Do me a favor.
Quit making fun of people (of any age but especially kids) who ask genuine questions.
I have to pull questions out of adults now because at some point someone made fun of them for being curious.
It's not embarrassing to learn, you shouldn't feel guilty for thinking of a question and asking an expert.
You should feel happy that you are still curious about the universe.
Make learning a positive experience? Please?
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It is *evident* that the fact that the living room table is covered in bits of cardboard and bookbinding paper means that I'm cleaning up my desktop, right?
As in “making a small chest of drawers to store some of the samplers and small containers of ink that I currently have in a mess on the desktop” :D
The current status is that 3 out of 4 drawers are done, one is nearly done, and the structure to put them in needs to be redone from scratch, because my measurements have been way too optimistic and the drawers don't fit :(
But I've started to put some of the ink samplers in one of the drawers, and those are fitting just fine. Also, *all¹* the colours!
¹ actually just above half of the colours available in that line of ink
È *evidente* che il fatto che il tavolo della sala sia pieno di pezzi di cartone e carta da rilegatoria vuol dire che sto riordinando la scrivania, giusto?
Col metodo lento “farsi una cassettierina in cartonnage per dare un posto a tutte le fialette e piccoli contenitori di inchiostro che al momento sono sparse in modo disordinato sulla scrivania” :D
Lo status attuale è che 3 dei 4 cassetti sono finiti, il quarto è a buon punto, e la struttura in cui metterli è da rifare da capo, dato che sono stata troppo ottimista quando ho progettato le misure e i cassetti non ci stanno :(
Però ho iniziato a mettere un po' di campioni di inchiostro in uno dei cassetti, e quelli sono stati progettati correttamente. Ed inoltre *colori* *tutti¹ i colori*!
¹ in realtà poco più di metà dei colori disponibili per quella linea di inchiostri.
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Unsure if I've ever shared my personal philosophy here, but it goes: "People are going to look, so give them something to fucking look at!"
I developed it when I was younger and visibly goth and queer, possibly even more so than now. People stared but I was always without a doubt the most interesting looking person on that bit of street, so I couldn't fault them for it! And anybody who had issues with it could see just how little I cared to hide.
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If people are going to stare, just wear your favourite weird fabulous thing, the cute eyeshadow, the nice shoes that are comfy. Hold your head up high and walk on like you own the world. You're not the boring person without taste looking on and silently judging, you're the one who is feeling good about themselves and being who you want to be.
They're going to look anyway, make them remember that they looked! 😄
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absolutely. This is why I wear 80s-cut double-breasted jackets, shirts with french cuffs, eye-catching ties, and pocket squares.
People will look at me because of the cane, might as well see some good fashion.
Also, stare back.
@amberage There's a local man here who uses a cane and wears an eye-patch. And yet he's not known for that, those are just details about the appearance of the Man Who Wears Three Piece Suits In Any Weather And Always Looks Fantastic! I wish him all the best, he has beautiful vintage looking coats as well.
People these days will first spot my face mask, or at least do a double take. Then their eyes linger and they see everything else!
@Gulleko My knees hate the pressure from trousers these days, so unless I have the knees literally cut away from jeans I can't wear them. 😅 They're also an absolute bitch to properly pattern and make, so I never got around to it just to slash them up, though they were a very usable garment back when I could wear them. Always in black, of course.
I have home skirts and outside skirts, because who wants to sweep the floors with everything the hem touched when out on walkies? Easier to change out of them, and wear them when going outside again.
@Gulleko I also probably have at least ADHD, but I've solved the issue by letting the vacuum cleaner live in the living room! Whenever I feel like there's too much fabric dust, bits of thread, cat hair, adventurous bits of kitty litter or anything, I can just grab the vacuum cleaner without any further steps to take and it doesn't take that long because I do it that often.
(Let's not talk about the state of my dishes, though...)
Consider me jealous! That level of confidence? Hella rare
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@0xdariaj I don't feel like messing with taking it off and putting it back on, so I just always have one on when I'm somewhere. The easiest place to properly put it on is at home and sitting down! Usually my excursions are not that long anyway (I get tired) so it's not an issue to wear the same mask.
It's just nice to dress nice, too! It's not exactly armour, but it's better for morale to face small difficulties if you also look great. 😆
the world needs more recreational programming.
like, was this the most optimal or elegant way to code this?
no, but it was the most fun to write.
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cause like, yeah, it's good to know how to write optimal code and how to make it elegant and easy to maintain, sure!
but one thing you have to maintain is your brain. If you're constantly driving your programming brain at maximum speed, maximum awareness of all possible caveats and vulnerabilities, always considering "how will I maintain this code in ten years time?" you're going to burn yourself out.
You're associating programming with a high-stress high-attention activity. That's going to make programming something that's categorized in your brain as no fun, never relaxing, never something you do just cause it would be interesting... you're going to start dreading it, even just a little. "oh well, let's get this over with."
That's not a good way to think about it in the long run.
we often say that programming is more an art than a science, but we need to treat it like one too.
Sometimes you need to paint a sunset not because someone paid you to paint a sunset, but because it'd be fun to paint a sunset.
clacke: exhausted pixie dream boy 🇸🇪🇭🇰💙💛 likes this.
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Dear lazyverse, I've just read blog.prosody.im/great-invitati… and prosody.im/doc/modules/mod_inv… and I don't understand one thing: can this be used to generate an invite for an user that already exists and has been using the account for a while, but needs to reconfigure an xmpp client on a new phone?
of course they don't know their password, but I would have to reset it from prosodyctl anyway.
#xmpp
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Adding a new device via invitation is not currently a thing. Password resets links (which work almost the same as invitations) are.
Generate a password reset link with this command:
'prosodyctl mod_invites example.com --reset username'
I haven't extensively tested it with clients or invite UIs beyond Snikket, though. Feedback welcome 🙂
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@mattj fosstodon.org/@snikket_im/1122…
@shuro Snikket is XMPP for people who don't know what #XMPP is 🙂If you're happy with Conversations, continue using it! Snikket is more limited because it focuses on a specific use case.
If you want an easy-to-use messaging solution for a group of people (e.g. family, friends, clubs), plus companion apps and easy onboarding without forcing people to learn what a "XEP" is, then Snikket is here for you: snikket.org/start/
We just want XMPP to reach beyond the tech crowd.
Get Started
Snikket is a fully open-source personal messaging server that allows groups of people such as family, friends, clubs and small organisations to have their own private communication space.Snikket Chat
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Girl Genius has a new kickstarter out, to print the next volume
kickstarter.com/projects/girlg…
for those few who don't know, it's a great steampunkish #comic that has been running for years and is published online at girlgeniusonline.com/ and then on paper, funded via kickstarter one volume at a time.
And usually there would be no need to promote them or anything, they have enough devoted followers that they fund on first day, but this time they have a pretty high stretch goal to be able to print *two* volumes at the same time, and it would be really, really nice if they did manage it!
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È aperto il nuovo kickstarter di Girl Genius, per stampare il prossimo volume
kickstarter.com/projects/girlg…
per quei pochi che non lo conoscono, è un #fumetto steampunk che va avanti da anni, pubblicato online su girlgeniusonline.com/ e poi su carta, un volume per volta finanziato su kickstarter.
Di solito non ci sarebbe il minimo bisogno di fargli pubblicità: hanno abbastanza lettori fedeli da riuscire a finanziare la stampa il primo giorno, ma stavolta hanno aggiunto uno stretch goal per riuscire a stampare *due* volumi allo stesso giro, e non sarebbe per niente male se ce la facessero!
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The case for #Pyra. is. done.
It could have been neater, and maybe tomorrow or next week I'll unpick the binding on the raw edges and sew it again, because it's ugly, but the size is just right and it works.
Only took 3 attempts to get to the right amount of ease :)
There will be pictures (and a blog post). Not today :D
La custodia per #Pyra è finita.
Avrei potuto cucirla meglio, e magari domani o settimana prossima scucirò il nastro dai margini di cucitura e lo ricucirò, perché quello è attaccato proprio male, ma le misure sono finalmente precise e funziona.
Ci son voluti solo 3 tentativi per sistemare le misure :)
Ci saranno foto (e un post sul blog). Non oggi. :D
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I just want to express my appreciation for content warnings here. I was browsing elsewhere and saw a very distressing story which upset me and my mind struggles to move on from. It wouldn't have happened here as it would have been hidden by a content warning that I wouldn't have clicked on.
