I just want to express my appreciation for content warnings here. I was browsing elsewhere and saw a very distressing story which upset me and my mind struggles to move on from. It wouldn't have happened here as it would have been hidden by a content warning that I wouldn't have clicked on.
Thank you to you all here 💜
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Leatherfolk who speak non-English languages, I wanna hear about how you do Dom/sub titles ("Sir", "boy", etc), diminutives, formality, that sort of thing.
I've spoken to quite a few people who say they switch to English for this, but I feel like there are probably neat cultural/grammatical options in other languages.
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Visto che ci siamo illusi che qui (fediverso generico) la convivenza sarebbe stata...migliore? Dotata di più mezzi di interazione? Boh?, comunque ho un solo consiglio per vojo:
NEL DUBBIO, BLOCCATE.
- non so se quest* mi sta sul cazzo oppure no, eccomunque questa cosa mi genera fastidio? BLOCCO
- ma che davero cos* ha fatto quella battuta lì, maddai? apperò BLOCCO
- mi sono vagamente rott* il cazzo di determinate tematiche che vengono tirate fuori sempre dalle stesse persone? Ma BLOCCO
ed altri incredibili varianti quasi infinite.
Ascoltate la zia, usateli il "silenzia" e il "blocca".
*pat-patta tutti sul testino collettivamente* #pubblicitàprogresso #mediasetperilsociale #forsenontuttisannoche #quesitoconlasusi
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Oh, this looks cute.
And doable.
I've tried getting into tablet weaving a few times but so far I only got as far as finding out that backstrap weaving is not for me.
DIY Weaving Loom From IKEA BEKVÄM Spice Rack : 7 Steps (with Pictures) - Instructables
instructables.com/DIY-Weaving-…
I love the part of the instruction that says "spend a minute staring at the pieces"
Any other little loom hacks out there?
#weaving #tabletweaving #diy #ikeahack @weaving @fiberarts
DIY Weaving Loom From IKEA BEKVÄM Spice Rack
DIY Weaving Loom From IKEA BEKVÄM Spice Rack: This project shows you how to build a small loom for band weaving. It can be used with a rigid heddle or with tablets.Instructables
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Yeah, warp weighted was the next step after backstrap. But it didn't really work for me either. I need something, where the weaving is really "fixed" to the loom so I'm able to carry it around and set it aside.
All my tools are set up that way, so I can switch between projects, set something aside and pick it up later and everything is just as I left it.
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Writing for display in the ancient world
VIEWS took part in this year’s Cambridge Festival, a showcase of research happening across the University of Cambridge. The project team has been together for several months now, so the Festi…The VIEWS project
I've found out what the issue with the #tea shop was: they had to restore the website from backups and some user got stuck in the process.
I've now procured more tea (by preparing a list on the website, printing it out and going to the shop. yes, it's close enough that I could just go there without visiting the website. I could.)
@Naomi P do you want some tea? I'm making an herbal one, since here it's evening, but it can turn into whatever you want during the internet trip :)
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Ho scoperto qual'era il problema col sito del negozio di té: hanno dovuto recuperare il sito da backup e qualche utente è rimasto incastrato nel processo.
Ho procurato del té (preparando un elenco sul sito, stampandolo e andando al negozio. sì, è abbastanza vicino da poterci andare anche senza visitare il sito. volendo.)
Elena ``of Valhalla'' likes this.
#sewing update
the corded petticoat is done! And today I expect to finish the hem on the chemise (I'm almost halfway through it), so there will be some cutting fabric time this afternoon, and that may be either the lining for the #AugustaStays or the cartridge pleated skirt.
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aaand the chemise is also finished!
and then I just didn't have the energy to do anything that required concentration like cutting fabric, so I just did a bit of lucet
(the 3 metre piece has been finished yesterday, now I've started a 1 metre piece for the front lacing)
bookandswordblog likes this.
e ho finito anche la sottogonna!
e poi non avevo le forze per fare qualunque cosa che richiedesse attenzione come tagliare stoffa, quindi ho fatto solo un po' di cordino a lucet.
