1840s Underwear
Posted on August 25, 2025
Tags: madeof:atoms, craft:sewing, FreeSoftWear
A bit more than a year ago, I had been thinking about making myself a cartridge pleated skirt. For a number of reasons, one of which is the historybounding potential, I’ve been thinking pre-crinoline, so somewhere around the 1840s, and that’s a completely new era for me, which means: new underwear.
Also, the 1840s are pre-sewing machine, and I was already in a position where I had more chances to handsew than to machine sew, so I decided to embrace the slowness and sew 100% by hand, not even using the machine for straight seams.
If I remember correctly, I started with the corded petticoat, looking around the internet for instructions, and then designing my own based on the practicality of using modern wide fabric from my stash (and specifically some DITTE from costumers’ favourite source of dirty cheap cotton IKEA).
Around the same time I had also acquired a sashiko kit, and I used the Japanese technique for sewing running stitches pushing the needle with a thimble that covers the base of the middle finger, and I can confirm that for this kind of things it’s great!
I’ve since worn the petticoat a few times for casual / historyBounding / folkwearBounding reasons, during the summer, and I can confirm it’s comfortable to use; I guess that during the winter it could be nice to add a flannel layer below it.
Then I proceeded with the base layers: I had been browsing throughThe workwoman's guide and that provided plenty of examples, and I selected the basic ankle-length drawers from page 53 and the alternative shift on page 47.
As for fabric, I had (and still have) a significant lack of underwear linen in my stash, but I had plenty of cotton voile that I had not used in a while: not very historically accurate for plain underwear, but quite suitable for a wearable mockup.
Working with a 1830s source had an interesting aspect: other of the usual, mildly annoying, imperial units, it also used a lot a few obsolete units, especially nails, that my qalc, my usual calculator and converter, doesn’t support. Not a big deal, because GNU units came to the rescue, and that one knows a lot of obscure and niche units, and it’s quite easy to add those that are missing1
Working on this project also made me freshly aware of something I had already noticed: converting instructions for machine sewing garments into instructions for hand sewing them is usually straightforward, but the reverse is not always true.
Starting from machine stitching, you can usually convert straight stitches into backstitches (or running backstitches), zigzag and overlocking into overcasting and get good results. In some cases you may want to use specialist hand stitches that don’t really have a machine equivalent, such as buttonhole stitches instead of simply overcasting the buttonhole, but that’s it.
Starting from hand stitching, instead, there are a number of techniques that could be converted to machine stitching, but involve a lot of visible topstitching that wasn’t there in the original instructions, or at times are almost impossible to do by machine, if they involve whipstitching together finished panels on seams that are subject to strong tension.
Anyway, halfway through working with the petticoat I cut both the petticoat and the drawers at the same time, for efficiency in fabric use, and then started sewing the drawers.
The book only provided measurements for one size (moderate), and my fabric was a bit too narrow to make them that size (not that I have any idea what hip circumference a person of moderate size was supposed to have), so the result is just wide enough to be comfortably worn, but I think that when I’ll make another pair I’ll try to make them a bit wider. On the other hand they are a bit too long, but I think that I’ll fix it by adding a tuck or two. Not a big deal, anyway.
The shift gave me a bit more issues: I used the recommended gusset size, and ended up with a shift that was way too wide at the top, so I had to take a box pleat in the center front and back, which changed the look and wear of the garment. I have adjusted the instructions to make gussets wider, and in the future I’ll make another shift following those.
Even with the pleat, the narrow shoulder straps are set quite far to the sides, and they tend to droop, and I suspect that this is to be expected from the way this garment is made. The fact that there are buttonholes on the shoulder straps to attach to the corset straps and prevent the issue is probably a hint that this behaviour was to be expected.
I’ve also updated the instructions so that they shoulder straps are a bit wider, to look more like the ones in the drawing from the book.
Making a corset suitable for the time period is something that I will probably do, but not in the immediate future, but even just wearing the shift under a later midbust corset with no shoulder strap helps.
I’m also not sure what the point of the bosom gores is, as they don’t really give more room to the bust where it’s needed, but to the high bust where it’s counterproductive. I also couldn’t find images of original examples made from this pattern to see if they were actually used, so in my next make I may just skip them.
On the other hand, I’m really happy with how cute the short sleeves look, and if2 I’ll ever make the other cut of shift from the same book, with the front flaps, I’ll definitely use these pleated sleeves rather than the straight ones that were also used at the time.
As usual, all of the patterns have been published on my website under a Free license:
- My
~/.units
file currently contains definitions for beardseconds, bananas and the more conventional Nm and NeL (linear mass density of fibres).↩︎ - yeah, right. when.↩︎
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I was in a B&B in Tuscany and there was a 1.5 l bottle of a soft drink with the label in English and German; it looked like the Swiss rivella, and the flavour was *mushrooms*.
