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#sewing update? sewing update!

I suspect that the body of the shift is a bit too wide at the top, but I haven't tried it on yet to find out. It's only missing a hem at the bottom, and then it's done, however (and I'm sure I can adjust the width so that it is wearable anyway).

I haven't done anything on it (nor on the #AugustaStays), however, because I've spent most of my sewing time on the corded petticoat, because *I want to know* whether it will work and how it will look.

And I'm happy to report that I've just finished the next to last section of cording, only 3 more 3-metre-long seams and then I can finally start on the assembly.

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua ha ricondiviso questo.

aggiornamento sul #cucito? aggiornamento sul cucito!

Sospetto che la sottoveste sia un po' troppo larga sul busto, ma non l'ho ancora provata per esserne sicura. Manca solo l'orlo in basso, e poi sarebbe finita (e ho fiducia del fatto di poter sistemare in qualche modo la circonferenza in modo da poterla indossare comunque).

Però è un po' che la ignoro (così come sto ignorando le Augusta Staus), perché la maggior parte del mio tempo-cucito in questi giorni è stato passato sulla sottogonna cordonata, perché *voglio sapere* se funziona e che aspetto ha.

E sono felice di annunciare che ho appena finito la penultima sezione di cordonature, mi mancano solo 3 cuciture da 3 metri l'una, e poi posso finalmente iniziare la costruzione.


Elena ``of Valhalla'' ha ricondiviso questo.


Why isn't Redict on GitHub?

Answered here:

https://github.com/redis/redis/pull/13157#issuecomment-2022380438

reshared this

in reply to Drew DeVault

Solid reply, this will definitely surprise folks who only know the GitHub model of working on open source software.

Also a good time to promote and support Codeberg; how do we do this best?

in reply to Daniel

@djh
1. Support projects on Codeberg. Signal boost Redict and projects like it on Codeberg (also... maybe on SourceHut? 👉 👈)
2. Move your own projects or start new ones on free infrastructure
in reply to Drew DeVault

thanks for the write up. People just had their rug pulled by a company and simply don't see the problem on hosting a new fork in a closed platform, also run by a company. It is just baffling really.


TFW you wake up in the morning, try to login on your computer and the h key on your keuboard doesn't work.

so you connect a spare keyboard (cheap gaming keyboard with blue keys, way too noisy for regular use) to a free USB port, login, open a few things and then try to write again with your keyboard, and it works.

disconnect the spare, start having breakfast, post a few things on the fediverse, now the s and the f keys no longer work.

Connect the spare, use it for a while, try the original, it works. And then it stops.

I'm wondering whether I should move elsewhere my keyboard and just resign myself to use the spare today.

(I know what caused the issues, there may have been an accident in the weekend, and a replacement has already been ordered and may even be delivered today or tomorrow, and then there will be time to try and fix the original one.)

in reply to Kermode

@Kermode it was hot water that had been used to clean a jar of jam¹, but basically the same thing, except with more sugar.

Not that I would ever do anything like that to my keyboard!

¹ as in: when there is just a bit of jam left I don't bother with removing it with a spoon, I just pour boiling water in it, let it dissolve and then drink the result as if it was an herbal tea.

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

> then drink the result as if it was an herbal tea
Good idea for next time!
(but without giving my keyboard a taste)

Elena ``of Valhalla'' ha ricondiviso questo.


Wow!

@snikket_im just started their new federated instant messaging hosting service (based on #XMPP) for everyone.

This can really be a gamechanger for instant messaging.

You can bring your own domain name if you want to.

This means: for about 5.50€ (6$) a month (according to the website) you get ten instant messaging accounts for you and your family/friends using your personal domain name (not included).

And you are able to talk to every other XMPP user out there.

https://snikket.org/


Ferdinando Simonetti ha ricondiviso questo.


Ricevo, e credo che sia utile per un po' di vittime di #trenord qui sul fediverso

https://www.prealpina.it/pages/lombardia-treni-in-ritardo-aumenta-lindennizzo-334475.html

“La norma nel prevedere la necessità di richiesta dell’abbonato reindirizza la misura compensativa del disagio a chi effettivamente lo ha subito, diversamente da quanto accadeva con il vecchio bonus.”

che credo voglia dire, più o meno “speriamo che la maggior parte dei pendolari si dimentichino di chiederlo e/o non vengano a sapere di doverlo chiedere”

se ho ben capito le istruzioni su come fare la richiesta sono già su https://www.regione.lombardia.it/wps/portal/istituzionale/HP/DettaglioServizio/servizi-e-informazioni/Cittadini/Muoversi-in-Lombardia/Treni/bonus-ferroviario/bonus-ferroviario

@LaVi 🕊️📚🐈 @Fabio #trenò

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

ti ringrazio e spargo volentieri la voce. Anche se molto ci sarebbe da dire circa i dati di puntualità, calcolati senza tener conto dei treni che, superato un certo numero di minuti di ritardo, vengono soppressi così da non rientrare nel conteggio.
In realtà Trenord sta offrendo un servizio costantemente peggiorativo, a cominciare dal *quasi obbligo* di scaricare un'app (segue)
@fabrixxm
in reply to LaVi 🕊️📚🐈

fatta malissimo, proseguendo col biglietto elettronico, che di fatto ha ridotto la possibilità di utilizzo dello stesso (prima acquistavi un biglietto e potevi usarlo quando ti pareva, ora devi farlo entro 24 ore), al già annunciato abbonamento elettronico e via dicendo. Ciò che migliora è solo la profilazione degli utenti e la depredazione di dati.