(il pezzo da tre metri è stato finito ieri, adesso ne ho iniziato uno da un metro per l'allacciatura davanti)
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Getting to the laundry place 5 minutes before it closed on Saturday morning to give them 4 heavy-ish carpets to wash (while they were still on the car rather than having to walk there while carrying them later). done.
(we called when we got on the car, to ask whether it was ok, and the owner of the place knows us well enough that there wasn't any time consuming procedure, we just dumped everything in there and then she will deal with them when she opens next week. but still, it felt wrong.)
rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua likes this.
@rapitadaglialieni
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Come alla posta il primo del mese (qui a giugno arrivano un po' prima delle 6 che è già chiaro).
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#sewing update
The cording on the petticoat has been completed, I'm now doing the vertical seams (hopefully today), and then I have to gather or pleat or something the top and it's done.
I'm cutting a second attempt at the pyra case: I've cut almost everything, but I've just misplaced one of the fabrics I want to use. The inventory says it's in the box I've been looking for it.
I've printed almost all of the hexbin Standard Compliant pattern weights, I've cut enough felt for all of them (I think, I didn't exactly *count*), and I've been using the first one and it works nicely. It's a good excuse to buy new washers the next time I'm at the shop, right?
Related: if you have recommendations for places in Europe that print small amounts of hexagonal #stickers and don't require me to provide a multi layer PDF file (or a tutorial on how to make those with inkscape or other Free Software) I'd be happy to hear about them :)
And thanks to a couple of movie nights¹ at my mother's I'm close to the 3 meters of lucet cord I plan to use for the back of my Augusta Stays. That I still need to cut lining for, why do you ask?
¹ 17:30 - 19:30 or so counts as night, if you're watching a movie, right? :D
Dr Ms Kat likes this.
it had fallen to the bottom of the box
(I keep fabric vertically in the box so that I can see all of it at a glance, but this one was especially slippery)
Lauma Pret 🕸️ likes this.
era caduta sul fondo della scatola
(ripongo la stoffa verticalmente nella scatola in modo da riuscire a vedere tutti i contenuti a colpo d'occhio, ma questa era particolarmente scivolosa)
Bits from the DPL
Dear Debianites This morning I decided to just start writing Bits from DPL and send whatever I have by 18:00 local time. Here it is, barely proof read, along with all it's warts and grammar mistakes! It's slightly long and doesn't contain...Debian Project
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@debacle @valhalla I think it's almost always a good idea to define each acronym the first time it is used, in any kind of document.
In this case, bits.debian.org/2024/04/bits-f… is a fairly long text with "DPL" mentioned more than 20 times. Writing it out the first time would not take much space, and would help make the text a little bit more welcoming to newcomers.
Bits from the DPL
Dear Debianites This morning I decided to just start writing Bits from DPL and send whatever I have by 18:00 local time. Here it is, barely proof read, along with all it's warts and grammar mistakes! It's slightly long and doesn't contain...Debian Project
Hi from the Press Team! You are correct, sometimes we edit things and sometimes we do not, oft is is essential that the speaker speaks as intended and our edits would change the flow of the intention, so we leave them in.
Recently we are addressing this with a few policy changes on editing articles or submissions for publication, we of course invite you to join us: wiki.debian.org/Teams/Publicit…
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If #xz were a Go or Rust dependency, you wouldn’t have a single copy of xz library on your system, but many, #xzbackdoor hidden in every executable that uses it. Distros would have to rebuild all packages using that lib (not just the lib itself), which could take days or weeks, and users would have to update them all, downloading tens or hundreds of megabytes.
If you install binaries directly from vendors/devs, it’s even worse – you wouldn’t even know which ones are affected and you’d (1/3)
Luca Sironi likes this.
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@Aleksandra Fedorova :fedora: @ITwrx @Neal Gompa (ニール・ゴンパ) :fedora: @kravietz 🦇 @Jakub Jirutka 🇪🇺🇺🇦 and even for single person projects, having a packager in each main distribution that isn't the upstream developer is a big plus, as it provides a minimum of oversight and redundancy.
Not much, especially when said maintainer(s) are overworked and demoralized, but still better than nothing.
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Yes, that is an important point too.
When we say co-maintainer, we often implicitly assume that it should be an equally or comparably skilled person doing the same tasks.
And then we stop at a thought on how hard it is to find a duplicate.