I woke up.
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Ero in un B&B in Toscana, c'era una bottiglia di soft drink da 1.5 l con l'etichetta in inglese e tedesco, aveva l'aspetto della rivella svizzera e il gusto era *funghi*.
Mi sono svegliata.
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Intanto, nella categoria “buoni modi di spendere i fondi extra per la difesa”
ilpost.it/2025/08/26/torbiere-…
Recuperare le torbiere per difendersi da Putin
Vari stati dell'est Europa vogliono aumentare i terreni paludosi: bloccano i carri armati, oltre a contrastare il cambiamento climaticoIl Post
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Magari un po' di pietroni sulla ciclopedonale non sarebbero di troppo intralcio né ai pedoni né alle bici… e non ce li vedo i trattoristi a levarseli dal tracciato.
A funny way to promote RSS.
And shared on the fediverse, thanks to #friendica that let you follow rss feed...
Hobsplosion
Outside of Christmas Day, I don't often get to use 6+ hobs and both ovens simultaneously, but I appreciate the ability to do so when I need them.Dan Q
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Vendo a offerta libera rilegatrice manuale a spirale Rexel CB205.
C'è anche un discreto numero di spirali di plastica nera, ma devo ancora recuperarle per sapere quante e precisamente di che misure.
Vendo perché sono passata ad un sistema di rilegatura diverso (ma anche il fatto di non essere più all'università e/o in altri ambienti dove girano dispense stampate in copisteria aiuta :D )
Ritiro zona Varese.
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I've just put a debian live on an usb key, put it on the pegboard close to the home servers¹ and told my partner it was there in case he needed an emergency debian live.
And then asked him if I should put it on a cord with a fast release buckle, so that the emergency debian live could be pulled down quickly in case of emergency.
And… I need to do it, right?
¹ for which it is completely useless, because arch mismatch, but it was a convenient place
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Ho appena messo una debian live su una chiavetta, l'ho appesa al pannello portaoggetti che c'è accanto ai server casalinghi¹ e detto al mio compagno che era lì, nel caso gli servisse una live di emergenza.
E poi gli ho chiesto se dovevo attaccarla ad un cordino con sgancio rapido, in modo da poterla strappare via in fretta in caso di emergenza.
E… adesso lo devo fare, vero?
¹ per cui è totalmente inutile, dato che l'architettura è diversa, ma era un posto comodo
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@rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua potrebbe essere il passo successivo :D
(però chiusure a sgancio rapido e cordini li ho già in casa, la teca no :) )
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Tonight I dreamed that the rain and wind had thrown down a fence around our house, a couple of goats were ready to jump in and we were afraid for out tomatoes¹.
This morning I got on the fediverse and found a thread (in Italian) about heavy rains in the center of Italy and then this:
mastodon.social/@samuelpepys/1…
i.e. Samuel Pepys being kept up by the rain (and by the cat, who had jumped on the bed)
¹ the fence actually exists, but it's metal, not easily toppled wood, and there are no goats on the other side
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@Madeleine Morris out of curiosity, if you want to answer: when you sew japanese garments are you using a western style position pushing the needle with the thimble on the middle finger, or the method I've learned from shashiko instructions with the thimble at the base of the middle finger?
(this question prompted by me thinking about the cording I've done by hand in the japanese style, and how fast it it)
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Qualche giorno fa parlavo, non ricordo con chi, di #libriScolastici sotto licenza libera, e dicevo di conoscere dei progetti, ma tutti abbastanza fermi
ecco, ho ritrovato in giro un elenco *quasi* aggiornato (ultima modifica nel 2022):
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Meanwhile, yesterday evening I died. Or rather, they let me die. And by “let” I mean “piled monsters on me until I died, and then looted my dead body”.
And then on the next turn, with the new cards I had just picked I won.
I am thankful to @Diego Roversi for getting the cat companion when looting, however. It was just a +2, but it was a cat, and I didn't want him to go into the discard pile!
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rrdtool and Trixie
Posted on August 17, 2025
Tags: madeof:bits
TL;DL: if you’re using rrdtool on a 32 bit architecture like armhf make an XML dump of your RRD files just before upgrading to Debian Trixie.
I am an old person at heart, so the sensor data from my home monitoring system1 doesn’t go to one of those newfangled javascript-heavy data visualization platforms, but into good old RRD files, using rrdtool to generate various graphs.
This happens on the home server, which is an armhf single board computer2, hosting a few containers3.
So, yesterday I started upgrading one of the containers to Trixie, and luckily I started from the one with the RRD, because when I rebooted into the fresh system and checked the relevant service I found it stopped on ERROR: '<file>' is too small (should be <size> bytes)
.