Thank you to you all here 💜
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Leatherfolk who speak non-English languages, I wanna hear about how you do Dom/sub titles ("Sir", "boy", etc), diminutives, formality, that sort of thing.
I've spoken to quite a few people who say they switch to English for this, but I feel like there are probably neat cultural/grammatical options in other languages.
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Visto che ci siamo illusi che qui (fediverso generico) la convivenza sarebbe stata...migliore? Dotata di più mezzi di interazione? Boh?, comunque ho un solo consiglio per vojo:
NEL DUBBIO, BLOCCATE.
- non so se quest* mi sta sul cazzo oppure no, eccomunque questa cosa mi genera fastidio? BLOCCO
- ma che davero cos* ha fatto quella battuta lì, maddai? apperò BLOCCO
- mi sono vagamente rott* il cazzo di determinate tematiche che vengono tirate fuori sempre dalle stesse persone? Ma BLOCCO
ed altri incredibili varianti quasi infinite.
Ascoltate la zia, usateli il "silenzia" e il "blocca".
*pat-patta tutti sul testino collettivamente* #pubblicitàprogresso #mediasetperilsociale #forsenontuttisannoche #quesitoconlasusi
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VIEWS took part in this year’s Cambridge Festival, a showcase of research happening across the University of Cambridge. The project team has been together for several months now, so the Festi…The VIEWS project
I've found out what the issue with the #tea shop was: they had to restore the website from backups and some user got stuck in the process.
I've now procured more tea (by preparing a list on the website, printing it out and going to the shop. yes, it's close enough that I could just go there without visiting the website. I could.)
@Naomi P do you want some tea? I'm making an herbal one, since here it's evening, but it can turn into whatever you want during the internet trip :)
Ho scoperto qual'era il problema col sito del negozio di té: hanno dovuto recuperare il sito da backup e qualche utente è rimasto incastrato nel processo.
Ho procurato del té (preparando un elenco sul sito, stampandolo e andando al negozio. sì, è abbastanza vicino da poterci andare anche senza visitare il sito. volendo.)
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#sewing update
the corded petticoat is done! And today I expect to finish the hem on the chemise (I'm almost halfway through it), so there will be some cutting fabric time this afternoon, and that may be either the lining for the #AugustaStays or the cartridge pleated skirt.
Aggiornamento sul #cucito
La sottogonna cordonata è finita! E oggi mi aspetto di finire l'orlo della sottoveste (sono quasi a metà), quindi oggi pomeriggio taglierò della stoffa, o la fodera per le Augusta Stays, o la gonna anni 40.
rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua reshared this.
aaand the chemise is also finished!
and then I just didn't have the energy to do anything that required concentration like cutting fabric, so I just did a bit of lucet
(the 3 metre piece has been finished yesterday, now I've started a 1 metre piece for the front lacing)
e ho finito anche la sottogonna!
e poi non avevo le forze per fare qualunque cosa che richiedesse attenzione come tagliare stoffa, quindi ho fatto solo un po' di cordino a lucet.
(il pezzo da tre metri è stato finito ieri, adesso ne ho iniziato uno da un metro per l'allacciatura davanti)
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Getting to the laundry place 5 minutes before it closed on Saturday morning to give them 4 heavy-ish carpets to wash (while they were still on the car rather than having to walk there while carrying them later). done.
(we called when we got on the car, to ask whether it was ok, and the owner of the place knows us well enough that there wasn't any time consuming procedure, we just dumped everything in there and then she will deal with them when she opens next week. but still, it felt wrong.)
Entrare in tintoria 5 minuti prima della chiusura al sabato mattina per lasciare 4 tappeti pesantini da lavare (già che li avevamo in macchina, anziché doverli portare a piedi un altro giorno). fatto.
(abbiamo chiamato quando siamo saliti in auto per chiedere se facevamo in tempo, e la titolare ci conosce abbastanza bene per cui non ha dovuto perderci tempo, abbiamo solo scaricato tutto quanto e ci penserà quando apre settimana prossima. però dava una sensazione di sbagliato.)
(e non so perché, ma mi sono venuti in mente @Yaku 🐗 e @Rapita dagli alieni )
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@Rapita dagli alieni @Yaku 🐗 però da voi posso presentarmi spazientita 5 minuti prima dell'apertura, anziché 5 minuti prima della chiusura?
che almeno poi ho tempo di fare due chiacchere con voi :D
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Come alla posta il primo del mese (qui a giugno arrivano un po' prima delle 6 che è già chiaro).
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Andrew (Television Executive), Joost van Baal-Ilić, Vagrant Cascadian, Elena ``of Valhalla'', rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua e Enrico Zini reshared this.
#sewing update
The cording on the petticoat has been completed, I'm now doing the vertical seams (hopefully today), and then I have to gather or pleat or something the top and it's done.
I'm cutting a second attempt at the pyra case: I've cut almost everything, but I've just misplaced one of the fabrics I want to use. The inventory says it's in the box I've been looking for it.
I've printed almost all of the hexbin Standard Compliant pattern weights, I've cut enough felt for all of them (I think, I didn't exactly *count*), and I've been using the first one and it works nicely. It's a good excuse to buy new washers the next time I'm at the shop, right?
Related: if you have recommendations for places in Europe that print small amounts of hexagonal #stickers and don't require me to provide a multi layer PDF file (or a tutorial on how to make those with inkscape or other Free Software) I'd be happy to hear about them :)
And thanks to a couple of movie nights¹ at my mother's I'm close to the 3 meters of lucet cord I plan to use for the back of my Augusta Stays. That I still need to cut lining for, why do you ask?
¹ 17:30 - 19:30 or so counts as night, if you're watching a movie, right? :D
Aggiornamento sul #cucito.
Le cordonature della sottogonna sono finite, sto facendo le cuciture verticali (che spero di finire oggi), poi devo arricciare o piegare la vita ed è finita.
Sto tagliando i pezzi per un secondo tentativo di custodia per Pyra: ho quasi finito ma non trovo più una delle stoffe che volevo usare. L'inventario dice che è nella scatola dove lo stavo cercando.
Ho stampato quasi tutti i pesi per cartamodelli rispettosi dello Standard hexbin, ho tagliato abbastanza feltro (credo. ho tagliato senza contare) e ho iniziato ad usare il primo che è già finito, e funziona decisamente bene. È una buona scusa per comprare delle altre rondelle la prossima volta che passo dal Brico, vero?
Correlato: se avete dei consigli per dei posti che stampino adesivi esagonali senza aspettarsi un file PDF multilayer (o un tutorial per farli con Inkscape o con altro Softare Libero) sono tutta orecchie :)
E grazie ad un paio di serate¹ cinema da mia madre ho quasi finito di fare 3 metri di cordino lucet che ho intenzione di usare per le Augusta Stays. Per le quali non ho ancora tagliato la fodera, ovviamente.
¹ se si sta guardando un film, 17:30 - 19:30 o giù di lì conta come serata, vero? :D
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it had fallen to the bottom of the box
(I keep fabric vertically in the box so that I can see all of it at a glance, but this one was especially slippery)
era caduta sul fondo della scatola
(ripongo la stoffa verticalmente nella scatola in modo da riuscire a vedere tutti i contenuti a colpo d'occhio, ma questa era particolarmente scivolosa)
@Kermode nope, too little time for work that requires active concentration
sewing, and especially handsewing are more compatible with those times when the brain wants to switch off :)
Dear Debianites This morning I decided to just start writing Bits from DPL and send whatever I have by 18:00 local time. Here it is, barely proof read, along with all it's warts and grammar mistakes! It's slightly long and doesn't contain...Debian Project
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@debacle @valhalla I think it's almost always a good idea to define each acronym the first time it is used, in any kind of document.
In this case, bits.debian.org/2024/04/bits-f… is a fairly long text with "DPL" mentioned more than 20 times. Writing it out the first time would not take much space, and would help make the text a little bit more welcoming to newcomers.
Dear Debianites This morning I decided to just start writing Bits from DPL and send whatever I have by 18:00 local time. Here it is, barely proof read, along with all it's warts and grammar mistakes! It's slightly long and doesn't contain...Debian Project
Hi from the Press Team! You are correct, sometimes we edit things and sometimes we do not, oft is is essential that the speaker speaks as intended and our edits would change the flow of the intention, so we leave them in.