@valhalla @fabrixxm

in reply to LaVi 🕊️📚🐈 rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua ha ricondiviso questo.

@LaVi 🕊️📚🐈 @Fabio mi pareva tempo fa di aver trovato su uno dei siti istituzionali (trenord o regione) che i treni soppressi contino uguali ai treni con più di 30 minuti di ritardo, ma adesso non ho il link sottomano (e non so se le nuove regole siano cambiate).

Comunque c'è il fatto che quei dati non dicono che i treni in ritardo sono ovviamente soprattutto in ora di punta (anche per ragioni ragionevoli, tutto sommato), e che quindi impattano molte più persone rispetto ai treni in orario alle 10 di mattina o alle 8 di sera.





Forgotten Yeast Bread - Sourdough Edition


Posted on March 23, 2024
Tags: madeof:atoms, craft:cooking, craft:baking, craft:bread
Yesterday I had planned a pan sbagliato for today, but I also had quite a bit of sourdough to deal with, so instead of mixing a bit of of dry yeast at 18:00 and mixing it with some additional flour and water at 21:00, at around maybe 20:00 I substituted:

  • 100 g firm sourdough;
  • 33 g flour;
  • 66 g water.

Then I briefly woke up in the middle of the night and poured the dough on the tray at that time instead of having to wake up before 8:00 in the morning.

Everything else was done as in the original recipe.

The firm sourdough is feeded regularly with the same weight of flour and half the weight of water.

Will. do. again.


https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2024/03/23-forgotten_yeast_bread_sourdough_edition/index.html


Elena ``of Valhalla'' ha ricondiviso questo.


Avviso contenuto: social-media meta, smut

reshared this

in reply to Esther is in exam mode rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua ha ricondiviso questo.

Avviso contenuto: social-media meta, nudity

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rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua ha ricondiviso questo.


It's not even April, and I've brushed and steamed the wool skirt I've worn all winter, and mended the small bit that needed mending, and it's ready to be put away for the warm season.

Last year I think I postponed doing it until June or even July.

I'm counting this as a huge success :)

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Ah, ironing board. Having one would probably help me with my garment care. The kitchen table is not ideal.
in reply to Lars Wirzenius

@Lars Wirzenius yeah, it helps, mostly because you can wrap the thing around it, and only have one layer under the iron.

Mine is just a hand-me-down that isn't even 100% stable, but it already makes a difference.

And then there are the taylor's ham and sausage that I made for pressing while sewing, but sometimes they get used also for ironing sleeves and other small or curvy bits: I don't know if they're worth having if somebody does not sew, but they can help.


Elena ``of Valhalla'' ha ricondiviso questo.


The fedi isn't like email. The fedi is like if you accidentally triple booked a bdsm convention, a FSF convention, and a communist workers AGM all in the same german arena

reshared this


LaVi 🕊️📚🐈 ha ricondiviso questo.


@LaVi 🕊️📚🐈

#trenord, ma prima che fossero semre in ritardo :D

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Elena ``of Valhalla'' ha ricondiviso questo.


I’ll let you in on a secret: I love sporadically updated weblogs. I subscribe to over 1200 feeds and most of them are sporadic or even technically “inactive”. Months often pass between updates

It means that every post published was important to the writer

Back in the days of snail mail, letters that began with “It’s been a while since I last wrote to you” were the ones people cherished the most

You don’t need to post every day or even every week to have a blog that matters

in reply to Baldur Bjarnason

People are replying to this post with links to their own sporadically-updated blogs...

Which is great! Keep 'em coming 🙂

Can't promise that I'll subscribe to any of them, but I'll definitely have a look at each when I have the time

And hopefully others will click through and have a look as well.

in reply to Baldur Bjarnason

I have a little blog that is definitely sporadic, and mostly to keep track of what books I'm reading. Was thinking about another "now" post.

Elena ``of Valhalla'' ha ricondiviso questo.


Your periodical reminder that all clothing is hand made by humans, usually underpaid!
Polyester doesn't breathe and sheds microplastics when manufactured, worn and washed!
Cotton farming takes immense amounts of water and pesticides!
Viscose can be made from recycled fibres & waste cellulose, but it's a fairly toxic process!
Linen is more ecological to grow but expensive!

"But what do I wear then, Sini?"
The garments you already own, until they fall apart or someone else needs them!
#Sustainability #FastFashion #WorkersRights

in reply to Sini Tuulia

Mä ostan niin harvoin uusia vaatteita. Mulla on nyt pari T-paitaa, joissa on muutama reikä, mutta en vielä heitä ne roskiin, odotan ja kun reikiä on liian paljon, heitän ne roskiin ja ostan uusia.
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Shopping thrift also saves existing clothes from a landfill, if you can find the right size/shape.


spanezz ha ricondiviso questo.


Avviso contenuto: JKR, personal

in reply to Hypolite Petovan

Avviso contenuto: JKR, personal

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

@Elena ``of Valhalla'' You aren't remembering wrong, remember the Time-Turner intrigue? Turns out Hermione literally had to go back in time to be able to study for more classes.

rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua ha ricondiviso questo.


and this morning I successfully prepared my #tea

and then left it in the kitchen (luckily I had to go there some 10 minutes afterwards, so it didn't cool down too much)

#tea
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua ha ricondiviso questo.

e stamattina son riuscita a prepararmi correttamente il #

e poi l'ho dimenticato in cucina (per fortuna ho dovuto tornarci 10 minuti dopo e non si era raffreddato troppo)

#


And I think it's time for a new #sewing update.