Some searxing later, I’ve4 found this was caused by the 64-bit time_t transition, which changed the format of the files, and that (somewhat unexpectedly) there was no way to fix it on the machine itself.
What needed to be doneinstead was to export the data on an XML dump before the upgrade, and then import it back afterwards.
Easy enough, right? If you know about it, which is why I’m blogging this, so that other people will know in advance :)
Anyway, luckily I still had the other containers on bookworm, so I copied the files over there, did the upgrade, and my home monitoring system is happily running as before.
- of course one has a self-built home monitoring system, right?↩︎
- an A20-OLinuXino-MICRO, if anybody wants to know.↩︎
- mostly for ease of migrating things between different hardware, rather than insulation, since everything comes from Debian packages anyway.↩︎
- and by I I really mean Diego, as I was still into denial / distractions mode.↩︎
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ilpost.it/2025/08/13/giustizia…
nel caso a qualcuno servisse qualcosa da rispondere a chi dice cose tipo “mandano i bambini a rubare così non vanno in galera” o simili
Come funziona la giustizia per chi ha meno di 14 anni
Per il nostro ordinamento bambini e ragazzini non sono imputabili, ma non vuol dire che dopo un reato non accada nienteIl Post
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unita.it/2025/08/14/litalia-e-…
L’Italia è profondamente razzista, i rom sono meglio di voi: ma chi volete rieducare?
Caro Direttore, ho letto il suo editoriale sui bambini rom che hanno rubato una macchina e hanno investito e ucciso una signora. Ho sentito la sua sincera indignazione.Dijana Pavlovic (L'Unità)
I've just realized that on my first #DebConf, in 2015, some people was using their (thinkpad) laptops as a tray to carry their meals. on my second DebConf, 2025, I didn't see anybody doing that.
I'd say that laptop design has gone really wrong somewhere in the process.
(this may be a bit of a subtoot)
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yesterday: watching a video sponsored by a reinforced-toe work boots company of some sort
this morning: a tool fell from the work table as we were cutting some wood, straight on @diego@social.gl-como.it slipper-clad foot
(it was a lightweight tool, nobody was hurt)
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MOAR Pattern Weights
Posted on August 9, 2025
Tags: madeof:atoms
I’ve collected some more Standard Compliantstickers.
Some went on my laptop, of course, but some were selected for another tool I use relatively often: more pattern weights like the ones I blogged about in February.
And of course the sources:
- the stickers I designed;
- instructions for making the pattern weights(includes a link to the 3d model);
- source for the cat sticker;
- I couldn’t find the sources for the blue mobian sticker, only for other variants.
I have enough washers to make two more weights, and even more stickers, but the printer is currently not in use, so I guess they will happen a few months or so in the future.
@Oblomov I'm not going to change laptop, this one is still pretty new (to me)!
other than that, probably make more pattern weights, as I can always print more? :D (I'd need to get a new box to keep them in, as the current one is full, too :D )
The laptop lid is covered by a vinyl sheet, so in theory I could remove it, put a new one on and start again, but I don't think I want to do anything like that (the vinyl sheet was put in place by the shop that I've bought the — reconditioned — laptop from)
Also, saving stickers for a future laptop is of course an option.
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@Oblomov coincidentally, if anybody has an European source for fridge magnet bases in the shape of an hexagon 5.08 cm tall, I'd be happy to hear about it :D
(I think I can get sheet and cut them, but if pre-cut existed it would be easier)
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apparently, wasabi paste¹ in low-fat² yogurt goes well with smoked fish (on rye bread)
¹ the thing with low single digit percentage of actual wasabi
² nope, I can't have butter, nor sour cream
a quanto pare la pasta al wasabi¹ nello yogurt magro² sta bene coi pesci affumicati (sul pane di segale)
¹ quella cosa che contiene una percentuale ad una cifra, e pure bassa, di vero wasabi
² no, non posso mangiare il burro, e neanche la panna acida
Oblomov reshared this.
@5Ub-Z3r0 ce ne sono totalmente senza
quella che ho in casa aveva tipo il 2% di wasabi negli ingredienti (erano sulla scatola, non sul tubetto, e temo di averla buttata, per cui non posso controllare)
@5Ub-Z3r0 è la marca S&B, dovrebbe essere questa: sushitalia.com/shop-on-line/pr…
(non conosco il sito, io l'ho comprata in un supermercato etnico)
lì il wasabi è elencato negli ingredienti ma senza percentuale (però è bello in fondo, compatibile con i numeri citati prima)
onestamente non ho idea se in quelle quantià faccia veramente differenza, il grosso degli ingredienti alla fin fine sono gli stessi della pasta che non hai visto il wasabi neanche in foto
Ma sai che, pensandoci, ha senso?