Recently we are addressing this with a few policy changes on editing articles or submissions for publication, we of course invite you to join us: wiki.debian.org/Teams/Publicit…
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If #xz were a Go or Rust dependency, you wouldn’t have a single copy of xz library on your system, but many, #xzbackdoor hidden in every executable that uses it. Distros would have to rebuild all packages using that lib (not just the lib itself), which could take days or weeks, and users would have to update them all, downloading tens or hundreds of megabytes.
If you install binaries directly from vendors/devs, it’s even worse – you wouldn’t even know which ones are affected and you’d (1/3)
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be at the mercy of the devs to provide the update. Not a group of active maintainers behind the distro, but many individual devs, some of whom lack the time or motivation and sustainability. The same goes for Docker containers, Flatpak and similar!
This is called static linking or bundling. Instead of rebuilding and updating a single shared library, you have to rebuild and update every single thing that links/bundles it. In the case of static linking, you usually can’t even tell which (2/3)
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Elena ``of Valhalla'' e coucouf ⏚ reshared this.
libraries it’s linked with!
Now do you see the value of #Linux distros and dynamic linking? Please, stop this insane “single binary” mantra and work with distros, not against them.
If #rustlang wants to replace C, devs need to acknowledge this and start providing dynamically linkable libraries with stable ABI. (3/3)
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Security vulnerabilities of Golang GO : List of vulnerabilities affecting any version of this productwww.cvedetails.com
@Aleksandra Fedorova :fedora: @ITwrx @Neal Gompa (ニール・ゴンパ) :fedora: @kravietz 🦇 @Jakub Jirutka 🇪🇺🇺🇦 and even for single person projects, having a packager in each main distribution that isn't the upstream developer is a big plus, as it provides a minimum of oversight and redundancy.
Not much, especially when said maintainer(s) are overworked and demoralized, but still better than nothing.
Yes, that is an important point too.
When we say co-maintainer, we often implicitly assume that it should be an equally or comparably skilled person doing the same tasks.
And then we stop at a thought on how hard it is to find a duplicate.
While it doesn't have to be.
There is plenty of room for a developer to collaborate with a tester, or a packager or a build engineer, or a documentation writer.
It often can be healthier too.
@ITwrx @Conan_Kudo @kravietz @jakub
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I'm taking a break from historical #sewing to make myself a case for the Pyra¹ that I've just received (YAY!).
Which means working with technical materials.
Which means that two needles have already been broken, and I've just decided to sew the raw edge binding by hand, even if I know it will be painful, because I don't want to deal with another fiddly seam by machine.
¹ handheld gaming console with a full keyboard designed by retrogaming enthusiasts.
Sto facendo una pausa nel #cucito storico per fare una custodia per la Pyra¹ che mi è appena arrivata (YAY!).
Il che comporta lavorare coi materiali tecnici.
Il che comporta l'aver già rotto due aghi e ho appena deciso di ricoprire a mano i margini di taglio, anche se so che cucire a mano qui sopra sarà una sofferenza, perché non ho voglia di fare un altra cucitura incasinata a macchina.
¹ console da gioco portatile con una tastiera completa progettata da appassionati di retrogaming.
rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua reshared this.
Am I the only one who finds using spray starch almost as fun as using spray paint?
(yes, one day I will try real starch)
(yes, one day I will be ironing and starching my shirts more than an hour before I need to wear them)
(today is not that day)
rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua reshared this.
sono l'unica che trova usare l'appretto in bomboletta divertente quasi quanto usare le bombolette di colore?
(sì, un giorno o l'altro proverò ad inamidare con l'amido)
(sì, un giorno o l'altro starò stirando ed inamidando le mie camicie con più di un'ora di anticipo rispetto a quando le devo indossare)
(oggi non è quel giorno)
rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua reshared this.
@rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua non so, il problema è che abito in collina, non nelle zone da risaia, credo che darò la priorit๠al piantare il mio lino, filarlo e tesserlo, prima di pensare a produrmi il mio amido.
Però potrei fare quello di patate, anche se credo che ingiallisca un po'.
¹ quello richiede “avere un posto dove piantare il lino”, e ancora sono ben lontana dall'averlo. Diciamo che non è in cima alla lista :D
My heart goes out to xz. A single maintainer, who was clearly in a rough place with mental health, screaming out to the world for some help and additional contributions, and somebody shows up wanting to help. Could you imagine how happy that maintainer was? They were no longer alone.
And it turns out the only reason somebody wanted to help them was nefarious. I can’t imagine how they feel right now as everyone is blaming them. I hope they’re ok.
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So, Philipp Kern dropped by asking if we could do some #ReproducibleBuilds verifications of recent Debian Security updates, given, well the whole #xz mess... and that our build infrastructure may have run compromised code at some point...
So I did a quick pass at a handful of updates and everything verified ok so far, though I skipped some of the probably more juicy targets such as chromium and firefox:
lists.reproducible-builds.org/…
Debian is reproducible enough to at least try this sort of thing!
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Asking people who use #screenReaders: what is the best way to add #AltText to a QR-Code? Are the screen readers clever enough to recognise it as such and offer to read the contents or follow the link? Does putting the content of the QR-Code in the alt text help? or would it make it worse, especially if it is an URL?
boosts are welcome
(the whole point of the post that prompted this question was posting a QR-Code, so no, I couldn't have just posted the URL)
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#sewing update? sewing update!
I suspect that the body of the shift is a bit too wide at the top, but I haven't tried it on yet to find out. It's only missing a hem at the bottom, and then it's done, however (and I'm sure I can adjust the width so that it is wearable anyway).
I haven't done anything on it (nor on the #AugustaStays), however, because I've spent most of my sewing time on the corded petticoat, because *I want to know* whether it will work and how it will look.
And I'm happy to report that I've just finished the next to last section of cording, only 3 more 3-metre-long seams and then I can finally start on the assembly.
aggiornamento sul #cucito? aggiornamento sul cucito!
Sospetto che la sottoveste sia un po' troppo larga sul busto, ma non l'ho ancora provata per esserne sicura. Manca solo l'orlo in basso, e poi sarebbe finita (e ho fiducia del fatto di poter sistemare in qualche modo la circonferenza in modo da poterla indossare comunque).
Però è un po' che la ignoro (così come sto ignorando le Augusta Staus), perché la maggior parte del mio tempo-cucito in questi giorni è stato passato sulla sottogonna cordonata, perché *voglio sapere* se funziona e che aspetto ha.
E sono felice di annunciare che ho appena finito la penultima sezione di cordonature, mi mancano solo 3 cuciture da 3 metri l'una, e poi posso finalmente iniziare la costruzione.
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TFW you wake up in the morning, try to login on your computer and the h key on your keuboard doesn't work.
so you connect a spare keyboard (cheap gaming keyboard with blue keys, way too noisy for regular use) to a free USB port, login, open a few things and then try to write again with your keyboard, and it works.
disconnect the spare, start having breakfast, post a few things on the fediverse, now the s and the f keys no longer work.
Connect the spare, use it for a while, try the original, it works. And then it stops.
I'm wondering whether I should move elsewhere my keyboard and just resign myself to use the spare today.
(I know what caused the issues, there may have been an accident in the weekend, and a replacement has already been ordered and may even be delivered today or tomorrow, and then there will be time to try and fix the original one.)
TFW ti svegli alla mattina, cerchi di fare login sul computer e il tasto h non funziona.
quindi attacchi la tastiera di scorta (una da gaming economica, con tasti blu che sono troppo rumorosi per l'uso regolare) ad una porta USB libera, fai login, apri un po' di cose, provi a scrivere di nuovo con la tua tastiera e funziona.
stacchi quella di scorta, inizi a fare colazione, postare sul fediverso, e smettono di funzionare i tasti s e f.
Riattacchi quella di scorta, la usi per un po', riprovi l'originale, funzona. E poi smette di funzionare.
Mi chiedo se sia il caso di staccare l'originale e per oggi rassegnarmi ad usare quella di scorta.
(So cosa causa il problea, nel weekend potrebbe esserci stato un piccolo incidente, ed è già stata ordinata una nuova tastiera che potrebbe essere consegnata oggi o domani, e poi ci sarà tempo per provare a far rifunzionare l'originale.)