The shift is progressing nicely, I'm quite happy with the way the sleeves look, and it's getting close to being all assembled together.

In the weekend I've finished the market bag, which means that in category “long straight seams” I've started to work on a corded petticoat.

I've worked on it for more than one hour, and I'm about half through the first seam.

Maybe I should have done it by machine? But at least it is nice and relaxing work, even if it's going to take forever.

As for the lining of the stays… look! a squirrel!

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua ha ricondiviso questo.

Also, have I ever mentioned that I have the Italian translation of the famous Reader's Digest sewing book, and that when I write these posts I often have to go through it to find the Italian terms I need for the translation?

Yes, I have learned the basics of #sewing in Italian, but everything else in English on the internet, does it show? :D

reshared this

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Ah, e ho mai detto che ho la traduzione italiana del famoso libro di cucito di Selezione dal Reader's Digest, e che quando scrivo questi post spesso lo uso per trovare i termini italiani che mi servono per la traduzione?

Sì, ho imparato le basi del #cucito in italiano, ma tutto il resto in inglese su internet, si nota? :D

in reply to Ashnee HS

@ashneehs
Ditto for me with machines like lathes etc.

It took me a lot of time to discover that a gib is called "lardone".

https://yt.cdaut.de/watch?v=jRTHjP0sC-o

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

stesso problema anche con la maglia e l'uncinetto.
Avresti dovuto vedere la faccia della commessa a cui ho chiesto dell'interfaccia fusibile 😂 tutt'ora non mi ricordo come si dica in italiano
in reply to Vi 💙

@Vi 💙 credo che sia teletta termoadesiva

o almeno lo era ai tempi della traduzione del libro :D

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

@Vi 💙 forse anche interfodera, sempre termoadesiva (ho cercato su un negozio di tessuti dove so che ce l'hanno)
Unknown parent

@Kermode here on the fediverse there are quite a few people who do all of the things I do (and even better)

rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua ha ricondiviso questo.


Low Fat, No Eggs, Lasagna-ish


Posted on March 10, 2024
Tags: madeof:atoms, craft:cooking
A few notes on what we had for lunch, to be able to repeat it after the summer.

There were a number of food intolerance related restrictions which meant that the traditional lasagna recipe wasn’t an option; the result still tasted good, but it was a bit softer and messier to take out of the pan and into the dishes.

On Saturday afternoon we made fresh no-egg pasta with 200 g (durum) flour and 100 g water, after about 1 hour it was divided in 6 parts and rolled to thickness #6 on the pasta machine.

Meanwhile, about 500 ml of low fat almost-ragù-like meat sauce was taken out of the freezer: this was a bit too little, 750 ml would have been better.

On Saturday evening we made a sauce with 1 l of low-fat milk and 80 g of flour, and the meat sauce was heated up.

Then everything was put in a 28 cm × 23 cm pan, with 6 layers of pasta and 7 layers of the two sauces, and left to cool down.

And on Sunday morning it was baked for 35 min in the oven at 180 °C.

With 3 people we only had about two thirds of it.

Next time I think we should try to use 400 - 500 g of flour (so that it’s easier to work by machine), 2 l of milk, 1.5 l of meat sauce and divide it into 3 pans: one to eat the next day and two to freeze (uncooked) for another day.

No pictures, because by the time I thought about writing a post we were already more than halfway through eating it :)


https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/drafts/low_fat_no_eggs_lasagna_ish/index.html

#6

rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua ha ricondiviso questo.


Elastic Neck Top Two: MOAR Ruffles


Posted on March 9, 2024
Tags: madeof:atoms, craft:sewing, FreeSoftWear
A woman wearing a white top with a wide neck with ruffles and puffy sleeves that are gathered at the cuff. The top is tucked in the trousers to gather the fullness at the waist.

After making my Elastic Neck TopI knew I wanted to make another one less constrained by the amount of available fabric.

I had a big cut of white cotton voile, I bought some more swimsuit elastic, and I also had a spool of n°100 sewing cotton, but then I postponed the project for a while I was working on other things.

Then FOSDEM 2024 arrived, I was going to remote it, and I was working on my Augusta Stays, but I knew that in the middle of FOSDEM I risked getting to the stage where I needed to leave the computer to try the stays on: not something really compatible with the frenetic pace of a FOSDEM weekend, even one spent at home.

I needed a backup project1, and this was perfect: I already had everything I needed, the pattern and instructions were already on my site (so I didn’t need to take pictures while working), and it was mostly a lot of straight seams, perfect while watching conference videos.

So, on the Friday before FOSDEM I cut all of the pieces, then spent three quarters of FOSDEM on the stays, and when I reached the point where I needed to stop for a fit test I started on the top.

Like the first one, everything was sewn by hand, and one week after I had started everything was assembled, except for the casings for the elastic at the neck and cuffs, which required about 10 km of sewing, and even if it was just a running stitch it made me want to reconsider my lifestyle choices a few times: there was really no reason for me not to do just those seams by machine in a few minutes.

Instead I kept sewing by hand whenever I had time for it, and on the next weekend it was ready. We had a rare day of sun during the weekend, so I wore my thermal underwear, some other layer, a scarf around my neck, and went outside with my SO to have a batch of pictures taken (those in the jeans posts, and others for a post I haven’t written yet. Have I mentioned I have a backlog?).

