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Posted on July 26, 2023
![A woman wearing a top in white fabric with thin blue lines and two groups of blue lozenges near the hems. It has a square neck gathered by a yellow elastic, the blue lines are horizontal on the wide sleeves and vertical, and more spaced, on the body. A woman wearing a top in white fabric with thin blue lines and two groups of blue lozenges near the hems. It has a square neck gathered by a yellow elastic, the blue lines are horizontal on the wide sleeves and vertical, and more spaced, on the body.]()
Since some time I’ve been thinking about making myself a top or a dress with a wide gathered neckline that can be work at different widths, including off-the-shoulders.
A few years ago I’ve been gifted a cut of nice, thin white fabric with a print of lines and lozenges that isn’t uniform along the fabric, but looks like it was designed for some specific garment, and it was waiting in my stash for a suitable pattern.
And a few days ago, during a Sunday lunch, there was an off-hand mention of a dress from the late 1970s which had an elastic in the neckline, so that it could be optionally worn off-the-shoulders.
And something snapped in place.
I had plans for that afternoon, but they were scrapped, and I started to draw, measure, cut rectangles of fabric, pin and measure again, cut more fabric.
![The main pieces of the top laid flat: a big rectangle for the body, The main pieces of the top laid flat: a big rectangle for the body,]()
two rectangular tubes for the sleeves laid so that they meet the body just at the corners, and a triangle (a square gusset folded on the diagonal) joins them to the body.
I decided on a pattern made of rectangles to be able to use as much fabric as possible, with the size of each rectangle based mostly on the various sections on the print of the fabric.
I’ve made the typical sleeves from a rectangle and a square gusset, and then attached them to the body just from the gusset to keep the neckline wide and low.
![The worn top shown from the side back: there is a strip of vertical lines spaced closer together like on the sleeves, and it continues to the bottom rather than ending with a strip of lozenges. The worn top shown from the side back: there is a strip of vertical lines spaced closer together like on the sleeves, and it continues to the bottom rather than ending with a strip of lozenges.]()
The part of the fabric with large vertical stripes had two different widths: I could have made the back narrower, but I decided to just keep a strip with narrower lines to one side.
The fabric also didn’t have a full second strip of lozenges, so I had to hem it halfway through it.
![Closeup of the center front and center back of the neckline casing, showing the matched lines. Closeup of the center front and center back of the neckline casing, showing the matched lines.]()
The casing for the elastic was pieced from various scraps, but at least I was able to match the lines on the center front and back, even if they are different. Not that it matters a lot, since it’s all hidden in the gathering, but I would have known.
And since I was working on something definitely modern, even if made out of squares and rectangles, of course I decided to hand-sew everything, mostly to be able to use quite small sewing allowances, since the fabric was pretty thin.
In my stash I had a piece of swimsuit elastic that feels nice, looks nice and makes a knot that doesn’t slip, so I used it. It’s a perfect match, except for the neon yellow colour, which I do like, but maybe is a bit too high visibility? I will see if the haberdasher has the same elastic in dark blue, but right now this will do.
It was a quick project anyway: by the end of the working week the top was finished; I think that on a sewing machine it would be easy to make it in a day.
![the top worn with the neckline pulled down to leave the shoulders bare. the top worn with the neckline pulled down to leave the shoulders bare.]()
And it can be worn off the shoulders! Which is something I will probably never do in public (and definitely not outdoors), but now if I wanted I could! :D
As usual, the pattern (for what pattern there is) and instructions are on my pattern website under a #FreeSoftWear license, and I’ve also added to the site a tip on how I use electrician fish tape to thread things through long casings
blog.trueelena.org/blog/2023/0…
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •I ganci e occhielli sulla giacca di lino che ho fatto l'anno scorso non stanno funzionando. Credo di sapere quale sia il problema, e la prossima volta che faccio qualcosa di simile metterò delle stecche sull'apertura, ma metterle su questa giacca sarebbe una sofferenza.
Quindi, bottoni e occhielli.
E nelle ultime due settimane ho fatto 32 bottoni ricoperti (con una rondella del brico, non con un kit), segnato col filo la posizione di 31 occhielli, fatto 16 occhielli (ne mancano 15, e attaccare tutti i bottoni).
E il periodo dell'anno in cui una giacca di lino è utile si sta avvicinando rapidamente (o almeno, *spero* che si stia avvicinando. #TeamInverno).
Riuscirò a finire la giacca per quando si sarà rinfrescato? Ci sarà una settimana di temperature gradevolmente fresche mentre la sto ancora finendo, seguita da un mese di ritorno dell'estate?
#cucito #cucitoStorico
rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua reshared this.
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •update: only four buttonholes remaining!
And I've even taken a picture, but it's still in the camera.
Most buttons haven't been attached, however, but I guess there will be more time for those after I've finished the buttonholes.
Or maybe I could stop working on it, and hope that the weather will cool down out of spite.
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •aggiornamento: mancano solo quattro occhielli!
E ho persino scattato una foto, ma è ancora nella macchina fotografica.
La maggior parte dei bottoni è ancora da attaccare, ma immagino che avrò più tempo per farlo una volta finiti gli occhielli.
O magari potrei smettere di lavorarci, e sperare che il meteo rinfreschi per cattiveria.
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •La foto
E quello spazio vicino alla tasca? è più grande degli altri, ma troppo piccolo perché ci stia un'altro occhiello, e non ho segnato un'occhiello lì in mezzo.
E quindi ci sono 30 occhielli, non 31.
E chissene. Funziona ugualmente. E di sicuro non sentirò la mancanza di un bottone da allacciare tutte le volte che indosso la giacca.
Comunque, al momento tutti gli occhielli sono fatti, mancano da attaccare buona parte dei bottoni.
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •The picture
And you see that space close to the pocket? it's a bit bigger than the regular spacing, but smaller than a space that would fit another buttonhole, and I didn't actually mark a buttonhole in it.
And now the front only has 30 buttons, not 31.
Whatever. It will work anyway. And it's not like I'm going to miss closing another button when I wear this jacket :D
Anyway, all of the buttonholes are done, now I have to attach the buttons.