@Kermode it was hot water that had been used to clean a jar of jam¹, but basically the same thing, except with more sugar.
Not that I would ever do anything like that to my keyboard!
¹ as in: when there is just a bit of jam left I don't bother with removing it with a spoon, I just pour boiling water in it, let it dissolve and then drink the result as if it was an herbal tea.
Ricevo, e credo che sia utile per un po' di vittime di #trenord qui sul fediverso
prealpina.it/pages/lombardia-t…
“La norma nel prevedere la necessità di richiesta dell’abbonato reindirizza la misura compensativa del disagio a chi effettivamente lo ha subito, diversamente da quanto accadeva con il vecchio bonus.”
che credo voglia dire, più o meno “speriamo che la maggior parte dei pendolari si dimentichino di chiederlo e/o non vengano a sapere di doverlo chiedere”
se ho ben capito le istruzioni su come fare la richiesta sono già su regione.lombardia.it/wps/porta…
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@LaVi 🕊️📚🐈 @Fabio mi pareva tempo fa di aver trovato su uno dei siti istituzionali (trenord o regione) che i treni soppressi contino uguali ai treni con più di 30 minuti di ritardo, ma adesso non ho il link sottomano (e non so se le nuove regole siano cambiate).
Comunque c'è il fatto che quei dati non dicono che i treni in ritardo sono ovviamente soprattutto in ora di punta (anche per ragioni ragionevoli, tutto sommato), e che quindi impattano molte più persone rispetto ai treni in orario alle 10 di mattina o alle 8 di sera.
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First working prototype of the #CardboardComputer, calculating the Answer to Life, the Universe, and Everything.
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Posted on March 23, 2024
Tags: madeof:atoms, craft:cooking, craft:baking, craft:bread
Yesterday I had planned a pan sbagliato for today, but I also had quite a bit of sourdough to deal with, so instead of mixing a bit of of dry yeast at 18:00 and mixing it with some additional flour and water at 21:00, at around maybe 20:00 I substituted:
Then I briefly woke up in the middle of the night and poured the dough on the tray at that time instead of having to wake up before 8:00 in the morning.
Everything else was done as in the original recipe.
The firm sourdough is feeded regularly with the same weight of flour and half the weight of water.
Will. do. again.
It's not even April, and I've brushed and steamed the wool skirt I've worn all winter, and mended the small bit that needed mending, and it's ready to be put away for the warm season.
Last year I think I postponed doing it until June or even July.
I'm counting this as a huge success :)
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Non è ancora aprile, e ho spazzolato e stirato col vapore la gonna di lana che ho indossato per tutto l'inverno, e fatto la piccola riparazione che andava fatta, ed è pronta da mettere via per la stagione calda.
L'anno scorso credo di averlo procrastinato fino a giugno o luglio.
Direi che quello di quest'anno è un successo enorme :)
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@Lars Wirzenius if I had a garment steamer I would use that, but in reality I just used my regular seam iron and just pressed the extra steam button a lot while going over the garment :)
definitely nothing fancy :)
(it helped that the skirt is easy to lay flat (in sections) on the ironing board, for something like a jacket I suspect that a steamer would be much more practical)
@Lars Wirzenius yeah, it helps, mostly because you can wrap the thing around it, and only have one layer under the iron.
Mine is just a hand-me-down that isn't even 100% stable, but it already makes a difference.
And then there are the taylor's ham and sausage that I made for pressing while sewing, but sometimes they get used also for ironing sleeves and other small or curvy bits: I don't know if they're worth having if somebody does not sew, but they can help.
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#trenord, ma prima che fossero semre in ritardo :D
Nel 1879 venne attivata la ferrovia Milano-Saronno, che poi è diventata la "dorsale" della rete delle Ferrovie Nord MilanoRoberto Morandi (Vareseweb Srl)
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@Panormus per il 1879 ho il completo da trekking che ho indossato¹ quando abbiamo fatto la giornata su trenord con @LaVi 🕊️📚🐈 :D
(ok, tecnicamente mi manca anora un cappello, ma sono molto più avanti di quanto non fossi con il 1700 :D )
¹ (e che sto indossando giusto giusto in questi giorni quando esco di casa)
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I’ll let you in on a secret: I love sporadically updated weblogs. I subscribe to over 1200 feeds and most of them are sporadic or even technically “inactive”. Months often pass between updates
It means that every post published was important to the writer
Back in the days of snail mail, letters that began with “It’s been a while since I last wrote to you” were the ones people cherished the most
You don’t need to post every day or even every week to have a blog that matters
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People are replying to this post with links to their own sporadically-updated blogs...
Which is great! Keep 'em coming 🙂
Can't promise that I'll subscribe to any of them, but I'll definitely have a look at each when I have the time
And hopefully others will click through and have a look as well.
Your periodical reminder that all clothing is hand made by humans, usually underpaid!
Polyester doesn't breathe and sheds microplastics when manufactured, worn and washed!
Cotton farming takes immense amounts of water and pesticides!
Viscose can be made from recycled fibres & waste cellulose, but it's a fairly toxic process!
Linen is more ecological to grow but expensive!
"But what do I wear then, Sini?"
The garments you already own, until they fall apart or someone else needs them!
#Sustainability #FastFashion #WorkersRights
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Laundry tips and opinions which were requested:
Using fabric softener will make cotton feel clammy and greasy, and give it a mildewy smell. Fabric conditioning helps with staticky plastic fibres but isn't necessary for natural fibres! Just wash without. Never put it on towels, it stops their absorption powers. You can use a little bit of vinegar instead of fabric softener, it will have a mild smell when wet, dries odourless.
Line drying is less wear on clothes than dryer but live your life if you have no place to dry them!
Bedding needs to be washed super hot occasionally! Towels, too!
If your shirts smell terrible because you've been sweating into them, soak them in the sink with a cup of vinegar in room temperature water, rinse, wash normally. This kills a lot of mildew and helps break apart organic residue.
Liquid laundry detergent is silly! Just get detergent in powder form, you're spared the plastic bottles and no heavy liquids are ferried around.
Soap nuts are great if you're allergic to everything but soap nuts. They're not even nuts and are compostable!
A lot of the washing instructions are LIES. You can literally boil 100% cotton and it's fine! You'd be amazed how much dry clean only is not! Polyester and cotton will be just dandy in 60 Celsius - the manufacturers play it safe because some dyes fade in hotter temps. Cheaply made clothes may shrink, but if it's stinky, take the risk!
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@emery Well, I will suggest Charlie’s Soap, which doesn’t make anyone in my family break out in a rash. It’s worked well enough for us, but we don’t have any specific exercise clothes, so I can’t speak to that.
I try to make a point of buying multiple bags when it’s on sale, but I can’t always count on that.
I'm mad about the Tide free and Gentle too. We switched to 'Ingredients Matter' laundry soap. But it is soap and not detergent, so every couple of loads we use the liquid free and gentle.
We also usually wash in cold so we have to dissolve the soap in hot water and add it to the wet clothes.
Re: stink, it's also worth periodically cleaning your washing machine - you can get cleaners that run through most of the mechanism, though discouraging mould and mildew on seals is a constant battle and why I hate front loaders. (Most mould killers - including stuff like white vinegar - will ruin the rubber of the seals, so it's hard to completely kill. You can use cloths or paper towel to soak up any excess water after you've used the machine so it dries faster, but then you have to remember to remove them...)
I used to clean mine every 6 months, or after washing anything particularly badly soiled or stinky.
Ah, yeah, I'm in a city with extremely hard water so that's probably why it's recommended here to do it more often.
I don't know if it's part of older washing machines, but I've never had a machine that had a hot setting higher than 60C. (I've also never had a brand new washing machine though.)
@Sini Tuulia @Mre. Dartigen [maker mode] mine also goes up to 90°C (specifically the cotton cycle goes 60° 50° 40° 30° 20° -- 90° — I suspect that they don't want you to really use the 90° too often :D )
Usually I don't use it on clothing, but I do a 90° empty cycle every now and then to clean the washing machine
@dartigen All washing machines I’ve had in Japan haven’t heated the water at all. Sometimes there’s been a hot water pipe that you can switch to and in that case you set the temperature on the the water boiler. Great for wool, but not so energy efficient to rinse in warm water for all other clothes. They’ve all been top loaders.