And then the top went into the wardrobe, and it will come out again when the weather will be a bit warmer. Or maybe it will be used under the Augusta Stays, since I don’t have a 1700 chemise yet, but that requires actually finishing them.

The pattern for this project was already online, of course, but I’ve added a picture of the casing to the relevant section, and everything is as usual #FreeSoftWear.


  1. yes, I could have worked on some knitting WIP, but lately I’m more in a sewing mood.↩︎

https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2024/03/09-elastic_neck_top_two_moar_ruffles/index.html


Elena ``of Valhalla'' ha ricondiviso questo.


the funny thing when you learn a little about linguistics is when you observe people saying or writing things weird you no longer go “argh that is wrong please correct it” and instead you go “huh, this is interesting, please tell me why you do that, where did you learn that, does your family do it too, does the other version feel less right, do you teach this to your children”

rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua ha ricondiviso questo.


Denim Waistcoat


Posted on March 8, 2024
Tags: madeof:atoms, craft:sewing, FreeSoftWear
A woman wearing a single breasted waistcoat with double darts at the waist, two pocket flaps at the waist and one on the left upper breast. It has four jeans buttons.

I had finished sewing my jeans, I had a scant 50 cm of elastic denim left.

Unrelated to that, I had just finished drafting a vest with Valentina, after the Cutters’ Practical Guide to the Cutting of Ladies Garments.

A new pattern requires a (wearable) mockup. 50 cm of leftover fabric require a quick project. The decision didn’t take a lot of time.

As a mockup, I kept things easy: single layer with no lining, some edges finished with a topstitched hem and some with bias tape, and plain tape on the fronts, to give more support to the buttons and buttonholes.

I did add pockets: not real welt ones (too much effort on denim), but simple slits covered by flaps.

a rectangle of pocketing fabric on the wrong side of a denim

piece; there is a slit in the middle that has been finished with topstitching.


To do them I marked the slits, then I cut two rectangles of pocketing fabric that should have been as wide as the slit + 1.5 cm (width of the pocket) + 3 cm (allowances) and twice the sum of as tall as I wanted the pocket to be plus 1 cm (space above the slit) + 1.5 cm (allowances).

Then I put the rectangle on the right side of the denim, aligned so that the top edge was 2.5 cm above the slit, sewed 2 mm from the slit, cut, turned the pocketing to the wrong side, pressed and topstitched 2 mm from the fold to finish the slit.

a piece of pocketing fabric folded in half and sewn on all 3

other sides; it does not lay flat on the right side of the fabric because the finished slit (hidden in the picture) is pulling it.


Then I turned the pocketing back to the right side, folded it in half, sewed the side and top seams with a small allowance, pressed and turned it again to the wrong side, where I sewed the seams again to make a french seam.

And finally, a simple rectangular denim flap was topstitched to the front, covering the slits.

I wasn’t as precise as I should have been and the pockets aren’t exactly the right size, but they will do to see if I got the positions right (I think that the breast one should be a cm or so lower, the waist ones are fine), and of course they are tiny, but that’s to be expected from a waistcoat.

The back of the waistcoat,

The other thing that wasn’t exactly as expected is the back: the pattern splits the bottom part of the back to give it “sufficient spring over the hips”. The book is probably published in 1892, but I had already found when drafting the foundation skirt that its idea of “hips” includes a bit of structure. The “enough steel to carry a book or a cup of tea” kind of structure. I should have expected a lot of spring, and indeed that’s what I got.

To fit the bottom part of the back on the limited amount of fabric I had to piece it, and I suspect that the flat felled seam in the center is helping it sticking out; I don’t think it’s exactly bad, but it is a peculiar look.

Also, I had to cut the back on the fold, rather than having a seam in the middle and the grain on a different angle.

Anyway, my next waistcoat project is going to have a linen-cotton lining and silk fashion fabric, and I’d say that the pattern is good enough that I can do a few small fixes and cut it directly in the lining, using it as a second mockup.

As for the wrinkles, there is quite a bit, but it looks something that will be solved by a bit of lightweight boning in the side seams and in the front; it will be seen in the second mockup and the finished waistcoat.

As for this one, it’s definitely going to get some wear as is, in casual contexts. Except. Well, it’s a denim waistcoat, right? With a very different cut from the “get a denim jacket and rip out the sleeves”, but still a denim waistcoat, right? The kind that you cover in patches, right?

Outline of a sewing machine with teeth and crossed bones below it, and the text “home sewing is killing fashion / and it's illegal”

And I may have screenprinted a “home sewing is killing fashion” patch some time ago, using the SVG from wikimedia commons / the Home Taping is Killing Music page.

And. Maybe I’ll wait until I have finished the real waistcoat. But I suspect that one, and other sewing / costuming patches may happen in the future.

No regrets, as the words on my seam ripper pin say, right? :D


https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2024/03/08-denim_waistcoat/index.html

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

@Julian Andres Klode 🏳️‍🌈 OTOH, today I was wearing the same outfit with black wrist warmers that looked a bit like sleeve protectors, and it felt *very* vintage office.

rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua ha ricondiviso questo.


Jeans, step two. And three. And four.


Posted on March 7, 2024
Tags: madeof:atoms, FreeSoftWear
A woman wearing a regular pair of slim-cut black denim jeans.