While it doesn't have to be.
There is plenty of room for a developer to collaborate with a tester, or a packager or a build engineer, or a documentation writer.
It often can be healthier too.
@ITwrx @Conan_Kudo @kravietz @jakub
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I'm taking a break from historical #sewing to make myself a case for the Pyra¹ that I've just received (YAY!).
Which means working with technical materials.
Which means that two needles have already been broken, and I've just decided to sew the raw edge binding by hand, even if I know it will be painful, because I don't want to deal with another fiddly seam by machine.
¹ handheld gaming console with a full keyboard designed by retrogaming enthusiasts.
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Am I the only one who finds using spray starch almost as fun as using spray paint?
(yes, one day I will try real starch)
(yes, one day I will be ironing and starching my shirts more than an hour before I need to wear them)
(today is not that day)
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@rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua non so, il problema è che abito in collina, non nelle zone da risaia, credo che darò la priorit๠al piantare il mio lino, filarlo e tesserlo, prima di pensare a produrmi il mio amido.
Però potrei fare quello di patate, anche se credo che ingiallisca un po'.
¹ quello richiede “avere un posto dove piantare il lino”, e ancora sono ben lontana dall'averlo. Diciamo che non è in cima alla lista :D
We need a movement for conscientious objection to ReCaptchas. I don’t want to be forced to participate in training machine learning models to identify sidewalks, crosswalks, buses and cars in order to go about my daily life digitally.
I don’t want driverless cars on my city streets. I don’t believe the fiction that this technology will ever be safe.
I do not consent to using my own cognitive labor to train the models that will mow down people on foot or bikes later with no accountability.
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My heart goes out to xz. A single maintainer, who was clearly in a rough place with mental health, screaming out to the world for some help and additional contributions, and somebody shows up wanting to help. Could you imagine how happy that maintainer was? They were no longer alone.
And it turns out the only reason somebody wanted to help them was nefarious. I can’t imagine how they feel right now as everyone is blaming them. I hope they’re ok.
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So, Philipp Kern dropped by asking if we could do some #ReproducibleBuilds verifications of recent Debian Security updates, given, well the whole #xz mess... and that our build infrastructure may have run compromised code at some point...
So I did a quick pass at a handful of updates and everything verified ok so far, though I skipped some of the probably more juicy targets such as chromium and firefox:
lists.reproducible-builds.org/…
Debian is reproducible enough to at least try this sort of thing!
highvoltage likes this.
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Asking people who use #screenReaders: what is the best way to add #AltText to a QR-Code? Are the screen readers clever enough to recognise it as such and offer to read the contents or follow the link? Does putting the content of the QR-Code in the alt text help? or would it make it worse, especially if it is an URL?
boosts are welcome
(the whole point of the post that prompted this question was posting a QR-Code, so no, I couldn't have just posted the URL)
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#sewing update? sewing update!
I suspect that the body of the shift is a bit too wide at the top, but I haven't tried it on yet to find out. It's only missing a hem at the bottom, and then it's done, however (and I'm sure I can adjust the width so that it is wearable anyway).
I haven't done anything on it (nor on the #AugustaStays), however, because I've spent most of my sewing time on the corded petticoat, because *I want to know* whether it will work and how it will look.
And I'm happy to report that I've just finished the next to last section of cording, only 3 more 3-metre-long seams and then I can finally start on the assembly.
von Pearly likes this.
aggiornamento sul #cucito? aggiornamento sul cucito!
Sospetto che la sottoveste sia un po' troppo larga sul busto, ma non l'ho ancora provata per esserne sicura. Manca solo l'orlo in basso, e poi sarebbe finita (e ho fiducia del fatto di poter sistemare in qualche modo la circonferenza in modo da poterla indossare comunque).
Però è un po' che la ignoro (così come sto ignorando le Augusta Staus), perché la maggior parte del mio tempo-cucito in questi giorni è stato passato sulla sottogonna cordonata, perché *voglio sapere* se funziona e che aspetto ha.
E sono felice di annunciare che ho appena finito la penultima sezione di cordonature, mi mancano solo 3 cuciture da 3 metri l'una, e poi posso finalmente iniziare la costruzione.