Front loaders have started to be popular in Japan as well, but if you just rent a less than a year each time you can’t invest in your own washing machine.
@dartigen All washing machines I’ve owned or used in Sweden have gone up to 90 or 95, but the washing machines I’ve used in Japan had a rating of maybe 50-60, despite not having a heating element.
So in addition to being able to produce the heat, the parts in the machine have to tolerate the heat, and not melt, deform, or age quickly when subjected to almost boiling water.
@ahltorp Not to mention that cold water won't remove greasy residue or stains...
There seems to be the thought that the soap is enough to kill everything, but it just doesn't.
@tefferbear We don't have that here, so I looked up what's in it: "The formulation is a combination of ingredients, the key ingredient being sodium percarbonate, sodium carbonate, surfactants and polymer."
So it's Super Soda, which definitely sounds like it works! You can use all kinds of household soda concoctions on laundry and even household cleaning.
It's been a while since I knit or did crochet, but there's at least a couple of kinds of 100% wool that has been felted and treated in such a way that the fibres become harder, denser and more durable. "Superwash" or something, because they can also be machine washed after without shrinking. Will wear down eventually, of course, but. 🤔
I've handled some sheep wool yarn with linen, hemp, ramie, alpaca, nettle and/or silk mixed in, which apparently makes the yarn more abrasion resistant, but never worked with them! I know my mother has a wool & nettle jumper that is close to 20 years old and is in perfect condition and feels only slightly rougher and squished together than "normal" wool.
Worth mentioning is that you rarely wash woollen things, so they shed a lot less microplastics into the ecosystem even if there is polyester or acrylic in them!
@marion_grau
occasionally i have found 100% wool socks which were commercially made - in australia the ones from aldi are awesome. i have darned the heel before wearing them so they will last.
wool is great insulation for sheep because it contracts when wet - i chuck socks in the washing machine (they are half dry after spin cycle) then i stretch them before allowing them to dry on a line or clothes horse.
woollen jumpers/cardigans i rinse quickly in luke warm water with “wool mix” - i don’t know if this is a universal product - wool won’t shrink unless it is left wet or in water, or in water that is too hot. spin dry in washing machine, or wring gently in a towel if you live somewhere wet/cold
To make wool mix:
1/2 glass soap flakes or grated soap
1 glass hot water
1/2 glass methylated spirits (aka denatured alcohol)
1 tablespoon eucalyptus oil
Place all the ingredients in a large jar and shake well.
(Warning: keep wool mix out of reach of children as metho and eucalyptus oil are toxic.)
if i have any kind of stain i dab some wool mix on the spot and leave garment til wash day. over the years i’ve discovered this is great stuff for grease spots - (a friend once spilled olive oil in a silk blouse and we saved the garment with eucalyptus oil before the olive oil dried)
Marseille soap rubbed directly on just the spot, gently wetted, and then rinsed out with cold water and pressed dry with a towel is what I've been taught to do even the most delicate materials, if you don't have to or want to wash the entire thing!
(Savon de Marseille is like Castile soap, not a brand but rather a type: the traditional ones are made from 100% olive oil. A block of any old bar soap will be effective but perhaps not as gentle.)
interesting - i have never heard of this - had a quick search online and there’s nothing local, pure, cheap, easy to buy etc otherwise i would try it.
but i’ll be looking for it 💐
Over here you can just pick up at least one brand of Marseille soap in whatever slightly larger supermarket, and all the hippie shops usually have some three different varieties! It's very very traditional for cleaning here, people use it for everything and even "normal" people will just have a cheaper block of it at home, since it costs almost nothing per use and keeps for a decade. 😄
Edit: everything being yourself, your rugs, your laundry, your dog, your baby, your sauna, your dishes in a pinch if there's nothing else and you're at the summer cottage
@kleypack Short answer, it can be, but shouldn't significantly be.
Long answer: Liquid detergent for white laundry usually only contains optical brighteners, which is blue pigment to make the white fabric look less yellowed. Powder detergent for whites contains an oxidiser, which gradually physically bleaches the fabric back to a crisp white. This does oxidise the fabric a little bit. 😄 Which will damage it somewhat! But on the other hand it also sanitises it as plenty of microbes do not enjoy being minutely bleached. The laundry does smell fresher and I haven't noticed any wear on any of my stuff.
Powder detergent for coloured laundry does not contain the whitening agent. The ingredients themselves vary across them, but it's sodium laureth sulfate, soap and enzymatic cleaners for the most part, in both liquid and powder.
I feel like I have to use not even half of the recommended dose of powder versus the full amount of liquid for the laundry to *feel* clean. Your mileage may vary!
ah this is amazing, thank you! I only used mixed detergent anyway, have never bought the detergent just for whites (too much of my whites are more ecru or have other colors as well). Also totally agree about the amount needed, the poweder goes a long way.
Guess I can safely go back to powder. Appreciate the thorough answer! 😊
@FiddleSix I'm genuinely glad you asked! It's most to do with the water temperature and the amount of agitation needed.
Cotton in general washes better when the water is hot and when there's a bunch of agitation, so a longer program. (On my machine the suggested program is 2h 20min at 60C, for example.) This is fine. Spin cycle it as harsh as you want to, too, as a plant fibre it soaks up a lot of liquid and dries slowly.
But when you wash synthetics, often containing elasthane and spandex etc, those do degrade very fast when the water is hot and there is a lot of agitation. Hot and long also leads to more microplastic shedding, I'm fairly sure! You may also want to use a different detergent for the two, or different amounts. They also dry faster, so less spinning required, less wear on the clothing and washing machine, and less energy expended.
@Willow Oh yes, it's basically my nemesis. It depends on how much is on there, and what it smells like, sometimes the only thing that works is washing it 5-12 times and suffering.
But! I've found that Marseille soap works pretty well. (It's a type of traditional olive oil based block soap. As soap as you can get, really. I assume Castile soap works similarly.)
First I'll reaaaaaaally lather the garments in the sink with the soap and some comfortably warm water, mostly rinse that off, lather again, rinse it again... You can sort of tell when gunk stops coming off, when it feels less slippery, or the smell changes?
Then you just need to rinse it really really well, because bar soap isn't super good inside a washing machine in large quantities, though a little doesn't hurt. Put in like double the detergent you'd usually use, wash normally.
If that didn't do it, or it feels fine but smells bad, wash it with a cup of table vinegar, or 3 tablespoons of white vinegar.
@meena Yes!
The smell is either mildew and/or bacteria, both of which thrive on the wet human matter left on the textiles and the fibres themselves.
Depending on how long it's been and how much has grown, you might be able to get away with putting it to air out and dry in bright sunlight: UV radiation kills a lot of microbes and ozone breaks apart the organic compounds that produce the smell.
If it's been a *while* or the laundry has been left wet and smelly enough times for it to permeate the seams etc., the simplest option is to wash it very hot - 60C and up, preferably 70C. (140F to 158F)
These temps kill most microbial life. Though bacteria starts going at lower temperatures mildew, mould, yeasts take hotter. The detergent washes the broken down organic compounds away.
If it can't be washed hot, there's always acid or alkaline/base! Soaking it in a white vinegar solution (a cup per bucket) or with soda or borax (half a cup in a bucket? Somebody else might know). I just use vinegar since it's technically safe to eat. 😄
You can also just pour two cups of table vinegar in the washing machine and wash it all cold if you don't want to mess around with a bucket or the sink. And then wash it another time with normal temperature and detergent.
we wash everything at 40°C, everything hygiene-related (bedsheets, underwear, towels, etc.) at 60°C. I was despairing over "30°C gentle machine wash, no tumble dry, careful dry cleaning only" clothes just earlier today, too: 97% cotton, 3% elasthane chinos that were labelled as 30°C, no tumble drying, and loads of them in all sorts of colours, even "basically the natural colour of cotton" off-white.
I had half a mind to buy them, throw them in at 40°C and tumble dry, and see what comes out, but I couldn't afford sinking that money down the drain if it does damage them.
@amberage Yeaaaaah, my bullshit senses are tingling with the "30C only" label on plant fibres at the best of times. At the very least it should take 40C without issue! There's no good reason why cotton (+elasthane) shouldn't withstand 60C! If they cut corners and didn't prewash and thus pre-shrink the fabric, it can shrink, but this really shouldn't be an issue.