I was working on what looked like a good pattern for a pair of jeans-shaped trousers, and I knew I wasn’t happy with 200-ish g/m² cotton-linen for general use outside of deep summer, but I didn’t have a source for proper denim either (I had been low-key looking for it for a long time).

Then one day I looked at an article I had saved about fabric shops that sell technical fabric and while window-shopping on one I found that they had a decent selection of denim in a decent weight.

I decided it was a sign, and decided to buy the two heaviest denim they had: a 100% cotton, 355 g/m² oneand a 97% cotton, 3% elastane at 385 g/m²1; the latter was a bit of compromise as I shouldn’t really be buying fabric adulterated with the Scourge of Humanity, but it was heavier than the plain one, and I may be having a thing for tightly fitting jeans, so this may be one of the very few woven fabric where I’m not morally opposed to its existence.

And, I’d like to add, I resisted buying any of the very nice wools they also seem to carry, other than just a couple of samples.

Since the shop only sold in 1 meter increments, and I needed about 1.5 meters for each pair of jeans, I decided to buy 3 meters per type, and have enough to make a total of four pair of jeans. A bit more than I strictly needed, maybe, but I was completely out of wearable day-to-day trousers.

a cardboard box with neatly folded black denim, covered in semi-transparent plastic.

The shop sent everything very quickly, the courier took their time (oh, well) but eventually delivered my fabric on a sunny enough day that I could wash it and start as soon as possible on the first pair.

The pattern I did in linen was a bit too fitting, but I was afraid I had widened it a bit too much, so I did the first pair in the 100% cotton denim. Sewing them took me about a week of early mornings and late afternoons, excluding the weekend, and my worries proved false: they were mostly just fine.

The only bit that could have been a bit better is the waistband, which is a tiny bit too wide on the back: it’s designed to be so for comfort, but the next time I should pull the elastic a bit more, so that it stays closer to the body.

The same from the back, showing the applied pockets with a sewn logo.

I wore those jeans daily for the rest of the week, and confirmed that they were indeed comfortable and the pattern was ok, so on the next Monday I started to cut the elastic denim.

I decided to cut and sew two pairs, assembly-line style, using the shaped waistband for one of them and the straight one for the other one.

I started working on them on a Monday, and on that week I had a couple of days when I just couldn’t, plus I completely skipped sewing on the weekend, but on Tuesday the next week one pair was ready and could be worn, and the other one only needed small finishes.

A woman wearing another pair of jeans; the waistband here is shaped to fit rather than having elastic.

And I have to say, I’m really, really happy with the ones with a shaped waistband in elastic denim, as they fit even better than the ones with a straight waistband gathered with elastic. Cutting it requires more fabric, but I think it’s definitely worth it.

But it will be a problem for a later time: right now three pairs of jeans are a good number to keep in rotation, and I hope I won’t have to sew jeans for myself for quite some time.

A plastic bag with mid-sized offcuts of denim; there is a 30 cm ruler on top that is just wider than the bag

I think that the leftovers of plain denim will be used for a skirt or something else, and as for the leftovers of elastic denim, well, there aren’t a lot left, but what else I did with them is the topic for another post.

Thanks to the fact that they are all slightly different, I’ve started to keep track of the times when I wash each pair, and hopefully I will be able to see whether the elastic denim is significantly less durable than the regular, or the added weight compensates for it somewhat. I’m not sure I’ll manage to remember about saving the data until they get worn, but if I do it will be interesting to know.

Oh, and I say I’ve finished working on jeans and everything, but I still haven’t sewn the belt loops to the third pair. And I’m currently wearing them. It’s a sewist tradition, or something. :D


  1. The links are to the shop for Italy; you can copy the “Codice prodotto” and look for it on one of the shop version for other countries (where they apply the right vat etc., but sadly they don’t allow to mix and match those settings and the language).↩︎

https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2024/03/07-jeans_step_two_and_three_and_four/index.html


rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua ha ricondiviso questo.


/me rants at aspell for daring to suggest “sexist” as a correction for “sewist”

sewist. it's a word. learn it.

and no, it's not “sewer”. I'm not a sewer, ok.

(go and suggest a patch for the dictionary file rather than ranting on the internet? naaaaaa, too much effort :D )

reshared this

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua ha ricondiviso questo.

/me gesticola col bastone contro aspell che suggerisce “sexist” come correzione per “sewist”

sewist. è una parola inglese. imparala.

e no, la parola giusta non è sewist. non sono una fogna, ok?

(alzare il culo e preparare e suggerire una patch ai file del dizionario, anziché lamentarsi su internet? troppo sbattito :D )

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las_lallero ha ricondiviso questo.


Vendo macchina da cucire Singer 8280 usata

Chiedo 100 euro trattabili, consegna in zona Varese / Como (se proprio
proprio necessario si può organizzare per zona Milano).

Mi pare che sia stata comprata nei primi anni 2000, il modello era in
vendita e presente sul sito singer fino all'anno scorso.
Ovviamente è ancora presente il manuale originale, completo di istruzioni di
manutenzione base.

Non la uso da qualche anno, ma era perfettamente funzionante e ad una prova
veloce mi pare che lo sia ancora.

Ulteriori dettagli nei commenti

#mastoMercatino @Il Mercatino del Fediverso 💵♻️

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

ciao, se non l'hai già venduta e sei disposta a scendere a 85€ la prendo io (ti andrebbe bene consegna Saronno?) 🥰
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' Il Mercatino del Fediverso 💵♻️ ha ricondiviso questo.

