If anybody else is interested in #HistoricalSewing, today I stumbled on a couple of lists of period #patternDrafting and generally #sewing books, mostly biased towards the early 1900s
ilsegregoorcostumes.com/the-be…
mermaidsden.com/blog/2017/08/1…
(and my collection of related PDFs has grown, and I really need to organize it somehow :D )
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btw, my own list of such books (the ones I've actually used, not just collected) is at
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Steinweiß (sie/sie) reshared this.
uh, interesting resources (and excellent choice to do that instead of doomscrolling :) )
I'll look at them tomorrow (here it's sleeping time)
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I mean, I don't see how radium water can fail to cure grey hair, right? :D
(page 63, if the link doesn't point to it, and it's a 1920s ad for, well, radium water as a cure for grey hair)
A history of feminine fashion : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive
The metadata below describe the original scanning. Follow the All Files: HTTP link in the View the book box to the left to find XML files that contain more...Internet Archive
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Mi capitano sottocchio quei post dei ricordi su quell'altrosociallà ed
è pieno di "tonsillite, ma si va a lavoro" o "e anche oggi febbrone, ora tachipirina e via".
Che ci rimanga, tra le cose buone imparate, questa perlomeno: se stai male, stai a casa, ti curi, ti riprendi, poi torni. La cultura dell'indomitə che sorride finché non crepa male lasciamola a casa a far la muffa.
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Che sono atteggiamenti di merdissima che vorrei ci lasciassimo alle spalle, reliquie del mondo "di prima".
che poi andando al lavoro malati non fai produrre di più l'azienda, la fai produrre di meno, perché a) tu quei giorni lavori di merda b) contagi i colleghi c) tutti i colleghi contagiati o lavorano di merda, o devono stare a casa e non lavorano per niente.
solo che per farlo entrare nella [epiteto rimosso] di testa di certa gente, ecco, ho paura che non sia bastata una pandemia :(
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Branco di nerd, riconoscete questo posto? mettete CW alle risposte per non spoilerare agli altri, grazie
Do you nerds recognise this place? Please CW your answers to avoid spoilers
Foto scattata in una cittadina italiana, con un viale alberato in discesa e in fondo un palazzo a quattro piani con vetrine di negozi al pian terreno e un'altra strada più stretta che prosegue. Poche macchine (soprattutto parcheggiate), qualche pedone e bicicletta.
Picture taken in an italian town, with a tree-lined, downhill wide street; at the end there are a 4-stories building with shops and another street. Few cars (mostly parked), few pedestrians and bikes.
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"Sphinx of black quartz, judge my vow!"
This pangram (a sentence using every letter of the alphabet) is so much more bad-ass than the stupid "quick brown fox" that I had to illustrate it. A tribute to master Jean Giraud (aka Moebius).
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Anyway, half of the time I read an introduction or something where somebody says they are a Victorian by brain goes “wait? how are they posting from the 19th century? did Friendica add support for the telegraph? oh, right, the Australian state” :D
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[EN]"Mastodon.it" website is perceived by many people as the official Mastodon website of Italy, yet it is not.
It is a website promoting "mastodon.uno" over other instances, it's their first link on the page.
If I had my own instance, I wouldn't federate with people tricking others into joining their instance [mastodon.uno] .
[IT]Il sito "Mastodon.it" è percepito da molte persone come il sito ufficiale di Mastodon italiano, ma non lo è.
È un sito che promuove "mastodon.uno" rispetto alle altre istanze, è il primo link nella pagina.
Se avessi una mia istanza, disabiliterei la federazione con chi porta gente nella propria istanza [mastodon.uno] con l'inganno.
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magari si può chiedere agli admin di Bida.
D'altro canto, non sarebbe stato più semplice, vantaggioso ed immediato creare direttamente l'istanza mastodon.it, senza 'sto giro assurdo? 🙂
I feel an irrestistible need to share with you all the good news that I've just finished the thread in the bobbin right at the end of a seam.