I read somewhere that some percentage of human yeasts survive the 40C wash and may give you foot problems, so you should probably chuck socks into the hotter wash sometimes, too. 🤔
@4d3fect Oh yes, makes sense! I knew there had to be some compound to make the liquid shelf stable for years on end, so the antifungal makes sense even if it's been so long I had no memory of seeing one on the bottle.
I buy a cheap generic fragrance free powder that has been approved by the Finnish Allergy & Asthma Association so it's pretty stripped down of anything that doesn't need to be there! Dissolving in warm water is probably a good step, I tend to administer it straight onto the drum because it tends to gum up the dispenser thingy, and the hot water will hit it right away anyway.
@urbanfoxe You might not, unless they're white! The slight acidity, oiliness and saltiness of sweat tends to create stains in coloured fabric by changing the actual composition or amount of dye in the fabric, and it's fairly impossible to change it back...
If on white fabric, the yellowing is due to all the various things and you can bleach it out with some effort. 🤔 A small bottle of stain remover was less anxiety inducing to handle than a big bottle of bleach, though.
When using deodorant with aluminium the salts tend to react with the dyes and oxidise, I once got weird dark grey green stains on a light blue shirt! Never came off, no matter what I did.
Not me questioning why only some of my cotton stuff smells like mildew, when it's been washed, line dried and ironed and it's only been a week or two. Can we undo the fabric softener damage or will they forever smell like that? I put satchels of baking soda in strategic places to hopefully help.
I'd also like to switch to powder, but when we used it before, it'd leave white residue. Not sure whether the temperature is the problem, and we also have very hard water.
@QueerAndFunny If you're talking about the laundry itself smelling bad, that's likely mildew and can be killed with hot, UV radiation and vinegar. If the moisture in the air makes the room (wall materials, curtains, textiles, chair stuffing, dust) smell bad, that's slightly helped by good ventilation. Humid things release more olfactory components than entirely dry things (deeply simplified).
If you mean the smell of laundry, which is the volatile organic compounds from residue detergent, just wet plant fibres in general, and the tiny amounts of human smell left on clothes if there's any skin oils or sweat still on there? Well, if it's truly clean and not too much detergent has been used, not really, I don't. 😅 I do detect the smell of drying laundry whenever I dry it myself, and just crank the air purifier up if it bothers me. But I'll also know by scent when it's dry enough to maybe put away! If you use laundry vinegar for the rinse cycle, you can make the indoors smell like vinegar...
@EliJquilting I don't know if that's true? For bacteria and viruses, as far as I recall, the killing action is both in the soap removing the lipid shell of the microbe (thus breaking it's cellular integrity and letting it dry out quicker) and in just simply letting the surface tension of the water lessen, allowing the agitation and the water to mechanically rinse all the things off the fibres... That, and the heat! If you wash things hot (50C and up) even just plain water will kill bacteria but be less effective in washing off everything they live on, and much mould and yeasts require hotter to die (60C to 70C and up) though will also be somewhat washed off in cooler.
That said, there are a lot of heat resistant organisms that won't be autoclaved as easily and I'm not a microbiologist, maybe there's microbial evolution if a wash doesn't kill off everything in one go. I've been using the same brands for years but also always wash hot! 😆
I have a couple questions:
The advice to do an occasional extra hot cycle as a way to clean the machine — real, or nonsense?
OK, OK, you convinced me, I'll phase out liquid soaps. Are darks/colour/white liquid detergents a marketing thing, or us the distinction useful?
Thanks!
@laguiri Washing the machine very hot will help detach biological gunk left over from the washes, both of human and detergent origin... With whatever local water it may also help with mineral build up. Depending a bit on what you wash you might be okay to just wash your bedding super hot sometimes, and that should boil out the machine nicely, nothing extra required... It does kill mildew and bacteria better than reasonably warm temperatures, so does help if the machine smells bad. There's also cleaner tablets, mostly citric acid! They do work, but aren't always required!
Colour detergent doesn't have any oxidants, and white detergent has, so the latter will actually slightly bleach anything you wash. Liquid detergent for whites tends to only have optical brighteners (blue dye, makes laundry look whiter) but powder white may have both! If there's something about "makes black more black" on a dark detergent, it might have optical darkeners (whatever that means), has a formulation that *maybe* doesn't leech out as much dye, and probably shouldn't be used on white. 😄 I tend to only have colour and white powders and wear a lot of black clothes. If you only want to buy one, get the one for colour, and keep white and everything else laundry separate when you wash it!
You're very welcome!
@Sini Tuulia @La Guiri I buy an oxygen-something based bleach that can be added to regular detergent for both whitening the whites (but it's marked as safe for colour fabric too and I never had catastrophical accidents) and for disinfection, and then I only require one detergent.
And then I tend to forget about adding the bleach, but whatever, it means that the package lasts longer,right? :D
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@Sini Tuulia @La Guiri yeah, this is something explicitly sold with instructions on how to add it to other detergents, so I'd assume it to be as safe as the average household cleaning product
with Actual Bleach I think that the correct protocol is to avoid mixing it with anything, except water, and to be careful even when mixing it with water, just in case :)
here the typical product that you're not supposed to be mixing with bleach is Ammonia, but I wouldn't be surprised to hear that there are more
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And furthermore, about the liquid laundry detergent: It contains preservatives to kill any fungal growth etc. and will absolutely anger your skin and/or immune system if you're allergic or sensitive to it. If you get a rash from your laundry, try powder detergent instead!
You will also usually need a lot less detergent than is advised, and if it gunks up the detergent dispenser of your machine, just chuck it straight into the machine drum instead. If you need to have a second phase of washing, you can dissolve the powder into a small cup of warm water and pour that into the dispenser from where it will be dispensed when the machine comes to that bit of the programme!
@Research_FTW Yes, the quality of just generic things has gone really downhill. Make it as cheap and as fast as possible, it doesn't matter if it doesn't last because all you want to do is sell even more of the same anyway. It's a race to the bottom and it makes me furious!
(Even the "luxury" options are nearly as bad, it's the same stuff with a more expensive label. Certifications for Fair Trade, union work or organic materials and Öko-Tex for non-toxic materials do help discerning when the manufacturers gave half a shit, but yeah.)
Wool is great! There are quite a few niche producers in Australia and New Zealand making good quality, machine washable, sustainable wool garments, including underwear. New Zealanders specialise in blended merino and possum wool garments. Lightweight but incredibly warm, and low pilling. (Possums are a feral species in New Zealand.)
Wool is a slaughter industry full of hidden cruelty and environmental destruction. The people who commit this cruelty often suffer because of it, too.Collective Fashion Justice
i hear what you’re saying, but i’m not sure sheep should be forced to bear the direct burden of humans’ fundamentally broken fashion system. is a coat that lasts a human 20 years worth the entire life of another being, especially when ethical, sustainable plant fibres exist? i know wool has specific properties that make it desirable to humans, but does that give us the right to take it?
i acknowledge that we’ve gotten ourselves into a huge mess right now and that it’s not as simple as “everyone switch to plant fibres right now”. but i also think the recent movement encouraging a wider adoption of wool — without acknowledging or discussing the very real trade-offs — has dire consequences for all lives on this planet.
@ivy Plant fibres are well and good until it hits -30C (-22F) and then you're either going to be wearing some high tech plastic that is a problem the second the oil for it gets dug up... or wool. This I know from first hand experience. I've also been told by some patient indigenous educators that when it hits -40C (-40F) you're also going to need fur. I wouldn't personally wear fur, and fur farmers can walk into the sea for all the harm they cause, but fur and leather when done right, for example as one facet of reindeer herding where the entire animal gets used...
Probably more sustainable than off-shore drilling and killing a million fish, invertebrates and birds when there's yet another oil spill.
Sustainable isn't always the same as ethical! They do often intersect, but not always. There are a thousand ways to unethically and unsustainably produce plant fibres and garments, too. Do I wish every bit of wool ever came from a named sheep living its best sheep life, rotationally grazing in a permaculture setup? Or that everybody switched to certified Oeko-Tex or organic linen? I do. And I do hope we get there. I think even the trend and awareness about *wanting* more sustainable and ethical is good, now we just have to make it so companies are actually held accountable.