Alla fine anche il cetriolo ha un retrogusto "pescioso", e infatti la salsa tzatziki è la morte sua!
Mi hai mooolto incuriosito!
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I grandi dibattiti di Internet non sono grandi e non sono dibattiti
Anche lo spunto più debole può diventare una discussione prevedibile con posizioni assurde e senza interlocutori realiIl Post
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Una persona. Una sola lamentela.
gcn.ie/irish-museum-responds-r…
Irish museum responds to “misconstrued” reports it removed film with gay kiss • GCN
A Derek Jarman film featuring a gay kiss was the subject of a complaint while it was on display at the Irish Museum of Modern Art.Alice Linehan (GCN)
array_map(?callable $callback, array $array, array ...$arrays): array
array_filter(array $array, ?callable $callback = null, int $mode = 0): array
why.
Yesterday I had been reading yet another late Victorian tailoring manual, and this morning I was telling @Diego Roversi about the part when the author claims that there are some measurements that would be useful do draft certain garments, but a (male, of course) tailor can't take them on a female customer, and there are ways to guess them. But at least in one case, he suggested doing the obvious thing, and just ask the customer to have her husband or maid take the measure.
And I commented that everybody who was buying cycling or riding trousers from a tailor was living with a husband, or a mother, or a sister, beside having a maid.
Unless she was unmarried, and only had brothers, and her mother had died (while giving birth, of course) and she was running her father's house because he had not remarried yet.
Or even, she was unmarried, only had brothers, she was running her father's house because he didn't want to remarry and she was quite happy with the situation because she didn't want to marry herself but wanted to keep living with that very close friend (but just a friend!) who had been living in their house for quite some time now. But then, her not-a-lover could very well take her inseam measurements.
Things escalate quickly, right?
@Vi 💙 and now I need to read the steamy romance short story involving those two and the inseam measurement.
for
reasons
scientific reasons
purely scientific reasons
Roll Top Backpack, Handsewn
Posted on July 25, 2025
Tags: madeof:atoms, craft:sewing, FreeSoftWear
I might be slightly insane? Or am I going to prove something about the nature and accessibility of sewing and MYOG1 as a hobby?
I love my modular backpack, but it has a very modern look that is maybe not the best thing when otherwise dressed in historybounding dress, and it’s also a bit bigger than I planned or needed it to be.
So, when one of the shops I buy from had some waterproof cotton canvas on sale I failed my saving throw against temptations and bought a few meters, with the intent to make myself a backpack in a different style.
It needs to be a backpack, because my back doesn’t like asymmetrical bags2, and as far as I know 19th century backpacks weren’t the most comfortable things, so I decided to go for a vaguely timeless roll top model that has the added advantage not to require a lot of hardware for the closure, just a few D-rings.
Leather straps would look cool, but also require some tools that I still don’t have, so I decided to look for some cotton webbing, and when I finally found some in 25 mm and 50 mm width I could finally start on the project.
Except for one thing: thread. As much as I believe that regular n°50 cotton thread got a bad reputation from sellers who decided to cut quality in favour of profit, it is not up to the task of sewing a backpack. Nor that I’d use regular sew-all poly thread either.
I do have some of the thread I used for my other backpack, which would have been strong enough, but it’s also in black, which isn’t exactly the look I was aiming for on the natural / ecru colour of both the canvas and the webbing. I also misremembered it as only being available in that colour (it isn’t), so I wasn’t tempted into doing a full online order of technical materials just for that.
On the other hand, I did have in my stash some strong thread I could trust for this job, in natural / ecru. There was only one problem: it was 33×2 Tex linen, and not suitable for the sewing machine. You can’t handsew a backpack.
Or can you? Of course it’s going to be much slower, but I’m still in a situation where I have more time and space for handsewing than I have for machine sewing. And as for strength, my perception is that for the same stitch length an handsewn backstitch is stronger than a machine lockstitch, or at least it is more effort to unpick (and thus harder to accidentally unravel if the thread breaks).
And so I tried.
And it worked.
Having to backstitch everything instead of being able to use a running backstitch of course meant that it was slower than other sewing projects, and any time there were more than two layers of fabric I had to use the stabbing motion rather than the sewing one, which is even slower, but other than a few places with many layers of both fabric and webbing it wasn’t hard.
And to be fair, the seams were fewer and shorter than other sewing projects, and with the usual interruptions and uneven time availability it was done in less than a month, which is somewhat typical for one of my handsewn projects.
It may have been because of the pattern, but I think it’s relevant that it was also easier than other backpacks I’ve made, with significantly less cursing, even when doing seams that would have been quite fiddly when sewn by machine.
I have to admit that now I’m tempted to plan another backpack using the same pattern or a slight variation, sewn by machine in a different fabric, to see the difference in the time it takes and to check if the changes I think would make it easier to sew by machine are actually the right thing to do. But maybe I’ll wait a bit, other projects are in the queue.