Not the last seam of the project, that would have been *too much*, but not the next to last seam of a project either.
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We are told as anarchists to kill our idols, not because their problematic.
We are told to kill our idols, lest we turn them into a twisted sociopolitical religion. And use it against anyone who speaks against it as a heretic.
We kill our idols, because we refuse to become a dominant hegemony.
Kill your Idols....
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Filed under: if it can be done it must be done (it's probably not a good idea), right?
18th century pocket. *tactical*!
(Picture of something shaped line a 18th century pocket, except it's made of blue cordura with alternating red and white 2.5 cm webbing sewn at regular 4 cm intervals, and the front slit is closed by a water repellent zipper.)
(Picture of the back of the same pocket, where the webbing is blue (in a darker hue than the cordura), there is no slit, but two small belt loops sewn in the top seam.)
I know, to make it properly *tactical* it should have been camo instead of brightly coloured, but I have no camo fabric at home (and honestly have no plan to buy any) and this was a spur-of-the-moment thing made with leftovers from my backpack-and-accessories.
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TFW it's 21:40, you're making something silly and want to see it finished, you are at the stage where you need to sew a waterproof zipper into waterproof fabric (so there is only one try) plus a lining, and you're stuck with deciding the best way to do it in a way that is as clean as possible. Also, the neighbors won't be happy about my sewing machine going on in the night
I'll try to do the sensible thing and sleep on it. As opposed to both doing it wrong right now AND waking up in the middle of the night with an idea on how to do it and then not being able to sleep.
Tomorrory is a holiday, so I'll be able to work on it in the morning, at least.
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Uhm… zippers?
Like these?
collectspace.com/ubb/Forum14/H…
Apollo A7L suit zippers and pressure tests - collectSPACE: Messages
Source for space history, space artifacts, and space memorabilia. Learn where astronauts will appear, browse collecting guides, and read original space history-related daily reports.www.collectspace.com
LOL, not sealing, just water repellent :D
extremtextil.de/en/zippers/aqu…
I'm reusing the parts of the broken zipper I've removed from my backpack that are still good.
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LOL, of course I didn't wake up in the middle of the night.
I remained fully awake for an hour or two until I got up to make myself an herbal tea and to write down all of the MYOG ideas I had on paper.
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Temple of Mammona¹, Varese, viale Belforte
¹ representation may not be 100% accurate to reality
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ci ho messo del mio, ma non è *molto*, quella sede unicredit odora davvero di edificio religioso!
Ero quasi tentata di taggare chieseBrutte :D
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omg.
she has just taken a small magnet, maybe 2 cm tall, put it on her scissors, and used that as a guide to cut a regular sewing allowance around a pattern.
that loooks like a very useful #sewingTip!
(the related part of video are just a few seconds)
Challenge Accepted! | One Day Make History Bound
We got challenged by my friend @Kirilee Cosplay to do a one day make... Challenge Accepted!It took me a while but finally found the time to do one. I have be...YouTube
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TIL: using white glue to attach a waterproof zipper to TPU-coated cordura (and to uncoated lining cordura), and leaving it overnight with a lot of binder clips on WORKS.
In some places it had detached, but there was enough still working that I was able to sew the zipper with much less effort than I would have if everything was kept together with binder clips.
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TIL: arminstraub.com/software/krop
Software which is in Debian (so it does exist :D ) to crop a pdf file, with the option to select the area to crop once for the whole pdf, twice (odd and even pages) or individually.
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FreeSewing è un progetto software open source con l'obiettivo di diventare la Wikipedia dei modelli di cucito.
«Forniamo una libreria di base per la progettazione di modelli parametrici, una libreria in continua crescita di progetti implementati nel codice, nonché una serie di strumenti adiacenti per la creazione di interfacce moderne sulla nostra piattaforma.
Non siamo interessati alla moda, alle tendenze o alla pubblicazione del nuovo modello caldo della stagione. Invece, vogliamo responsabilizzare i maker distillando la conoscenza della comunità del cucito in progetti parametrici + documentazione e rendere tali informazioni liberamente disponibili.»