@Samuel Hautamäki I know of a place that sells kevlar reinforced fabric to end consumers, so I think that *is* actually an option.
the fabric is quite expensive, and they also sell kevlar-specific tools (mostly for cutting), and I believe they are really needed, which would add to the expense, so I'm quite sure it would be significantly more expensive than buying one, and not just because the bought one is made by underpaid labour (also that, but a lot is also economy of scale).
I believe it's probably also significantly harder than making a regular jacket, especially a non-tailored one, so it would take significant time and skill.
But it is an option, if one wants and enjoys it.
@Samuel Hautamäki lol :D
and this is the kevlar section
extremtextil.de/en/fabrics/hea…
it may be a dangerous shop :D
(I've never bought the kevlar, but I've bought other technical fabric and various components and haberdashery from them)
I've made mine for a while now, and have reached a point where I have enough until a lot of it falls apart. 😄 Good for the environment, bad for making cool and informative sewing posts online!
You can find all kinds of treasures in the second hand sphere, it might take a lot of time and luck, but there's Good Shit on there. Using a garment that has already been made is always for the better, at least until we can make recycling them profitable - it's already possible but because it doesn't make money and isn't mandated, the industry doesn't. If we don't wear it, it ends up in landfill or nature and slowly breaks apart there. Yay capitalism. 🙃
Saying that, I also build my own furniture, grow my own food, and as a skilled engineer, I repair every piece of equipment rather than replace (until I can’t repair any more).
Unfortunately, enshitification means that humanity stopped producing good quality items that can be repaired, instead creating planned obsolescence, forcing repeat purchases of the same product, which could have easily been designed to last a lifetime but wasn’t due to capitalism and greed.
@RaffKarva I love that the Right To Repair movement is making headway in the EU but it's too little and too late for a lot of created and accumulated trash. I've been happy to see even modular laptops and smartphones being made! But because worker's aren't paid enough anywhere, they can't afford the nice and sensibly made more durable things even if they exist. (Citing the Vimes Boot Theory, once again.)
A lot of people don't even know there are other options to spending on trash! I suppose the best we can do is yell about it so people find out.
can we make repairing clothes normal again?
There's no one stopping us. #RightToRepair for clothing is fairly easy.
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@xgebi this is such a great thread. And yes: where if not here on masto?
Thanks for all the insights.
#mending related: a sticker i felt the urge to create (pro mending and repairing).
@xgebi How bad/good is hemp? My impression was that it was significantly better for the soil (overall) than cotton but I dunno about how bad it is to harvest & turn into fiber.
I heard that hemp jeans tend to last longer than cotton, but don't know how true that is.
@masukomi Hemp is much more ecological to grow than cotton, which isn't a very high bar but there it is! The plant also has other uses, so there's some synergy with other production.
There's viscose made from hemp cellulose, because it's a pretty plant-agnostic process: put cellulose in, out comes viscose.
I think when used "raw" hemp is a slightly rough but very durable fabric, similar to linen? I've read about it being used for yukata etc.
I've mostly handled hemp viscose, and blends, so I don't know what it's like on its own as fabric. Most ropes used to be hemp, so the fibre has been use for millennia, but the War On Drugs made farming even the non-entertaining kind much more difficult in the US. But it will grow pretty much anywhere, as far as I remember!
@Sini Tuulia @masukomi I think that chemical retting of linen and other baste fibers is also pretty bad, and of course it's faster, easier and cheaper than the other alternatives (dew and water).
I thought that most commercial linen these days was chemically retted, but a quick internet search gives hopes that it's not necessarily so, which is always nice to find out.
@Sini Tuulia @masukomi I don't remember where I've read that most archeological fiber remains that are listed as linen have a good chance to be another bast fiber, including hemp or nettle because they look very similar and nobody bothers doing the detailed tests for the difference.
I think in recent times (say 1800s or early 1900 :D ) hemp was more likely to be used for coarse products and linen for finer ones, but I'm not sure whether it was related to some intrinsic quality.
My mother still has a few vintage cotton/hemp towels and they don't feel significantly different from cotton/linen.
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y'all don't constantly repair?
The only clothes I've ever thrown away are a uniform that split in fucking halves and a pair of socks cos 1 had a hole the size of my heel
@sleepybisexual I keep making 18th century petticoats out of old bedding and am wearing one as a house skirt even as I type this. 😄 They're just rectangles pleated onto waist ties and really very comfy! The one I'm wearing is a decades old half of a duvet cover!
(Image is an older gif of me wearing it in my living room.)
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@dilmandila
"Across the tropics, people worked out long ago how to transform fig tree bark into comfortable cloth—the practice could even predate weaving." Neat, hadn't heard of it.
"The colonial rulers had little use for the industry. They compelled farmers to produce cotton for English mills instead, stopped the practice of paying taxes in barkcloth, and banned traditional religion.'" of course. Of fucking course!
(source Atlas Obscura article)
@bjoern Fully ignoring the cultural and social significance of dress, we ALREADY produce clothing for a very small group of people.
Most of the manufactured clothing is made in countries where it's easier to skirt all labour and safety regulations (if they exist), and is sold to the West, where a very small margin of all the people on Earth buy it by the truckloads, wear it rarely if ever, and then donate it to "charity" when it's time for another closet purge, or they age or change size - whereupon it often gets shipped way back across the world and piles up by the bales in Africa et al where it makes financial sense to sort through it, and then gets carted to rot in a desert or landfill if it doesn't get picked up by anyone because it's such fundamentally poor quality.
In short, we should stop producing shit that is only good for the landfill in the end, and fast fashion needs to go die in a bin! Making regular quality clothes with moderation, to last, and out of reasonable local materials is how humans used to do it!
@dilmandila @movation Just because something has been done for a long time doesn't mean it's inferior! Often the opposite! Colonialism go in the bin, please. 😂
But yeah. Ramie is lovely to work with and feels quite nice. It has slightly different properties than cotton or linen, so somebody not familiar with it might be puzzled by the things it does, but it is very very comfortable to wear when it's nice quality.
@movation I remember one editor telling me to change bark cloth for something like leather in a short story set in the far future. I did, because I was just starting out and didn't know how to fight for my ideas, but I keep putting bark cloth in the future as the dominant material whenever I get the chance. Someone saw this in my film and they said "oh, so even in the future Africans are backward?"
I guess colonialism did a good job!
@kechpaja Jeans used to be a working person's garment that would last for decades (or years of hard work) but now they're made of paper and elasticised in such a way that the material disintegrates when you properly wash it enough. I used to find some success with different ripstop-fabric cargo pants, but that's a very specific look and not for everybody!
I mostly wear skirts these days because they're much easier to make than trousers and my knees hate extra pressure on the kneecap. 😄
What about hemp clothing?
I try to thrift most of my clothes since buying new at least somewhat sustainable stuff is expensive but that hinges very much on things being available in my size, I can only assume this issue is aggravated for people who have even more have trouble finding clothes in their size even when not buying second-hand.
@krummi Yeah, I originally started sewing by modifying thrifted clothes and then making them from scratch because I'm shaped so that it's impossible to find things that fit. So I know how rough it can be if you're even slightly different from the "standard human" the manufacturers pretend exists! Every penny to an inclusive shape, size and/or style clothing line means more will get made, but they tend to be expensive in comparison.
I replied to someone about hemp and would be repeating most of it, so here's a link to that reply. 😄 eldritch.cafe/@sinituulia/1121…
@masukomi Hemp is much more ecological to grow than cotton, which isn't a very high bar but there it is! The plant also has other uses, so there's some synergy with other production.
There's viscose made from hemp cellulose, because it's a pretty plant-agnostic process: put cellulose in, out comes viscose.I think when used "raw" hemp is a slightly rough but very durable fabric, similar to linen? I've read about it being used for yukata etc.
I've mostly handled hemp viscose, and blends, so I don't know what it's like on its own as fabric. Most ropes used to be hemp, so the fibre has been use for millennia, but the War On Drugs made farming even the non-entertaining kind much more difficult in the US. But it will grow pretty much anywhere, as far as I remember!
Haha same, I'm not so great at sewing but I do occasionally modify clothes I thrift, mostly to make sleeves or pant legs shorter (there are other modifications that could be made but spoons are a bit limited and I don't have a machine).
Really wish to see more variety in sizes in the future for all shapes of bodies so that having sustainable clothes that fit doesn't hinge on personal crafting skills or money for additional modifications!