Ero un po' impensierita, perché a marzo inoltrato non mi si era ancora palesata "la cosa da imparare a fare quest'anno"¹, ma ieri @valhalla e @mercatino credo mi abbiano risolto il problema 🥰

¹ anziché fare i "buoni propositi" d'inizio anno, che tanto poi restavano propositi, da qualche tempo ho iniziato a provare a imparare una cosa nuova ogni anno.

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Elena ``of Valhalla'' ha ricondiviso questo.


Avviso contenuto: toot fondamentali

in reply to las_lallero

Avviso contenuto: toot fondamentali

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Avviso contenuto: toot fondamentali


rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua ha ricondiviso questo.


@LaVi 🕊️📚🐈I think I know somebody else who could use that excuse :D


that's the new excuse for Deutsche Bahn: Service is interrupted due to a giant cat sleeping on the tracks.



I was luceting and suddenly my mother put To Tame a Land (Iron Maiden) on her phone, and my hands tried (and failed) to get into the rhythm of the song, and the rhythmic movement attracted a worm… er… and my hands stumbled because I'm not that good at luceting and I was trying to go too fast, and then my hands tried to pick up the rhythm again and… it was intense.

I need to train and try it again. But not this close to bedtime.

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua ha ricondiviso questo.

Stavo usando il lucet e senza preavviso mia madre ha messo To Tame a Land (degli Iron Maiden) sul telefono, e le mie mani hanno cercato (invano) di prendere il ritmo della canzone, e il movimento ritmico ha attirato un verme… volevo dire… e le mani hanno inciampato perché non sono *così* brava con il lucet, e stavo cercando di andare troppo veloce, e poi le mie mani hanno cercato di riprendere il ritmo e… è stato intenso.

Devo allenarmi e riprovarci. Ma non quando è ora di andare a dormire.

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rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua ha ricondiviso questo.


/me, walking in town> the only thing that annoys me about the rain is the way the traffic gets louder
@Diego Roversi > the only thing? what about wet and cold feet?
/me, wearing woolen socks and hiking boots> what wet feet?
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua ha ricondiviso questo.

/me, camminando verso il centro> l'unica cosa che da fastidio della pioggia è quanto il traffico diventi ancora più rumoroso
@Diego Roversi > l'unica? e i piedi che si bagnano e prendono freddo no?
/me, con addosso scarponcini da trekking e scarpe di lana> quali piedi che si bagnano?

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rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua ha ricondiviso questo.


The #sillyDream of tonight was finding and buying a #metal LP¹ from the band Iridium, titled of course Iridium, with a big *shiny* #FountainPen nib on the cover.

And now I have a voice in my mind that sings

♫ Iridium point / on a nib of steel / workers in a German plant / laying down iridium points ♫

to the tune of Medieval Steel (by Medieval Steel, from the EP Medieval Steel, of course)

¹ or maybe it was an EP? something round, 12 inches in diameter, and in a square cardboard sleeve anyway :)


Elena ``of Valhalla'' ha ricondiviso questo.


Gattone comasco se ne va a zonzo, piantando i propri bipedi umani nella disperazione. E io mi gioco ancora la carta del #PersoETrovato che più volte ha funzionato.
Confido in voi e nel vostro prezioso passaparola. Grazie!

#CercoTrovo #mastodonperilsociale #mastodoncats #gattidimastodon

in reply to LaVi 🕊️📚🐈

Ho come l'idea che cercare di "bloccare" quel gattone possa essere controproducente.
Unknown parent rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua ha ricondiviso questo.

Elena ``of Valhalla''

@LaVi 🕊️📚🐈 @rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua magari invece se vede un umano che gli parla in gatto si avvicina spontaneamente e si fa anche prendere in braccio

meglio ancora se l'umano parla in gatto *e* offre un tributo in croccantini, ovviamente



#sewing update

the drawers have been finished. I haven't worn them yet.

the binding on the bottom of the #AugustaStays is done, that on the top is almost all attached, and then I need to sew it to the back. I'm procrastinating the cutting of the lining.

I've cut and started hemming the shoulder sack / marked bag. Wait, have I just started a new #handsewing project before finishing the ones in progress? Who does that kind of things (me. the answer is me. :D )

this morning I finished the last machine seams on the denim vest and attached the buttons, I need to to the buttonholes and then it's wearable.

the pieces for the shift have been cut, except for the fact that the side gores are still attached to the main body. I'm trying to figure out how I'm going to sew everything together (and that may change the exact size of the gores).

And I've realized that I've probably done one of the seams of the drawers wrong¹: I can fix the instructions I'm writing, but then they won't have a picture of that step until I do another pair of drawers. it will have to be.

¹ as in: perfectly serviceable, but not the way the book I was following probably intended.

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua ha ricondiviso questo.

Aggiornamento sullo stato dei progetti di #cucito

I mutandoni sono finiti. Non li ho ancora indossati.

L'orlo inferiore delle Augusta Stays è stato ricoperto, su quello superiore ho attaccato quasi tutta la fettuccia, ma devo ancora fissarla sul retro. Sto procrastinando il taglio della fodera.

Ho tagliato e iniziato a cucire la borsa a sacco. Un momento, che borsa a sacco? Per caso ho iniziato un nuovo progetto di #cucitoAMano prima di aver finito quelli in corso? Chi è che fa queste cose!?! (io. :D )

Questa mattina ho finito le ultime cuciture a macchina sul gilet di jeans e attaccato i bottoni, mancano gli occhielli e poi è indossabile.