Carboanion likes this.
TFW you wake up in the morning, try to login on your computer and the h key on your keuboard doesn't work.
so you connect a spare keyboard (cheap gaming keyboard with blue keys, way too noisy for regular use) to a free USB port, login, open a few things and then try to write again with your keyboard, and it works.
disconnect the spare, start having breakfast, post a few things on the fediverse, now the s and the f keys no longer work.
Connect the spare, use it for a while, try the original, it works. And then it stops.
I'm wondering whether I should move elsewhere my keyboard and just resign myself to use the spare today.
(I know what caused the issues, there may have been an accident in the weekend, and a replacement has already been ordered and may even be delivered today or tomorrow, and then there will be time to try and fix the original one.)
TFW ti svegli alla mattina, cerchi di fare login sul computer e il tasto h non funziona.
quindi attacchi la tastiera di scorta (una da gaming economica, con tasti blu che sono troppo rumorosi per l'uso regolare) ad una porta USB libera, fai login, apri un po' di cose, provi a scrivere di nuovo con la tua tastiera e funziona.
stacchi quella di scorta, inizi a fare colazione, postare sul fediverso, e smettono di funzionare i tasti s e f.
Riattacchi quella di scorta, la usi per un po', riprovi l'originale, funzona. E poi smette di funzionare.
Mi chiedo se sia il caso di staccare l'originale e per oggi rassegnarmi ad usare quella di scorta.
(So cosa causa il problea, nel weekend potrebbe esserci stato un piccolo incidente, ed è già stata ordinata una nuova tastiera che potrebbe essere consegnata oggi o domani, e poi ci sarà tempo per provare a far rifunzionare l'originale.)
Vi 💙 likes this.
@Kermode it was hot water that had been used to clean a jar of jam¹, but basically the same thing, except with more sugar.
Not that I would ever do anything like that to my keyboard!
¹ as in: when there is just a bit of jam left I don't bother with removing it with a spoon, I just pour boiling water in it, let it dissolve and then drink the result as if it was an herbal tea.
Kermode likes this.
Ricevo, e credo che sia utile per un po' di vittime di #trenord qui sul fediverso
prealpina.it/pages/lombardia-t…
“La norma nel prevedere la necessità di richiesta dell’abbonato reindirizza la misura compensativa del disagio a chi effettivamente lo ha subito, diversamente da quanto accadeva con il vecchio bonus.”
che credo voglia dire, più o meno “speriamo che la maggior parte dei pendolari si dimentichino di chiederlo e/o non vengano a sapere di doverlo chiedere”
se ho ben capito le istruzioni su come fare la richiesta sono già su regione.lombardia.it/wps/porta…
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@LaVi 🕊️📚🐈 @Fabio mi pareva tempo fa di aver trovato su uno dei siti istituzionali (trenord o regione) che i treni soppressi contino uguali ai treni con più di 30 minuti di ritardo, ma adesso non ho il link sottomano (e non so se le nuove regole siano cambiate).
Comunque c'è il fatto che quei dati non dicono che i treni in ritardo sono ovviamente soprattutto in ora di punta (anche per ragioni ragionevoli, tutto sommato), e che quindi impattano molte più persone rispetto ai treni in orario alle 10 di mattina o alle 8 di sera.
LaVi likes this.
First working prototype of the #CardboardComputer, calculating the Answer to Life, the Universe, and Everything.
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Forgotten Yeast Bread - Sourdough Edition
Posted on March 23, 2024
Tags: madeof:atoms, craft:cooking, craft:baking, craft:bread
Yesterday I had planned a pan sbagliato for today, but I also had quite a bit of sourdough to deal with, so instead of mixing a bit of of dry yeast at 18:00 and mixing it with some additional flour and water at 21:00, at around maybe 20:00 I substituted:
- 100 g firm sourdough;
- 33 g flour;
- 66 g water.
Then I briefly woke up in the middle of the night and poured the dough on the tray at that time instead of having to wake up before 8:00 in the morning.
Everything else was done as in the original recipe.
The firm sourdough is feeded regularly with the same weight of flour and half the weight of water.
Will. do. again.
It's not even April, and I've brushed and steamed the wool skirt I've worn all winter, and mended the small bit that needed mending, and it's ready to be put away for the warm season.
