The two main thinks I've been sewing lately are ready to be worn!
The skirt is a foundation skirt from a 1892 patternmaking manual in light blue linen/cotton with box pleated ruffles at the hem, made in a walking length (you can see the ankles! and the very modern hiking boots I'm wearing every day with late 1800 inspired clothing :D )
The shirt is a gentleman's shirt from a 1880 book, made in blue cotton with two pleats per side in the front plus the button placket and a handful of errors: I've put one of the three buttons in the wrong position (it should have been midway between the collar and the second button) and the cuffs are too small (and I've put the slit in the wrong position, wooops), so I haven't added buttons yet (and maybe I won't?)
And as I wrote in another comment, my short term plans for the shirt are to remake it in linen, probably trying to improve the armscye lines a bit, as well as fixing the cuff size.
The detachable collar from my other linen shirt of course fits, and maybe I'll make a few others in different styles, but I'm not sure they will be ready this summer.
The instructions have already been written, but I still have to edit and add the step-by-step pictures, and they are *a lot*, so publishing those will take a bit more time (but it will happen!)
And then there is a cut of lightweight red wool waiting for me in the stash, but that's in long-term plans territory :)
well, the skirt is cotton/linen, so it breathes quite well (and being a relatively wide skirt there is quite some potential for air movement). The other layer below it is a cotton petticoat with lots of ruffles, which I may or may not wear depending on the season and on how historically accurate I want to be.
Plus cotton leggings and wool socks, but those may go away as the season becomes warmer, especially the wool socks :D
I'm quite confident that it's going to be only mildly uncomfortable with any temperature that I can expect in this part of the world (in the 30°C, ish), and less uncomfortable than going around in shorts that don't protect the legs from the sun.
The shirt is a different matter: it's a relatively thick cotton and I'm wearing it as a moderately warm outer layer on top of a long sleeved t-shirt now that temperatures are around 16–18°C, it's definitely not summer wear.
But it's also a wearable mock-up for a linen shirt, and that one is going to be part of my standard summer wear, together with two other linen shirts from different decades. Again, I'm not going to be comfortable during the summer :) but it's nice to have some well breathing fabric between my body and the sun. As for layers, I'm probably going to be wearing it over either a cotton/linen jersey camisole or a linen chemise (if I manage to make it before the summer :D ), and either a bra or a summer corset in aida cloth.
There is also a video on youtube, I believe by Abby Cox, of people spending half an hour or so in the USA desert in summer while wearing fully layered historical clothing in wool, linen and silk and then measuring their skin temperature with a thermal camera, compared to the same thing while wearing single layer, short modern clothing.
Black wool desert Bedoin tents keep warmth of the soil at night. By day they shade better than lighter colors, and wick to evaporate dew, soil and human humidity for cooling by day. I learned that then experimented witn a dark wool caftan in the summer. It worked! I especially appreciated the looseness and air flow. @valhalla @bremner
@Elena ``of Valhalla'' c'entra poco con la tua gonna, ma visto che ti diletti sia col sw libero che con il modellismo, approfitto per farti una domanda. Sai se tra i metodi di modellismo (che sono sempre stati sottoposti a una ferrea protezione della proprietà intellettuale) iniziano a essercene alcuni rilasciati in creative commons?
Che io sappia è ancora una nicchia piccolina, ma ci si sta provando. Credo che ci sia anche qualcosa nella comunità di utenti di Valentina (il programma che uso per disegnare i modelli), ma non so più che fine abbia fatto (temo su facebook?) e l'autore del programma è più propenso verso la vendita degli stessi, per cui non credo che li incoraggi particolarmente.
@Elena ``of Valhalla'' @varve purtroppo i software sono così costosi da avere provocato la creazione di un mercato del sw pirata molto sviluppato (cfr https://mastodon.uno/@informapirata/107348328929101922 ). Il fatto è che al di là del software sono proprio i "metodi" di modellismo (come disegnare un cartamodello in base alle misure) a essere sottoposti a un copyright che rappresenta spesso l'unico vero asset delle scuole di modellismo
Buona domanda, a quello che leggevo in giro ad essere protetto da copyrigth è la descrizione del metodo, ma non il metodo stesso (che potrebbe essere coperto da brevetti però?), per cui seguire le istruzioni per disegnare un block con un software e pubblicare il relativo file dovrebbe essere lecito.
Parlo però di istruzioni pubblicate su libri, non di blocchi predisposti per specifici programmi.
Come software conosco valentina, che è in debian, e quello in javascript usato su freesewing: entrambi sono basati su design parametrico basato sulle misure del destinatario finale e non sulla creazione di una taglia standard e poi ottenere le altre taglie tramite grading.
