNU/翠星石
in reply to Pi_rat • • •Pi_rat
in reply to GNU/翠星石 • • •Liam Proven
in reply to Pi_rat • • •Zergling_man - fedicon 2026 @ C109
in reply to GNU/翠星石 • • •If you're going to get a pocketwatch, I strongly recommend getting a case for it, instead of putting it in your pocket (...), to avoid snapping the spindle on the release. I did this like 4 times without even noticing, and the guys at the shop said they'd "never seen it happen before" after the first time. Sounds like bullshit to me. But now that I have a leather case i have not had any problem.
GNU/翠星石
in reply to Zergling_man - fedicon 2026 @ C109 • • •A normal wrist watch replaces a smartwatch and delivers a practically superior experience.
Even a cheap Casio F-91W terrorist watch is far more practical with a 7 year battery life (but that model is only splash-resistant and has poor timekeeping).
The manufacturer rubber watch band always breaks in only a few months if you do anything active ever - but a decent quality rubber band will last.
Zergling_man - fedicon 2026 @ C109
in reply to GNU/翠星石 • • •GNU/翠星石
in reply to Zergling_man - fedicon 2026 @ C109 • • •Liam Proven
in reply to GNU/翠星石 • • •@Suiseiseki @ECityMom @Zergling_man@sacred.harpy.faith I don't know WTF you are on about because none of these random posts are replies to anything.
Either reply properly or STFU & GTFO.
Number6
in reply to Liam Proven • • •The thing to be wary about long passphrases is, for whatever reason, the login login functionality of many sites is poorly designed.
I don't know if it's still true, and I haven't wanted to test it, but when I upgraded my yahoo account to more than 32 characters it happily accepted my new password.
Then when I tried to log back in, I couldn't. Apparently, behind the scenes, it had secretly truncated my password to 32 characters, and thus failed to match my long password.
Liam Proven
in reply to Number6 • • •@number6 I feel we should have a public name-and-shame list of sites that impose restrictions on password choice.
I don't use such long ones but I have a system for generating my own which means no sharing or reuse... But a few banking sites and things break it.
Number6
in reply to Liam Proven • • •I feel like all these sites borrowed code from one central, early source that was written in the 80s, and never double-checked.
Lots of websites I've been on don't tell you what the naming rules are. So you use "John" and it says "That name has been taken". You say "Rumpelstiltskin" and get the same response. You say "AbracadabraIsMyName" and the same response. What it wants (usually) is a numeral, but it doesn't tell you that.
veetee
in reply to Liam Proven • • •Liam Proven
in reply to veetee • • •