The pattern is as usual online, released as #FreeSoftWear.
Having used it for a while, I have to say that it is just the right size to fit all the things I usually carry,
The fact that it only opens from the top means that finding things that have fallen to the very bottom involves a bit of rummaging, but not having to change a zipper every few years when (not if) it breaks is also very nice, so I’m not sure which shape of backpack I prefer.
The soft back of course is an issue when the backpack is filled with small items, but the molle webbing is there exactly because I have plans to solve it, beside the trivial “put something flat towards the back”.
As an object, I’m happy with the result. As a project, it was way more than successful, exceeding all expectations, especially for something somewhat experimental like this one was.
- Make Your Own Gear, i.e. sewing or otherwise constructing outdoorish equipment.↩︎
- at least not if I fill them with stuff as I usually do with my backpack :D↩︎
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You can’t handsew a backpack.
Or can you?
Look at leather sewing and the tools they use.
Thanks @Elena ``of Valhalla'' - I love reading about sewing by hand.
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working on #confy while attending #guadec2025 :
Until now, schedule data was updated when opening a conference, if the cache was expired and the device was online. This means that if you keep confy opened and schedule changes, you'll never get any update.
Latest code update automatically the current open conference schedule when cache expires (if online)... thinking about it, maybe there could be some sort of "diff" when something changes...
The update process now also should delete removed events from cache, hopefully (like the duplicated talks in that video...)
A small bug introduced recently that prevented to correctly open talk detail page from "next up" notification has been also fixed.
Meanwhile I was thinking that this thing needs a full rewrite on how data is stored. Right now every conferences gets its sqlite db in user's ".cache" folder. The db store schedule data and user stared talks. This means that if you clear cache, you lose you stars.
This data should be saved in another place, be another db in ".local/state" or maybe in dconf... 🤔
/me, this morning:
and they are going to close the underground between Cadorna and Garibaldi. the stations, not the generals.
and now I'm thinking about a machine that turns a proverbially bad general into a competent and ideals-led one.
(note for people who will be in Milan next month: check the actual closures, that was just the bit of interest to me, but there will be disruptions everywhere)
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@Xab ecco, non ho visto se han chiuso qualcosa anche su quelle linee
ma tutto sommato Como - Milano a piedi non è così lunga, dovrebbero essere un paio di giorni, no? :D
(OSM mi dice 47 ore per fare Como - Genova, 26 per fare Como - Pavia e 14 ore per fare Como - Milano; soprattutto per la tratta Pavia - Genova non ho idea se tenga conto delle pendenze però)
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Things I Have Learnt At DebConf
Posted on July 24, 2025
Tags: madeof:bits
An unsorted list, including some I already knew, but was reminded of.
dpkg-mergechangelogs
exists.- Sewing your own shirt, posting it on planet and wearing it on the first day of DebConf, is more effective than a badge for making people recognise you.
- I need to look into a number of tools for testings things (and try to start using some of those at $DAYJOB).
- Masks are good. masks protect you from debbugs. masks protect you from ring cameras in the hotel you’re staying on the day after debconf.
- It’s really nice to be chatting of random topics during lunch and discover that you are talking to the maintainer of a package of which you are one of the very few users! (the latter bit needs to be changed :) ).
- I need to look into sequoia and all of the modern OpenPGP stuff.
- Even if I don’t have a lot of money, apparently I have even less sense (there will be blog posts on the topic in the mid-term future).
- I can go to a talk about AIand not hate the speaker (yeah, the bar is pretty low there :D ). The automatic subtitles still failed in the same way as automatic subtitles always fail.
- Debian gets used in really cool places.
- At times it is a bit — or a lot — dysfunctional, but Debian still feels like a family.
And I still haven’t watched the recordings of those talks that I couldn’t (or decided not to, because the hallway track was more interesting) attend.
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/me, a person with an EU phone, currently in the EU, but living near the Swiss border> WHY is internet not working on this phone? we are in the EU!
/me, a day later, checks the mobile settings
Data Roaming. off.
sometimes, when things don't work it's not the #PinePhone's fault (actually, most of the time with internet not working it isn't, it's me not having remembered to pay for it)
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FreeSoftWear
Posted on July 18, 2025
Tags: madeof:bits, topic:debian, FreeSoftWear
There may have been a lightning talk.
Things similar to the rest of this article may have been said.
I think that most people in this room care about running Freely licensed software on their computers.
Some probably would also like, when possible, to use Freely licensed hardware, or to enjoy Freely licensed art.
And then there are very few people who decided that they’d prefer to wear DFSG-Free clothing.