FreeSewing è creato da collaboratori che sono tutti volontari e supportati finanziariamente attraverso Patron .
(segnalato da @Elena ``of Valhalla'' )
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Lisa’s List: 12 Yarn Ball Types and How to Knit with Them
Lisa teaches the proper terms for 12 different yarn ball types, how to knit with them and how to hand-wind a ball of yarn.Jenn (Interweave)
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The two main thinks I've been sewing lately are ready to be worn!
The skirt is a foundation skirt from a 1892 patternmaking manual in light blue linen/cotton with box pleated ruffles at the hem, made in a walking length (you can see the ankles! and the very modern hiking boots I'm wearing every day with late 1800 inspired clothing :D )
The shirt is a gentleman's shirt from a 1880 book, made in blue cotton with two pleats per side in the front plus the button placket and a handful of errors: I've put one of the three buttons in the wrong position (it should have been midway between the collar and the second button) and the cuffs are too small (and I've put the slit in the wrong position, wooops), so I haven't added buttons yet (and maybe I won't?)
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The back of the skirt is very full and heavily pleated in the waistband, so it could be worn as is, but also with a bit of padding in the bustle area.
The back of the skirt is gathered in the yoke (but in the picture it can't really be seen, since I'm also wearing my hairs *down*)
Shoes (of which the sole can be seen in the picture) are still very much not historically accurate :D
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The skirt is going to be my to-go skirt for this season, worn like this (which is why I've made it as a short (for its time) walking length skirt).
I'm also going to make some draperies to wear on top of it for a more historical look, but those are needed with less urgency.
I'm also half-way through editing and adding pictures to the instructions, so I will be publishing the source code for it *soon*. #FreeSoftWear
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And as I wrote in another comment, my short term plans for the shirt are to remake it in linen, probably trying to improve the armscye lines a bit, as well as fixing the cuff size.
The detachable collar from my other linen shirt of course fits, and maybe I'll make a few others in different styles, but I'm not sure they will be ready this summer.
The instructions have already been written, but I still have to edit and add the step-by-step pictures, and they are *a lot*, so publishing those will take a bit more time (but it will happen!)
And then there is a cut of lightweight red wool waiting for me in the stash, but that's in long-term plans territory :)
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Soon happened much earlier than I expected :D
sewing-patterns.trueelena.org/…
#FreeSoftWear instructions for a late 1800 foundation skirt with high #historyBounding potential.
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well, the skirt is cotton/linen, so it breathes quite well (and being a relatively wide skirt there is quite some potential for air movement). The other layer below it is a cotton petticoat with lots of ruffles, which I may or may not wear depending on the season and on how historically accurate I want to be.
Plus cotton leggings and wool socks, but those may go away as the season becomes warmer, especially the wool socks :D
I'm quite confident that it's going to be only mildly uncomfortable with any temperature that I can expect in this part of the world (in the 30°C, ish), and less uncomfortable than going around in shorts that don't protect the legs from the sun.
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The shirt is a different matter: it's a relatively thick cotton and I'm wearing it as a moderately warm outer layer on top of a long sleeved t-shirt now that temperatures are around 16–18°C, it's definitely not summer wear.
But it's also a wearable mock-up for a linen shirt, and that one is going to be part of my standard summer wear, together with two other linen shirts from different decades. Again, I'm not going to be comfortable during the summer :) but it's nice to have some well breathing fabric between my body and the sun. As for layers, I'm probably going to be wearing it over either a cotton/linen jersey camisole or a linen chemise (if I manage to make it before the summer :D ), and either a bra or a summer corset in aida cloth.
There is also a video on youtube, I believe by Abby Cox, of people spending half an hour or so in the USA desert in summer while wearing fully layered historical clothing in wool, linen and silk and then measuring their skin temperature with a thermal camera, compared to the same thing while wearing single layer, short modern clothing.
spoiler: multiple layers in linen and wool won :D
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of course, it's the back of the *shirt* that is gathered in the yoke.