Last year I think I postponed doing it until June or even July.
I'm counting this as a huge success :)
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Elena ``of Valhalla'' likes this.
@Lars Wirzenius yeah, it helps, mostly because you can wrap the thing around it, and only have one layer under the iron.
Mine is just a hand-me-down that isn't even 100% stable, but it already makes a difference.
And then there are the taylor's ham and sausage that I made for pressing while sewing, but sometimes they get used also for ironing sleeves and other small or curvy bits: I don't know if they're worth having if somebody does not sew, but they can help.
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#trenord, ma prima che fossero semre in ritardo :D
22 marzo 1879: arriva il primo treno a Saronno, 145 anni fa
Nel 1879 venne attivata la ferrovia Milano-Saronno, che poi è diventata la "dorsale" della rete delle Ferrovie Nord MilanoRoberto Morandi (Vareseweb Srl)
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rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua reshared this.
@Panormus per il 1879 ho il completo da trekking che ho indossato¹ quando abbiamo fatto la giornata su trenord con @LaVi 🕊️📚🐈 :D
(ok, tecnicamente mi manca anora un cappello, ma sono molto più avanti di quanto non fossi con il 1700 :D )
¹ (e che sto indossando giusto giusto in questi giorni quando esco di casa)
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I’ll let you in on a secret: I love sporadically updated weblogs. I subscribe to over 1200 feeds and most of them are sporadic or even technically “inactive”. Months often pass between updates
It means that every post published was important to the writer
Back in the days of snail mail, letters that began with “It’s been a while since I last wrote to you” were the ones people cherished the most
You don’t need to post every day or even every week to have a blog that matters
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People are replying to this post with links to their own sporadically-updated blogs...
Which is great! Keep 'em coming 🙂
Can't promise that I'll subscribe to any of them, but I'll definitely have a look at each when I have the time
And hopefully others will click through and have a look as well.
Your periodical reminder that all clothing is hand made by humans, usually underpaid!
Polyester doesn't breathe and sheds microplastics when manufactured, worn and washed!
Cotton farming takes immense amounts of water and pesticides!
Viscose can be made from recycled fibres & waste cellulose, but it's a fairly toxic process!
Linen is more ecological to grow but expensive!
"But what do I wear then, Sini?"
The garments you already own, until they fall apart or someone else needs them!
#Sustainability #FastFashion #WorkersRights
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The #RSS spec was released 25 years ago on this day. Happy birthday, RSS! 🎂 🎉 🎁
La compagnie des petits lutins likes this.
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Disclaimer: I've only read canon Harry Potter once many years ago, and what I remember may be seen from fanfiction-tinted glasses.
What really throws me off about the whole JKR thing is that I remember her famous book series as being about people fighting against a group that was defined by having discrimination against an unprivileged group as their main objective. In a mid-quality YA fiction way with lots of problems and plot holes, but still, the Big Bads of the story were the ones doing the discrimination and then even killing etc. of members of a minority.
And then later in her life she goes and basically joins the Death Eaters?
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@Hypolite Petovan otoh Hermione can also be seen as the one that basically really saves everyone (almost to Mary Sue levels, at times), so an empowering character rather than one that is stuck under oppressive gender roles.
(but here I may be misremembering thing and being influenced by the fact that I may have read a few Hermione based fanfictions. just a few :D )
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and this morning I successfully prepared my #tea
and then left it in the kitchen (luckily I had to go there some 10 minutes afterwards, so it didn't cool down too much)
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e stamattina son riuscita a prepararmi correttamente il #té
e poi l'ho dimenticato in cucina (per fortuna ho dovuto tornarci 10 minuti dopo e non si era raffreddato troppo)
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And I think it's time for a new #sewing update.
The shift is progressing nicely, I'm quite happy with the way the sleeves look, and it's getting close to being all assembled together.
In the weekend I've finished the market bag, which means that in category “long straight seams” I've started to work on a corded petticoat.
I've worked on it for more than one hour, and I'm about half through the first seam.
Maybe I should have done it by machine? But at least it is nice and relaxing work, even if it's going to take forever.
As for the lining of the stays… look! a squirrel!