If you make your own, it’s not that different from software: you get a pattern, the source code, and compilation instructions. The compilation process is a bit manual, but there are a lot of people who enjoy that.
It doesn’t have to be sewing, it can be knitting, crochet, any craft that can be used to build something that you wear and has patterns or other kinds of source code. I’d say that a certain tartan also qualifies.
If you’re interested in the idea, these are the places I know of that do FreeSoftWear: two are personal websites, included mine, freesewing is a community and an online platform to design patterns.
And debian has some useful software, including valentina, for sewing patterns, and kxstitch for cross-stitch and other counted thread embroidery.
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Federated instant messaging, 100% debianized
Posted on July 15, 2025
Tags: madeof:bits, topic:xmpp, topic:debian
This is an approximation of what I told at my talk Federated instant messaging, 100% debianizedat DebConf 25, for people who prefer reading text. There will also be a video recording, as soon as it’s ready :) at the link above.
Communicating is a basic human need, and today some kind of computer-mediated communication is a requirement for most people, especially those in this room.
With everything that is happening, it’s now more important than ever that these means of communication aren’t controlled by entities that can’t be trusted, whether because they can stop providing the service at any given time or worse because they are going to abuse it in order to extract more profit.
If only there was a well established chat system based on some standard developed in an open way, with all of the features one expects from a chat system but federated so that one can choose between many different and independent providers, or even self-hosting.
But wait, it does exist!
I’m not talking about IRC, I’m talking about XMPP!
While it has been around since the last millennium, it has not remained still, with hundred of XMPP Extension Protocols, or XEPs that have been developed to add all of the features that nobody in 1999 imagined we could need in Instant Messaging today, and more, such as IoT devices or even social networks.
There is a myth that this makes XMPP a mess of incompatible software, but there is an XEP for that: XEP-0479: XMPP Compliance Suites 2023, which is a list of XEPs that needs to be supported by Instant Messaging servers and clients, including mobile ones, and all of the recommended ones will mostly just work.
These include conversations.im on android, dino on linux, which also works pretty nicely on linux phones, gajim for a more fully featured option that includes the kitchen sink, profanity for text interface fanatics like me, and I’ve heard that monal works decently enough on the iThings.
One thing that sets XMPP apart from other federated protocols, is that it has already gone through the phase where everybody was on one verybig server, which then cut out federation, and we’ve learned from the experience. These days there are still a few places that cater to newcomers, like account.conversations.im/, snikket.org/(which also includes tools to make it easier to host your own instance) and quicksy.im/, but most people are actually on servers of a manageable size.
My strong recommendation is for community hosting: not just self-hosting for yourself, but finding a community you feel part of and trust, and share a server with them, whether managed by volunteers from the community itself, or by a paid provider.
If you are a Debian Developer, you already have one: you can go todb.debian.org/ , select “Change rtc password” to set your own password, wait an hour or so and you’re good to go, as described at the bottom of wiki.debian.org/Teams/DebianSo….
A few years ago it had remained a bit behind, but these days it’s managed by an active team, and if you’re missing some features, or just want to know what’s happening with it, you can join their BoF on Friday afternoon (and also thank them for their work).
But for most people in this room, I’d also recommend finding a friend or two who can help as a backup, and run a server for your own families or community: as a certified lazy person who doesn’t like doing sysadmin jobs, I can guarantee it’s perfectly feasible, about in the same range of difficulty as running your own web server for a static site.
The two most popular servers for this, prosody and ejabberd, are well maintained in Debian, and these days there isn’t a lot more to do than installing them, telling them your hostname, setting up a few DNS entries, and then you mostly need to keep the machine updated and very little else.
After that, it’s just applying system security updates, upgrading everything every couple years (some configuration updates may be needed, but nothing major) and maybe helping some non-technical users, if you are hosting your non-technical friends (the kind who would need support on any other platform).
Question time (including IRC questions) included which server would be recommended for very few users (I use prosody and I’m very happy with it, but I believe ejabberd works also just fine), then somebody reminded me that I had forgotten to mention chatons.org/ , which lists free, ethical and decentralized services, including xmpp ones.
I was also asked a comparison with matrix, which does cover a very similar target as XMPP, but I am quite biased against it, and I’d prefer to talk well of my favourite platform than badly of its competitor.
museomils.it/inagibilita-dei-l…
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INAGIBILITA' DEI LOCALI DEL MUSEO - M.I.L.S. - Museo Industrie Lavoro Saronnese
AVVISO DA LUNEDÌ 30 GIUGNO 2025 IL MILS (MUSEO DELLE INDUSTRIE E DEL LAVORO SARONNESE) NON SARÀ PIÙ VISITABILE.Museomils (M.I.L.S. - Museo Industrie Lavoro Saronnese)
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I was baking knäckebröt, I have a bag full of freselle and started to think, as one does, of empires
in southern Italy they have freselle, and they taste good. in Sweden they have crispbread, and it tastes good. The British had hardtack, and they had to keep conquering places to be able to eat.
and going back to the Roman empire, as one does, the Greeks had good bread, the Romans were quite good at the logistics of processing wheat on the march, but they were known for making bad bread.
and now the USA (other than some privileged parts of the population) have ultraprocessed bread.