Credo che la cosa li renda adatti al lavoro delle sarte (oltre che ovviamente al cucito domestico / individuale), ma non all'uso per la produzione di massa.
Ah, e ovviamente ci sono i manuali d'epoca, con cui si va sul sicuro dal punto di vista della proprietà intellettuale, ma che potrebbero avere qualche lieve controindicazioni stilistica :D
(non capisco quale possa essere il problema, basta vestirsi come se si fosse nell'ottocento :D )
Questi sono i tre che ho usato, nei README ci sono i link al manuale su archive.org, dove però ce ne sono anche molti altri:
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Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •The back of the skirt is gathered in the yoke (but in the picture it can't really be seen, since I'm also wearing my hairs *down*)
Shoes (of which the sole can be seen in the picture) are still very much not historically accurate :D
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Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •Avviso contenuto: sewing, ec
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Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •I'm also going to make some draperies to wear on top of it for a more historical look, but those are needed with less urgency.
I'm also half-way through editing and adding pictures to the instructions, so I will be publishing the source code for it *soon*. #FreeSoftWear
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Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •The detachable collar from my other linen shirt of course fits, and maybe I'll make a few others in different styles, but I'm not sure they will be ready this summer.
The instructions have already been written, but I still have to edit and add the step-by-step pictures, and they are *a lot*, so publishing those will take a bit more time (but it will happen!)
And then there is a cut of lightweight red wool waiting for me in the stash, but that's in long-term plans territory :)
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Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •https://sewing-patterns.trueelena.org/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.html
#FreeSoftWear instructions for a late 1800 foundation skirt with high #historyBounding potential.
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Rapita dagli alieni
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Avviso contenuto: sewing, ec
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David Bremner
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to David Bremner • •Plus cotton leggings and wool socks, but those may go away as the season becomes warmer, especially the wool socks :D
I'm quite confident that it's going to be only mildly uncomfortable with any temperature that I can expect in this part of the world (in the 30°C, ish), and less uncomfortable than going around in shorts that don't protect the legs from the sun.
David Bremner likes this.
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to David Bremner • •But it's also a wearable mock-up for a linen shirt, and that one is going to be part of my standard summer wear, together with two other linen shirts from different decades. Again, I'm not going to be comfortable during the summer :) but it's nice to have some well breathing fabric between my body and the sun. As for layers, I'm probably going to be wearing it over either a cotton/linen jersey camisole or a linen chemise (if I manage to make it before the summer :D ), and either a bra or a summer corset in aida cloth.
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to David Bremner • •spoiler: multiple layers in linen and wool won :D
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David Bremner
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla'' likes this.
Delib
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Avviso contenuto: #crafts
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Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •And I was surprised I had managed to write this long thread without ever mixing up skirt and shirt.
Those two words are *evil*! evil I say!
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Informa Pirata
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Sai se tra i metodi di modellismo (che sono sempre stati sottoposti a una ferrea protezione della proprietà intellettuale) iniziano a essercene alcuni rilasciati in creative commons?
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Informa Pirata • •#FreeSoftWear!
Che io sappia è ancora una nicchia piccolina, ma ci si sta provando. Credo che ci sia anche qualcosa nella comunità di utenti di Valentina (il programma che uso per disegnare i modelli), ma non so più che fine abbia fatto (temo su facebook?) e l'autore del programma è più propenso verso la vendita degli stessi, per cui non credo che li incoraggi particolarmente.
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Informa Pirata
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •@Bevilacqua Gustavino @Rapita dagli alieni @Sasha @Ben Zanin @Christine Lemmer-Webber @Craig Maloney ☕ @[:babaKatt:] Gerblin Taffer :heartQVP::sparkles2: @David Bremner @Astra: Zero Luma
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Informa Pirata • •Parlo però di istruzioni pubblicate su libri, non di blocchi predisposti per specifici programmi.
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •Credo che la cosa li renda adatti al lavoro delle sarte (oltre che ovviamente al cucito domestico / individuale), ma non all'uso per la produzione di massa.
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •(non capisco quale possa essere il problema, basta vestirsi come se si fosse nell'ottocento :D )
Questi sono i tre che ho usato, nei README ci sono i link al manuale su archive.org, dove però ce ne sono anche molti altri:
https://git.trueelena.org/patterns/blocks/tree/
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Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •like this
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Elena ``of Valhalla''
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Informa Pirata
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •@varve @Bevilacqua Gustavino @Rapita dagli alieni @Sasha @Ben Zanin @Christine Lemmer-Webber @Craig Maloney ☕ @[:babaKatt:] Gerblin Taffer :heartQVP::sparkles2: @David Bremner @Astra: Zero Luma