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Also, have I ever mentioned that I have the Italian translation of the famous Reader's Digest sewing book, and that when I write these posts I often have to go through it to find the Italian terms I need for the translation?
Yes, I have learned the basics of #sewing in Italian, but everything else in English on the internet, does it show? :D
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Ah, e ho mai detto che ho la traduzione italiana del famoso libro di cucito di Selezione dal Reader's Digest, e che quando scrivo questi post spesso lo uso per trovare i termini italiani che mi servono per la traduzione?
Sì, ho imparato le basi del #cucito in italiano, ma tutto il resto in inglese su internet, si nota? :D
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@ashneehs
Ditto for me with machines like lathes etc.
It took me a lot of time to discover that a gib is called "lardone".
yt.cdaut.de/watch?v=jRTHjP0sC-…
Matching Dovetails - Adding a Gib
In this video I will mill down the male side of the matching dovetail and add a gib.MrPragmaticLee | Invidious
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Avresti dovuto vedere la faccia della commessa a cui ho chiesto dell'interfaccia fusibile 😂 tutt'ora non mi ricordo come si dica in italiano
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Low Fat, No Eggs, Lasagna-ish
Posted on March 10, 2024
Tags: madeof:atoms, craft:cooking
A few notes on what we had for lunch, to be able to repeat it after the summer.
There were a number of food intolerance related restrictions which meant that the traditional lasagna recipe wasn’t an option; the result still tasted good, but it was a bit softer and messier to take out of the pan and into the dishes.
On Saturday afternoon we made fresh no-egg pasta with 200 g (durum) flour and 100 g water, after about 1 hour it was divided in 6 parts and rolled to thickness #6 on the pasta machine.
Meanwhile, about 500 ml of low fat almost-ragù-like meat sauce was taken out of the freezer: this was a bit too little, 750 ml would have been better.
On Saturday evening we made a sauce with 1 l of low-fat milk and 80 g of flour, and the meat sauce was heated up.
Then everything was put in a 28 cm × 23 cm pan, with 6 layers of pasta and 7 layers of the two sauces, and left to cool down.
And on Sunday morning it was baked for 35 min in the oven at 180 °C.
With 3 people we only had about two thirds of it.
Next time I think we should try to use 400 - 500 g of flour (so that it’s easier to work by machine), 2 l of milk, 1.5 l of meat sauce and divide it into 3 pans: one to eat the next day and two to freeze (uncooked) for another day.
No pictures, because by the time I thought about writing a post we were already more than halfway through eating it :)
rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua likes this.
Elastic Neck Top Two: MOAR Ruffles
Posted on March 9, 2024
Tags: madeof:atoms, craft:sewing, FreeSoftWear
After making my Elastic Neck TopI knew I wanted to make another one less constrained by the amount of available fabric.
I had a big cut of white cotton voile, I bought some more swimsuit elastic, and I also had a spool of n°100 sewing cotton, but then I postponed the project for a while I was working on other things.
Then FOSDEM 2024 arrived, I was going to remote it, and I was working on my Augusta Stays, but I knew that in the middle of FOSDEM I risked getting to the stage where I needed to leave the computer to try the stays on: not something really compatible with the frenetic pace of a FOSDEM weekend, even one spent at home.
I needed a backup project1, and this was perfect: I already had everything I needed, the pattern and instructions were already on my site (so I didn’t need to take pictures while working), and it was mostly a lot of straight seams, perfect while watching conference videos.
So, on the Friday before FOSDEM I cut all of the pieces, then spent three quarters of FOSDEM on the stays, and when I reached the point where I needed to stop for a fit test I started on the top.
Like the first one, everything was sewn by hand, and one week after I had started everything was assembled, except for the casings for the elastic at the neck and cuffs, which required about 10 km of sewing, and even if it was just a running stitch it made me want to reconsider my lifestyle choices a few times: there was really no reason for me not to do just those seams by machine in a few minutes.
Instead I kept sewing by hand whenever I had time for it, and on the next weekend it was ready. We had a rare day of sun during the weekend, so I wore my thermal underwear, some other layer, a scarf around my neck, and went outside with my SO to have a batch of pictures taken (those in the jeans posts, and others for a post I haven’t written yet. Have I mentioned I have a backlog?).