I think that a pattern starts to form.
(this probably only applies to parts of the world that are wheat-based, rather than maize- or rice-based)
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stavo preparando del knäckebröt, ho un sacchetto pieno di freselle, e come di tanto in tanto succede mi son messa a pensare agli imperi
in sud Italia hanno le freselle, e sono buone. in Svezia hanno il knäckebröt, ed è buono. nell'impero britannico avevano le gallette, e dovevano continuare a conquistare nuovi posti per riuscire a mangiare.
il passaggio successivo, ovviamente, è l'impero romano, e all'epoca i greci avevano del pane buono, i romani erano efficienti nel lavorare il grano mentre erano in marcia, ma erano anche noti per non saper fare pane decente.
e adesso negli stati uniti (ad eccezione di qualche fascia priviliegiata della popolazione) hanno il pane industriale.
Inizio a vedere un pattern.
(probabilmente si applica solo alle parti del mondo basate sul grano e non sul mais o sul riso)
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My attempts to burn myself with hot (bees)wax failed!
Also, my attempts to melt beeswax in the solar oven were successful and much faster than I expected, and pouring it into an old ikea chocolates mold also seems to have worked (I'm waiting until it has completely cooled down before taking it out of the mold)
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it worked!
they came out of the mold pretty easily, they are a good size for waxing thread, and they look nicer than the crumbly lump worked together with my hands that I've been using for years :D
yes, it's dark, but I've been using this wax for ages even on white thread for sewing white fabric and I've never had discoloration problems. I hope I haven't just cursed myself :D
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rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua reshared this.
@Bomkatt when sewing by hand I wax the thread by running it over a small lump of wax to help prevent breakages and make it easier to untangle any tangle. It's especially important with linen thread, but it also helps with cotton.
years ago I bought a lump of beeswax from a local honey seller, and I've always wanted to melt it into molds, but only actually found the time / had the equipment ready to do it today (I was procrastinating doing other things :D )
(they are also part of my “encouraging people to handsew” kit, and having them in a nice shape looks better than the shapeless thing I used to make)
(they won't remain good looking for long, but making them wasn't a big effort)
/me, avendo a che fare con la stampante> ma pérche?
/me> ma anche un po' perkele
(no, non parlo Finlandese, credo di conoscere tre parole in Finlandese e una è il nome di un cibo)
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Emergency Camisole
Posted on July 4, 2025
Tags: madeof:atoms, craft:sewing, FreeSoftWear
And this is the time when one realizes that she only has one white camisole left. And it’s summer, so I’m wearing a lot of white shirts, and I always wear a white camisole under a white shirt (unless I’m wearing a full chemise).
Not a problem, I have a good pattern for a well fitting camisolethat I’ve done multiple times, I don’t even need to take my measurements and draft things, I can get some white jersey from the stash and quickly make a few.
From the stash. Where I have a roll of white jersey and one of off-white jersey. It’s in the inventory. With the “position” field set to a place that no longer exists. uooops.
But I have some leftover lightweight (woven) linen fabric. Surely if I cut the pattern as is with 2 cm of allowance and then sew it with just 1 cm of allowance it will work even in a woven fabric, right?
Wrong.
I mean, it would have probably fit, but it was too tight to squeeze into, and would require adding maybe a button closure to the front. feasible, but not something I wanted.
But that’s nothing that can’t be solved with the Power of Insertion Lace, right?
One dig through the Lace Stash1 and some frantic zig-zag sewing later, I had a tube wide enough for me to squiggle in, with lace on the sides not because it was the easiest place for me to put it, but because it was the right place for it to preserve my modesty, of course.
Encouraged by this, I added a bit of lace to the front, for the look of it, and used some more insertion lace for the straps, instead of making them out of fabric.
And, it looks like it can work. I plan to wear it tonight, so that I can find out whether there is something that chafes or anything, but from a quick test it feels reasonable.
At bust level it’s now a bit too wide, and it gapes a bit under the arms, but I don’t think that it’s going to cause significant problems, and (other than everybody on the internet) nobody is going to see it, so it’s not a big deal.
I still have some linen, but I don’t think I’m going to make another one with the same pattern: maybe I’ll try to do something with a front opening, but I’ll see later on, also after I’ve been looking for the missing jersey in a few more potential places.
As for now, the number of white camisoles I have has doubled, and this is progress enough for today.