And I was surprised I had managed to write this long thread without ever mixing up skirt and shirt.
Those two words are *evil*! evil I say!
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Sai se tra i metodi di modellismo (che sono sempre stati sottoposti a una ferrea protezione della proprietà intellettuale) iniziano a essercene alcuni rilasciati in creative commons?
modellismo nel senso di modelli di cucito, giusto (perché altrimenti no, non è qualcosa che pratico)?
Che io sappia è ancora una nicchia piccolina, ma ci si sta provando. Credo che ci sia anche qualcosa nella comunità di utenti di Valentina (il programma che uso per disegnare i modelli), ma non so più che fine abbia fatto (temo su facebook?) e l'autore del programma è più propenso verso la vendita degli stessi, per cui non credo che li incoraggi particolarmente.
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@Elena ``of Valhalla'' @varve purtroppo i software sono così costosi da avere provocato la creazione di un mercato del sw pirata molto sviluppato (cfr mastodon.uno/@informapirata/10… ). Il fatto è che al di là del software sono proprio i "metodi" di modellismo (come disegnare un cartamodello in base alle misure) a essere sottoposti a un copyright che rappresenta spesso l'unico vero asset delle scuole di modellismo
@Bevilacqua Gustavino @Rapita dagli alieni @Sasha @Ben Zanin @Christine Lemmer-Webber @Craig Maloney ☕ @[:babaKatt:] Gerblin Taffer :heartQVP::sparkles2: @David Bremner @Astra: Zero Luma
Buona domanda, a quello che leggevo in giro ad essere protetto da copyrigth è la descrizione del metodo, ma non il metodo stesso (che potrebbe essere coperto da brevetti però?), per cui seguire le istruzioni per disegnare un block con un software e pubblicare il relativo file dovrebbe essere lecito.
Parlo però di istruzioni pubblicate su libri, non di blocchi predisposti per specifici programmi.
Come software conosco valentina, che è in debian, e quello in javascript usato su freesewing: entrambi sono basati su design parametrico basato sulle misure del destinatario finale e non sulla creazione di una taglia standard e poi ottenere le altre taglie tramite grading.
Credo che la cosa li renda adatti al lavoro delle sarte (oltre che ovviamente al cucito domestico / individuale), ma non all'uso per la produzione di massa.
Ah, e ovviamente ci sono i manuali d'epoca, con cui si va sul sicuro dal punto di vista della proprietà intellettuale, ma che potrebbero avere qualche lieve controindicazioni stilistica :D
(non capisco quale possa essere il problema, basta vestirsi come se si fosse nell'ottocento :D )
Questi sono i tre che ho usato, nei README ci sono i link al manuale su archive.org, dove però ce ne sono anche molti altri:
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@Elena ``of Valhalla'' fantastico! Grazie per la segnalazione!
@varve @Bevilacqua Gustavino @Rapita dagli alieni @Sasha @Ben Zanin @Christine Lemmer-Webber @Craig Maloney ☕ @[:babaKatt:] Gerblin Taffer :heartQVP::sparkles2: @David Bremner @Astra: Zero Luma
On the corner of a street nearby where they often leave used cars for sale they have a panda 4×4. in RED! so it will go even FASTER¹!
we don't need a second car.
but I NEED IT!!! NEED!!! WANT!!!! :D
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Ormai le pande 4×4 sono più ricercate delle Maserati…
Forse perché vanno meglio?
invidious-us.kavin.rocks/watch…
Maserati Levante in the snow, Sprinter in the ditch.
We got a call for a Maserati Lavante stuck in the snow at the hop valley trailhead, it was their 2nd vehicle at the end of their hike, we were able to get it out for them before they got done with the hike.Invidious
Aaand I haz a short skirt for the spring and summer!
it shows the *ankles*!
and I went for a short walk, and it was the right length not to have to worry about it touching the dirty ground.
There may be pictures in the weekend, and there will be source code as soon as I finish editing the step-by-step pictures I took during the process.