And then the top went into the wardrobe, and it will come out again when the weather will be a bit warmer. Or maybe it will be used under the Augusta Stays, since I don’t have a 1700 chemise yet, but that requires actually finishing them.
The pattern for this project was already online, of course, but I’ve added a picture of the casing to the relevant section, and everything is as usual #FreeSoftWear.
- yes, I could have worked on some knitting WIP, but lately I’m more in a sewing mood.↩︎
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Denim Waistcoat
Posted on March 8, 2024
Tags: madeof:atoms, craft:sewing, FreeSoftWear
I had finished sewing my jeans, I had a scant 50 cm of elastic denim left.
Unrelated to that, I had just finished drafting a vest with Valentina, after the Cutters’ Practical Guide to the Cutting of Ladies Garments.
A new pattern requires a (wearable) mockup. 50 cm of leftover fabric require a quick project. The decision didn’t take a lot of time.
As a mockup, I kept things easy: single layer with no lining, some edges finished with a topstitched hem and some with bias tape, and plain tape on the fronts, to give more support to the buttons and buttonholes.
I did add pockets: not real welt ones (too much effort on denim), but simple slits covered by flaps.
piece; there is a slit in the middle that has been finished with topstitching.
To do them I marked the slits, then I cut two rectangles of pocketing fabric that should have been as wide as the slit + 1.5 cm (width of the pocket) + 3 cm (allowances) and twice the sum of as tall as I wanted the pocket to be plus 1 cm (space above the slit) + 1.5 cm (allowances).
Then I put the rectangle on the right side of the denim, aligned so that the top edge was 2.5 cm above the slit, sewed 2 mm from the slit, cut, turned the pocketing to the wrong side, pressed and topstitched 2 mm from the fold to finish the slit.
other sides; it does not lay flat on the right side of the fabric because the finished slit (hidden in the picture) is pulling it.
Then I turned the pocketing back to the right side, folded it in half, sewed the side and top seams with a small allowance, pressed and turned it again to the wrong side, where I sewed the seams again to make a french seam.
And finally, a simple rectangular denim flap was topstitched to the front, covering the slits.
I wasn’t as precise as I should have been and the pockets aren’t exactly the right size, but they will do to see if I got the positions right (I think that the breast one should be a cm or so lower, the waist ones are fine), and of course they are tiny, but that’s to be expected from a waistcoat.
The other thing that wasn’t exactly as expected is the back: the pattern splits the bottom part of the back to give it “sufficient spring over the hips”. The book is probably published in 1892, but I had already found when drafting the foundation skirt that its idea of “hips” includes a bit of structure. The “enough steel to carry a book or a cup of tea” kind of structure. I should have expected a lot of spring, and indeed that’s what I got.
To fit the bottom part of the back on the limited amount of fabric I had to piece it, and I suspect that the flat felled seam in the center is helping it sticking out; I don’t think it’s exactly bad, but it is a peculiar look.
Also, I had to cut the back on the fold, rather than having a seam in the middle and the grain on a different angle.
Anyway, my next waistcoat project is going to have a linen-cotton lining and silk fashion fabric, and I’d say that the pattern is good enough that I can do a few small fixes and cut it directly in the lining, using it as a second mockup.
As for the wrinkles, there is quite a bit, but it looks something that will be solved by a bit of lightweight boning in the side seams and in the front; it will be seen in the second mockup and the finished waistcoat.
As for this one, it’s definitely going to get some wear as is, in casual contexts. Except. Well, it’s a denim waistcoat, right? With a very different cut from the “get a denim jacket and rip out the sleeves”, but still a denim waistcoat, right? The kind that you cover in patches, right?
And I may have screenprinted a “home sewing is killing fashion” patch some time ago, using the SVG from wikimedia commons / the Home Taping is Killing Music page.
And. Maybe I’ll wait until I have finished the real waistcoat. But I suspect that one, and other sewing / costuming patches may happen in the future.
No regrets, as the words on my seam ripper pin say, right? :D
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Oblomov
in reply to las_lallero • • •las_lallero
Unknown parent • • •Il silenziamento a volte non mi sembra abbastanza, non so perché
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