- with many thanks to my mother’s friend who gave me quite a bit of vintage cotton lace.↩︎
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I like adding triangular side gussets to expand patterns - they’re more subtle and v comfy- but the lace is so PRETTY
@soil gremlin here the problem was that even the bit at the bust level was a bit too tight to be able to get into the camisole, even if it was the right size for wearing it, so a triangular side gusset wouldn't have helped a lot; it really needed the elasticity of knits (or some buttons)
and also: lace! all the lace!
Elena ``of Valhalla'' likes this.
@soil gremlin yeah, I'm seriously considering either doing another one with buttons, or making a crochet yoke and then a rectangle for the body basically like this, but much shorter and without sleeves: sewing-patterns.trueelena.org/…
the latter sounds better, but is not going to be a quick project, because I'm extremely slow at crochet
and now @Diego Roversi gave me back MY camisole that somehow ended up in his underwear drawer, and compared to this morning the number of white camisoles I have has *tripled*!
(I knew I had another one…)
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Some work in progress in Confy
You know, Confy: the Gnome-based, mobile-friendly Conferences schedule viewer
Some days ago I posted a screenshot about an experiment I was doing with #confy , which atm is on hold.
I'm still looking about the best way to draw a calendar view which can be zoomed in and out fast.
This is using Gtk.Snapshot
to draw boxes and Pango.Layout
to draw text.
It's still not fast enough with large conferences (mostly because I want to keep the text the same size and just change the boxes...)
Meanwhile I made some other things: some are papercuts, some are to try to have cleaner code, and some are quite big changes:
Actions get enabled/disable correctly per context
"search" action is disabled until an event is opened, and "copy" action is enabled only while a details page is shown.
Small change but prevents some errors.
Update recent list when deleting custom event from menu
Custom event in the "open" window can be removed. Now the entry is also removed from the recent events list.
Navigation sidebar has been updated
Now items does not get out of order after opening an Event with one already opened. Previously, items not needed (eg. 'Traks' where the Event has no tracks) were removed and re-added, which caused them to appear out of order.
Now the items are hidden and shown as needed, thus they do not change order anymore. Plus they are now defined in sidebar widget template. More clear and nice.
Navigation between pages has been revisited.
Originally, every talk details page opened was simply pushed on the stack. This caused some trouble as details page can link to other details pages via overlapping talks, which where pushed on the stack too. But overlapping talks are 'circular' as if Talk A overlaps with Talk B, also Talk B overlaps with Talk A, which can lead to very long stack to navigate back, e.g.:
List -> Talk A -> Talk B -> Talk C -> Talk A -> Talk C
In latest revisions, clicking on an overlapping talk was simply updating the page in place, losing navigation (and a nice transition between pages):
List -> Talk A
user clicks on overlapping Talk B
List -> Talk B
Now, we are back to pushing pages on the stack, but if an event has ben already pushed to the stack, we pop back to that page:
List -> Talk A
user clicks on overlapping Talk B
List -> Talk A -> Talk B
user clicks on overlapping Talk C
List -> Talk A -> Talk B -> Talk C
user clicks on overlapping Talk A
List -> Talk A
From my esaustive user testing (me while developing) looks like this could be a nice solution. The animation on page push/pop helps the user to keep track on where is going. At least, it helps me. Get used to it. :)
This is also relevant for the new Search page navigation.
Search can be toggled
Search action now is toggleable (is this a word?), the "search" button in the headerbar is now a togglebutton. One click opens the search, another click closes the search (as does ctrl-f
).
When search is opened, the search page is pushed on the stack. Closing the search pop the page (and popping the page closes the search).
From the search page, talk details pages follow the same logic as before, but in a separate 'group'. That is, if the search page is opened from a detail page, and from the search page the same talk is clicked, we don't pop back to the already pushed page (which closes the search) but a new detail page is pushed on the stack:
List -> Talk A -> Talk B
user clicks the "search" button
List -> Talk A -> Talk B -> Search
user clicks talk C
List -> Talk A -> Talk B -> Search -> Talk C
user clicks overlapping talk A
List -> Talk A -> Talk B -> Search -> Talk C -> Talk A
user clicks the "search" button
List -> Talk A -> Talk B
I hope this make sense and it's usable :)
( btw: the search entry still get focused when the search page pops in. I'm quite proud I managed to keep that :) )
Updated Preference dialog
The design has been moved to template, with a simple custom widget to set caches duration.
Option to clear the recent opened events list has been added.
Everything is in git if anyone want to test it, maybe on some mobile devices, maybe during one of the upcoming conferences...
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Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Fabio • •@Fabio now the question is: does it have sounds effects, and did you record yourself saying “pew pew” for them?
if not, that's “not yet”, right?
Fabio
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •like this
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Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Fabio • •