Also thanks for the link, I had missed that reply! And thanks for the overall very informative thread, another thing that immediately came to my mind was the fake-"sustainable" bamboo clothes that are seemingly everywhere now too but are really just viscose in disguise.
Do you have any info/thoughts on lyocell and similar materials?
@krummi You're welcome, it was pretty deep in the thread! If you missed it, @valhalla replied with additional hemp thoughts below it - I'll probably add more thoughts tomorrow but it's late and am out of spoons. 😅
It's been a bit, but we did go through all the different man-made fibres at school materials class, like cupro, modal, rayon, Tencel... Most of them are a trade name for the chemical bath and process they use when making viscose, Lyocell as a product name wasn't around back then. They all have slight differences and some of them are super bad to produce, most are quite nice to wear and drape.
Lyocell is supposed to be more green, but my personal experience of it is that it feels like nice cotton but doesn't hold up to washing and cat claws like cotton! Can be made from recycled fibres though, so there's that.
No worries and take your time, conserving spoons is important! 🥄
Either way thanks for your insights! I was somehow under the impression that lyocell was less toxic to produce than viscose but maybe that was just marketing information, I should probably research more.
Also, including information on how fabric feels is super valuable for texture-sensitive folks. I find that softness is an increasingly important criterion for me as I get older, sadly some knitted stuff from pure wool has to be ruled out because it feels too scratchy on my skin without extra layers (which isn't always possible due to easily feeling too warm 
).
@krummi Lyocell is less toxic than viscose but this is also not a very high bar! I think there's been new process patents floating around where they take in an reuse the chemicals and the water in a closed loop... But because it's expensive to retrofit existing factories, it's not always done, and there's generally very little oversight. Having an Oeko-Tex label (Öko-Tex 100, also) on it means it's AT LEAST had the eyes of somebody on it at some point.
Half of sewing for me is Fabric Sense, sensory information is extremely important! I've handled some bamboo viscose knits that are the softest thing I've ever touched, even though they're not the most durable option out there.
I’ve been following Avery Trufelman for a long while, and her newsletter on fashion is great. This one may interest you:
Radical acceptance an thrifting, Articles of Interest > articlesofinterest.substack.co…
@econads @1Atalante1 For me, it ends up being less laundry by weight and less wear on the things I care more about: The top layer is heavier and takes ages to dry, whereas the thin cotton short sleeved shirt is fairly insubstantial and thin.
I'll wear the undershirt for 2-5 days, depending on what I physically do and what the weather is like - and the cardigan on top for 3-10 days, depending on if I get it dirty or it starts bothering me. (Of note, I don't use "normal" deodorant with a scent, your mileage will vary!)
I can shove six undershirts in one machine load and a bunch of other stuff without issue, but only four cardigans before I have to think about what else fits. It all evens out!
@econads @Lotta @Sini Tuulia it also depends on the materials: there are top layer garments made of wool that I only wash once at the end of the season (admittely I don't wear them every day, they get aired between wears, and I often have at least two washable layers under them)
things that are worn in summer tend to be washed more often, of course.
@chongliss I love that there are Right To Repair laws and repair cafes popping up! People do care, they just might not know what to do. But if they're taking their temperamental vacuum cleaner for a tune-up and notice that the cafe also does textile repairs? They're gonna come back with a bag of clothes they love and don't want to throw away. There used to be a tailor or seamstress on every block, according to some older people.
There are people who think it's easier to just buy a new shirt instead of sewing a button back on, but I hope more people realise how much effort and resources that new shirt was!
looking at my one friend with holes in all his socks
The sustainability king...
Then, there is hemp 😁
Growing hemp cleans the soil, if the garment is no longer usable, drop it in a field and it adds nourishments...
@valhalla @bob Yes, we should definitely be growing more hemp and less cotton, hemp is a pretty good plant... But it's not going to magically fix the exploitative, resource intensive and wasteful nature of the garment industry of the present day!
The simplest and cheapest solution is just wearing the things that already exist for longer. This doesn't benefit the shareholders, but that's an added bonus. 😄
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@nddev Yes! To both dust mites and bacteria. But also the higher temperatures kill the yeasts from human skin, which are generally not harmful or rot the fabrics, but can transfer between people using the same laundry: everybody can get itchy feet if somebody has cursed socks.
Some people are also deeply allergic to fabric softener and there's residue flaking off of people wearing conditioned clothing that gets on everything as a very fine dust, not to mention the VOCs that get breathed in. Please everybody stop using fabric conditioner!
@jonobie Probably the hardness of the water has some effect, too. And what is on the textiles to begin with.
In Ruth's "The Domestic Revolution: How the Introduction of Coal into Victorian Homes Changed Everything" there was a whole bunch about how cold water and whacking worked until coal got everywhere, when you'd also need soap. We tend not to have coal burning indoors any more, so I do wonder about it.
Dust mites and skin yeasts do not die before 60C, though, but tuberculosis is killed by vinegar apparently...
@CppGuy Absolutely! I've spoken to enough Americans that both do not speak Celsius and have machines that only have options like Cold, Delicate, Hot etc. and was trying to be as generic as possible. 😄
But yes, absolutely. I wash pretty much everything I own at 60C, but also try to wash anything only after it truly needs it. Less sorting, and I know the materials because I usually made them myself.
70C is nice for both sanitising the thing I am washing, as well as the washing machine. 70C will also kill pretty much all mould, mildew or spores (as well as bacteria and viruses) - while many will start dying off at 60C, 70C is more reliable and total.
What an exceptionally vague way to describe it: "We then extract fibres from this material using a patent-pending, non-polluting method that uses entirely renewable consumables."
Because it's already possible to produce cellulose based viscose from pretty much any plant material, I'd assume it's similar, but a different formulation. Lyocell for example is a much less toxic and water intensive formula than previous ones, but still toxic and water intensive! Like yes, do use waste products that could have multiple uses beyond composting (Which is important for a host of other reasons!) but it's not a magical solution, especially in the start-up stage.
Just use less is a very simple one.
[Wear the] "garments you already own, until they fall apart or someone else needs them!"
At least I'm doing one thing right then. #HatesShopping
@smilingheretic It's more about energy conservation for me, personally. I don't have a lot of energy and I certainly am not going to benefit from using it to spin up even more despair, sadness and anger than generally happens in an ambient way through sheer osmosis... It's not a good place to live in, and it's simply less energy to go: "This may not matter, but I am doing the right thing and will sleep better for doing it."
The catharsis might feel good for a second, but you're just going to tire out and discourage other people who are struggling with the same thing, if you keep going on about how it's all terrible and nothing can be done unless something beyond your control does it... I wouldn't even call that optimism or hope, maybe more courtesy and tactical spoons use.
that's advice I can and am already following...
I hate clothes shopping so much I avoid it until just before the point where I would have to go to the shop naked
@fay Ideally the linen would have been washed hot enough before the garment or other textile was made so the shrinking had happened beforehand, but yeah, it will skrinkle up in the wash no matter what and appear optically smaller even if it has been properly pre-shrunk. Stonewashed and pre-washed are terms you can find in linen fabrics when buying them, and really it's a VERY cut corner if it hasn't been pre-shrunk before it was sewn in a garment you buy...
I sew and wear a huge amount of linen and then spend a good while after each wash ironing it again, and often pretty much boil it in 70C if it seems to need it and it doesn't shrink because I washed it hot before I made it. 😄
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@AngbarerAlchimist Hemp in the form it's usually sold is a heavily processed viscose, which while nice to wear is still pretty horrible ecologically. But less processed hemp is on par with linen, ramie and nettle fibres, which are all fairly ecological and lovely fibres to wear... Just much more expensive and more difficult to find than the bog standard cotton. Hemp is a fantastic fucking plant for more than just fibres and we used to use it a lot more and could use it a lot more!
Some years ago there was this news where a Finnish man was growing a field of a specific kind of hemp for his thesis, but then someone told the police about it, and the police not bothering to check with the university if it was allowed to be there, or whether it was for drugs... Destroyed it. 🙃
The #RSS spec was released 25 years ago on this day. Happy birthday, RSS! 🎂 🎉 🎁
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rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua
in reply to Quenby • • •I'm pretty glad to teach the few things I know to whoever genuinely ask, but I think "How To Ask Questions The Smart Way" must be a mandatory reading.
catb.org/~esr/faqs/smart-quest…
How To Ask Questions The Smart Way
www.catb.org