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/me sussurra
epperò, se stiam parlando di medioevo, o son nobili o son borghesi, eran due cose ben diverse
/me scappa
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A piece of apple spontaneously formed in my mouth, and I was “it's ok, it was spontaneously generated by the body, so I can eat it and it won't change the results of my blood tests”.
And of course the fact that food could spontaneously form in my mouth was perfectly normal :D
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Does anyone know of a good way to have a linux computer read books (epub and pdf books etc) out loud to me?
I'm a complete noob when it comes to screen readers and such.
Elena ``of Valhalla'' likes this.
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The world’s oldest pants are a 3,000-year-old engineering marvel
Strong in some places and flexible in others, the pants were designed for horseback riding.Ars Technica
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Dear people who sew: do you have cucirini tre stelle sewing thread where you get your sewing thread? Here (just north of Milan where it is from) it is *the* sewing thread, and it was for my mother and for my grandmother, but I'm wondering whether it's a very local thing or not.
Gente che cuce: da voi c'è il filo per cucire cucirini tre stelle? Qui (un po' più a nord di Milano, da dove arriva) è *il* filo per cucire, e lo era per mia madre e per mia nonna, ma mi sto chiedendo quanto sia una faccenda locale.
From Detroit area: No, I'm regularly hopping between several nicer sewing stores, and I have not seen that brand at any of them.
There is one very high end store I go to very rarely (as in asking to handle their stock of bridal fabrics starts with them handing you gloves fancy) who stock lingerie fittings I need occasionally; I will take a look the next time I am there, but I don't recall seeing this brand.
Elena ``of Valhalla'' likes this.
Thanks everybody for the answers.
Yeah, gutermann is also the main brand available here in supermarkets etc., and their polyester thread is fine (but I try not to use it), but imho their cotton helps giving cotton thread a bad rep.
Grazie a tutti per le risposte.
E sì, gutermann è la marca che si trova anche qui nei supermercati, e il loro filo di poliestere è decente (ma cerco di non usarlo), ma secondo me il loro filo di cotone aiuta a dare cattiva fama al filo di cotone.
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So, I've bought some linen thread to handsew a shirt or two, nothing unusual.
And then I've spotted what is the main reason why they sell it today (bobbin lace), and that reminded me that it's something I try to do some time ago, and really wanted to try again, sooner or later.
raise TooManyProjectsError
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I thought my grandmother's cotton or linen tatting looked like micro-crochet, and projects are small, fitting in a pocket so well. Strong too. Tatting could hand-reinforce button holes and add small loops to things. I might have a tatting shuttle somewhere. . . en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tatting#… . Grandmother's looked like the metal-hooked one in this pic: upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia…
Piccolo thread sul concetto di "promuovere le proprie opere" su Livello Segreto, che siano articoli, podcast, saggi o sculture di gommapane.
1) Potete farlo! Anzi, è incoraggiato. Siamo qui per scoprire cose interessanti, per parlare, per confrontarci. Per fare nascere alleanze e potenziali collaborazioni.
Ricordate però che questo non è un social freddo. LS punta a essere un punto di incontro più umano e concreto, dove non serve scannarsi per l'attenzione. (segue)
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Penso che mostrerò dei contenuti di alcuni progetti futuri che possono interessare e magari qualche articolo di outcast. Non penso ci sia bisogno di promuoversi all'interno di livello segreto.
Il bello è conoscere altre persone coi loro interessi, il resto vien da sé, la bio di ogni persona c'è per quello. ❤️
Aaaaand, the instructions for my next #freeSoftWear pattern have been written, and the shirt itself is almost done! (I'm attaching the sleeves, and then I need to finish the hem and making buttonholes).
And then I only need to edit a truckload of step-by-step pictures, and add them to the instructions.
Have I ever mentioned how much I love *having released* the source code for my clothing under a Free License? :D
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And since my hands were hurting a bit from the handsewing, yesterday I started a new pattern for a machine sewn skirt, this time from a 1892 book and cut most of the fabric.