I pezzi della sottoveste sono stati tagliati, tranne il fatto che i godet laterali sono ancora attaccati al davanti e al dietro. Sto cercando di capire come assemblerò il tutto, e a seconda di come li cucio cambiano leggermente le misure.

E mi sono resa conto che probabilmente ho cucito parte dei mutandoni nel modo sbagliato¹: posso sistemare le istruzioni, ma vuol dire che per quel passaggio non ci sarà una foto fino a che non farò un altro paio di mutandoni. è così.

¹ funziona perfettamente, ma probabilmente non è il tipo di cucitura che intendevano nel libro che sto seguendo.

reshared this

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Today we could see the yellow ball in the sky!

So in the afternoon I went on a frenzy of doing part of a seam, taking pictures, then doing another bit of a seam elsewhere, more pictures, rinse, repeat on the shift.

I hope I have enough half-done seams (and repeats of the same seam in a symmetric position) for the next few days of rain :)

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua ha ricondiviso questo.

Oggi si vedeva la palla gialla nel cielo!

Quindi nel pomeriggio ci ho dato dentro nel cucire una parte di una cucitura, fare foto, fare un altro pezzo di cucitura da un'altra parte, ulteriore foto, eccetera eccetera sulla sottoveste.

Spero di aver abbastanza cuciture a metà (e ripetizioni della stessa cucitura in una posizione simmetrica) per i prossimi giorni di pioggia :)

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

time required to carefully measure and pleat two sleeves: X¹

time required to:

a) pin an approximation of the pleating pattern on half of one sleeve, to see whether it fits
b) make a custom pleating board with a precise version of said pleating pattern
c) pleat two sleeves using said pleating board

probably at least 4 × X, if not more.

Can you guess which option I've just chosen?

Can you guess that I'm a programmer? :D

¹ I don't know exactly know how much it would be, but I'd estimate a few tens of minutes

#sewing #prematureOptimization

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua ha ricondiviso questo.

tempo necessario per misurare con precisione ed effettuare delle pieghe su due maniche: X¹

tempo necessario per:

a) appuntire in modo approssimativo le pieghe su metà di una manica per verificare che la misura sia corretta
b) realizzare un ausilio per pieghe su misura con la versione precisa di quello schema di piegatura
c) piegare le due maniche usando il suddetto ausilio

probabilmente almeno 4 × X, se non di più.

Si indovina facilmente cosa ho scelto di fare?

Si capisce che sono un programmatore, vero?

¹ non so con precisione quanto sia, ma stimerei qualche decina di minuti

#cucito #ottimizzazionePrematura

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

And I've just realized that if I had done one of the seams in a slightly different way it would have been more accurate to the description in the book.

I've changed the instructions I'm writing.

Do I want to unpick the seam and do it again to take pictures?

#sewing #historicalSewing

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua ha ricondiviso questo.

E mi sono appena resa conto che facendo una delle cuciture in un modo leggermente differente sarebbe stato più accurato rispetto alla descrizione data nel libro.

Ho corretto le istruzioni che sto scrivendo.

Ho voglia di disfare la cucitura e rifarla per fare foto?

#cucito #cucitoStorico

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

the custom pleating board was in the wrong size. It results in pleats that aren't deep enough to manage all of the fullness.

I could measure directly on the fabric, or I could use the second half of the poster paper sheet and make another one.

On a more positive note: the vest is wearable (not done. I have ideas.), and one half of the top binding of the #AugustaStays is done, and I'm on the way to finish the other half!

#sewing

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua ha ricondiviso questo.

l'ausilio di piegatura era della misura sbagliata. Fa delle pieghe che non sono abbastanza profonde per gestire tutta l'abbondanza di stoffa.

Potrei misurare le pieghe direttamente sulla stoffa, oppure potrei usare la seconda metà del foglio di carta da poster per farne un'altro.

Passando alle buone notizie: il gilet è indossabile (non finito. ho idee.) e metà dei margini delle Augusta Stays sono finiti, e sono ad un buon punto con l'altra metà!

#cucito

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Se hai bisogno di carta 70×100 fai un giro per le varie sedi di partito: saranno felicissimi di regalarti rotoli di manifesti obsoleti.
in reply to rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua ha ricondiviso questo.

@rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua eh, ma per stirarci sopra stoffa bianca (e anche abbastanza trasparente) è meglio se non è ancora stampata, prima che con il caldo e il vapore si trasferisca qualche pezzo della stessa.

e poi dovrei andare tipo nella sede della lega? quelli che mettono in giro manifesti (e che spediscono volantini cartacei) qui da noi sono loro…

in reply to rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua

@GustavinoBevilacqua si ma devi scegliere bene il partito, con un manifesto di Salvini si può AL MASSIMO incartare la lettiera usata dei gatti...
in reply to Carlo Ricchiardi rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua ha ricondiviso questo.

@Carlo Ricchiardi @rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua la lettiera non è compostabile?

il manifesto di salvini credo che vada nell'indifferenziato, e poi ti fa alzare il prezzo della tassa dei rifiuti

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

binding done!

I should really cut the lining pieces now

(instead I'm currently hemming the market bag)

#sewing #AugustaStays

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua ha ricondiviso questo.

margini rifiniti!

adesso è decisamente ora di tagliare la fodera

(invece sto facendo l'orlo della market bag)

#cucito

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

The second attempt at a custom pleating board worked just fine, I'm currently working on the sleeves of the shift.