And then I discovered that I dont'have matching thread and I need to visit the haberdasher :(
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e niente, non riesco a ricondividerlo nel modo “mastodon”, ma questa cosa si deve VEDERE!
mi assumo le mie colpe e ne vado fiera (ma non è solo colpa mia :D )
Fabio
Sappiate che è colpa vostra questo. https://paste.gl-como.it/YUo6iNvW/+inline#.mp4social.gl-como.it
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I'm following instructions on a book to sew a 1830s hat.
The first thing I did this morning was running 3 + 3 meters of gathering thread. by machine.
you may want to call the sewing police.
(I'm going to wear the hat with a dress that is based on a 1920s look, anyway)
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Copyleft Won't Solve All Problems, Just Some of Them
Toward a Broad Ethical Software Licensing CoalitionWe are passionate about and dedicated to the cause of software freedom and rights because proprietary software harmfully takes control of and agency in software away from users.Software Freedom Conservancy
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Cats know the order of the universe. When there is a space, they fill it. When there is a platform, they occupy it. When there is warmth, they bask, and when there is shade, they lurk.
This might go some way to explaining the neat pentagram of cats on my front lawn when I got home one evening, and the shocked little demon that sat at its center beneath a fading tendril of smoke that curled up into the moonlit night.
Elena ``of Valhalla'' likes this.
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Signore e signori, cittadine e cittadini, procionə e cinghialə l'assemblea del collettivo puntarella.party ha deliberato per il progetto "Calendario 2023 di #ChieseBrutte".
Invitiamo tuttə coloro che vogliono partecipare a inviare le proprie foto all'account @ChieseBrutte. Le migliori 12 immagini ci terranno compagnia nel primo anno post-guerra atomica e lə autorə saranno omaggiati di un pregevole prodotto editoriale. Chi voglia collaborare al progetto con idee, assistenza tecnica, food & beverage è caldamente invitatə a scriverci.
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Was Giordano Bruno Really a “Martyr for Science”?
There are two main historical figures that are often cited as supposed “martyrs for science.” The first is the Neoplatonic philosopher and mathematician Hypatia of Alexandria, who was murdered in March 415 AD by a mob of Christians who supported Cyri…Spencer McDaniel (Tales of Times Forgotten)
Un modello eliocentrico con orbite circolari è comunque un'approssimazione abbastanza grezza del sistema solare, in cui invece le orbite sono ellittiche.
A quanto ne so, il sistema geocentrico con epicicli era già arrivato ad un livello di raffinatezza tale per cui *per i calcoli* poteva fornire risultati più precisi rispetto a quelli ottenuti con un modello eliocentrico a orbite circolari, il che è probabilmente uno dei motivi per cui il sistema geocentrico è sopravvissuto nel tempo.
Comunque, se sei interessata all'argomento, ti consiglio alcune pubblicazioni di Lucio Russo, da quelle più divulgative (Stelle atomi e velieri) a quelle più strutturate (La rivoluzione dimenticata)
In other #screenPrint news, today I tried the drawing fluid + screen filler from the kit I've bought, and made this
(pictures of a printing screen, with the word “serigrafia” (italian for screen printing) first in green drawing fluid and then as a stencil surrounded by red screen filler, written using the Stay Puft font.)
yeah, it worked, I'm not sure I'll use this technique a lot, since I'm not painting things free hand, anyway, so I can just use the UV sensitive thing anyway.
However, to make things a bit more interesting, I tried to print using two colours in a gradient:
(pictures of 8 strips of paper with the word “serigrafia” first in two stripes, magenta and black, then in a magenta -> black very irregular gradient and in the last few strips it's mostly black with bits of magenta).
The strips of paper will be glued to a cardboard box where I'm keeping my screen printing supplies (that's why I did them in the first place, beside the experimenting bits)
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Julian Andres Klode 🏳️🌈
in reply to Aurynn Shaw • • •Aurynn Shaw
in reply to Julian Andres Klode 🏳️🌈 • • •