I still haven't cut the lining pieces for the #AugustaStays

And I've made myself a new sashiko thimble, and patched the old one which was failing, because I'm using it on the market bag (and will need to use it for the next task in the “40s underwear” project)

Not historically accurate, I know. But much faster, and gives exactly the same result.

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Il secondo tentativo di ausilio di piegatura ha funzionato perfettamente, sto lavorando alle maniche della sottoveste.

E ancora non ho tagliato la fodera delle Augusta Stays.

Però mi son fatta un nuovo ditale per sashiko, e riparato quello vecchio che si stava bucando, perché lo sto usando per la market bag (e lo userò nel prossimo pezzo per il progetto “biancheria anni 40”)

La tecnica non è storicamente accurata. Ma si cuce molto più rapidamente, e il risultato è esattamente lo stesso.



rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua ha ricondiviso questo.


yesterday evening there was a salamino on the dinner table.

apparently, one grain of pepper from it ended up on the bread.

the same bread I had this morning for breakfast.

in the last bit of bread I was having.

#earlyMorningTrauma

reshared this

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Io stamattina ho versato dell'acqua a @CodroipoBehemoth in un bicchiere che pensavo fosse pulito, invece aveva residui di vermut bianco sul fondo.
La(L)colazione dei campioni

Elena ``of Valhalla'' ha ricondiviso questo.


Hey #knitting folks: what books/resources do you recommend for making clothing items based on your measurements, and then using gauge in your chosen yarn/stitch from there? Any type of garment or accessory is fine, but bonus points if you know of something that guides you on making tights/stockings (leggings with feet?)

Thanks in advance, everyone!

in reply to Ashley Reynolds

@Ashley Reynolds This is the first sock pattern I've ever used and has been my sock pattern since then, some times extended up the leg by taking measurements and winging it :) https://knitty.com/ISSUEsummer06/PATTuniversalsock.html

however it's just a socks pattern, afaik most other things on the site are regular knitting patterns with precalculated numbers

in reply to Ashley Reynolds

I know that Cat Bordhi published something that describes sizing socks in great detail, particularly to different size/shape feet. Almost too much detail because socks will shape themselves to your feet if they're roughly the right sort of size. She talks about measuring all sorts of parts of a foot, sole, insole etc, so very detailed.
Unfortunately I don't remember which book. She also invented the sweet tomato heel, my favourite. Very smooth, easy to do.

rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua ha ricondiviso questo.


no, un momento. siamo al 24 febbraio.

perché sta facendo un temporale *estivo* con grandine?

#teamInverno

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rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua ha ricondiviso questo.


Jeans, step one


Posted on February 19, 2024
Tags: madeof:atoms, craft:sewing, FreeSoftWear
CW for body size change mentions

A woman wearing a pair of tight jeans.

Just like the corset, I also needed a new pair of jeans.

Back when my body size changed drastically of course my jeans no longer fit. While I was waiting for my size to stabilize I kept wearing them with a somewhat tight belt, but it was ugly and somewhat uncomfortable.

When I had stopped changing a lot I tried to buy new ones in the same model, and found out that I was too thin for the menswear jeans of that shop. I could have gone back to wearing women’s jeans, but I didn’t want to have to deal with the crappy fabric and short pockets, so I basically spent a few years wearing mostly skirts, and oversized jeans when I really needed trousers.

Meanwhile, I had drafted a jeans pattern for my SO, which we had planned to make in technical fabric, but ended up being made in a cotton-wool mystery mix for winter and in linen-cotton for summer, and the technical fabric version was no longer needed (yay for natural fibres!)

It was clear what the solution to my jeans problems would have been, I just had to stop getting distracted by other projects and draft a new pattern using a womanswear block instead of a menswear one.

Which, in January 2024 I finally did, and I believe it took a bit less time than the previous one, even if it had all of the same fiddly pieces.

I already had a cut of the same cotton-linen I had used for my SO, except in black, and used it to make the pair this post is about.

The parametric pattern is of course online, as #FreeSoftWear, at the usual place. This time it was faster, since I didn’t have to write step-by-step instructions, as they are exactly the same as the other pattern.

Same as above, from the back, with the crotch seam pulling a bit. A faint decoration can be seen on the pockets, with the line art version of the logo seen on this blog.

Making also went smoothly, and the result was fitting. Very fitting. A big too fitting, and the standard bum adjustment of the back was just enough for what apparently still qualifies as a big bum, so I adjusted the pattern to be able to add a custom amount of ease in a few places.

But at least I had a pair of jeans-shaped trousers that fit!

Except, at 200 g/m² I can’t say that fabric is the proper weight for a pair of trousers, and I may have looked around online1 for some denim, and, well, it’s 2024, so my no-fabric-buy 2023 has not been broken, right?

Let us just say that there may be other jeans-related posts in the near future.


  1. I had already asked years ago for denim at my local fabric shops, but they don’t have the proper, sturdy, type I was looking for.↩︎

https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2024/02/19-jeans_step_one/index.html

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Elena ``of Valhalla'' ha ricondiviso questo.


Since this month, we have the piracy museum/collection in-house. Around 2000 illegal disks and cassette tapes with movies, software, and music. The stories behind brands like Twilight, Crazy Bytes, WinWarez, Braun MTV Charts, and Moviebox are now shared in the music, as well as the hunt from the copyright authority to stop this. It's a piece of culture and fits right in the museum! #HomeComputerMuseum #retro #museum

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