It begins.
I'm actually not sure whether I'll go fully #1890s with this jacket (with moderation :D) or I'll keep the sleeves fitting: I'll decide after I've sewed a mock-up.
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It begins.
I'm actually not sure whether I'll go fully #1890s with this jacket (with moderation :D) or I'll keep the sleeves fitting: I'll decide after I've sewed a mock-up.
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Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •but valhalla, you may ask, what happened to the red shirt you were sewing?
yeees, weeeellll.
it's still missing just the reinforcement patches, I may have been procrastinating them :D
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rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •🤣
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua • •sewing group reshared this.
Abigail
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Abigail • •@Abigail the 1980s are pretty much vintage already, it doesn't take that much to become historical sewing :D
(yes, I was already there in the 1980s, (too?) even if I was too young for fashion :D )
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Abigail
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla'' likes this.
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •I'm not proud of this layout, but it's just the mockup, I'll do better with the real fabic (where the pieces will probably be shorter, so I would have had to change the layout anyway)
#sewing
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Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •And something tells me that I've attached the sleeve to the wrong side on the mock up :(
it's just basted, but still.
at least I hope that it's attached to the wrong side, because otherwise it's significantly wrong.
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rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua • •@Rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua both the sleeve and the bodice are sewn with the allowances on the outside: this way it's easier to move the seams while fitting the mock up and mark any change.
Any fitting done on the real fabric will happen with the seams allowances towards the inside, of course.
#sewing
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rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla'' likes this.
Shield Maiden
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Shield Maiden • •@Shield Maiden I've drafted a block based on The cutters’ practical guide to the cutting of ladies’ garments archive.org/details/cutterspra… (which I have already used on another jacket), changed the front (successfully) to have an opening and tried to enlarge the sleeve with dubious results.
I'm taking inspiration from various fashion plates and existing garments, but not from a specific one (and the sources vary a bit in the dates, between the second half of the #1880s and the first half of the #1890s).
And I already know that the straight 1880s sleeve from that jacket block works, so I may be tempted to just go with it.
#sewing #HistoricalSewing
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Shield Maiden
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla'' likes this.
Shield Maiden
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla'' likes this.
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Shield Maiden • •@Shield Maiden that's really nice!
the sleeves from the cutters’ practical guide are also a bit curved: they aren't on the true bias, but not on the straight grain either (and I can confirm from my other jacket that they really follow nicely the line of the arm)
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gailsedotes
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •yeah, I've compared to a finished jacket and I had indeed attached the left sleeve to the right armscye :D
oh, the joys of #HistoricalSewing and of not adding alignment notches to the patterns you've drafted :D
#sewing #patternDrafting
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Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •*surprisingly* sewing the sleeve to the right side has made it fit :D
I will have to add some structure to the top of the sleeve to prevent it from deflating as it is doing in the mock-up, but I think I can say it fits and proceed with cutting the real fabric.
Which I got for cheap as a bolt end, but was still expensive fabric, so I'm absolutely not trying to postpone the moment, why do you ask? :D (it's going to be made in dark grey — I think it's called — tropical wool, lined in gray silk, and the center will have the option to be filled by at least two different plastrons)
#sewing #HistoricalSewing
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Giselle's very old account
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Giselle's very old account • •sewing group reshared this.
Giselle's very old account
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Will make sure to keep my eyes open if I come across any info like that. Interesting that shoulder rolls are tailoring, I didn't know that. But then I'm a total amateur.
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Giselle's very old account • •@Giselle as structures, I've found these from the 1830s:
metmuseum.org/art/collection/s…
collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O22…
and I know that there are some similar ones (as well as ones with the wire visible) from the 1890s, but I can only find pinterest links for most of them, except for
metmuseum.org/art/collection/s…
#HistoricalSewing
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Elena ``of Valhalla''
Unknown parent • •sewing group reshared this.
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •Have I ever mentioned how much I love *having marked* the seamlines on fabric with tailor's tacks?
and how much I hate actually doing it? :D
it took me the whole day to lay the pattern on the fabric and start doing that little bit, thanks to interruptions and procrastionation.
(also, apparently I got the problematic update on my #pinephone that broke taking pictures :D )
#sewing #HistoricalSewing
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Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •ok, apparently the accepted way to get a pattern to be transferred on fabric with tailor's tacks is to remain in the same room with the fabric and actually do it, with no interruptions. who could have thought!
(yes, the green tint on the photo still comes from the #pinephone and its updated software)
now it's tea time, and then maybe before this evening I'll cut everything out and move on to cutting the lining. if I don't have to do other things (such as maybe look at what happened to the pinephone camera software? maybe).
#sewing #HistoricalSewing
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Ailbhe
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •"ok, apparently the accepted way to get a pattern to be transferred on fabric with tailor's tacks is to remain in the same room with the fabric and actually do it, with no interruptions"
Sounds incredibly unfair, definitely write to the management
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:gnu:+bonifartius 𒂼𒄄
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla'' likes this.
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to :gnu:+bonifartius 𒂼𒄄 • •@:gnu: bonifartius 𒂼𒄄 well, another other thing I've done today is remove the core from some high-vis paracord with the idea one day¹ to sew it as if it was soutache on a cloak, so… it may not be *that* unlikely? :D
¹ I've been *very* slow in removing that core.
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:gnu:+bonifartius 𒂼𒄄
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla'' likes this.
soil gremlin
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla'' likes this.
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to soil gremlin • •@soil gremlin the ladies' jacket from archive.org/details/cutterspra… archive.org/details/cutterspra… , cut at waist length (and with the sleeve head enlarged, and the front cut, of course).
Cutting for simpler things, where one can just cut without marking the seam lines isn't that bad, but any time one is doing something a bit more structured, yeah.
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Giselle's very old account
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Giselle's very old account • •@Giselle it's just a software issue, it will be fixed (that's what I get by using an unconventional phone, I guess).
I also took pictures with the real camera, but those require downloading from the card and editing and… :D
Now that you mention it, they do look otherworldly, I like it!
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Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •sewing group reshared this.
MagdoLena9
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to MagdoLena9 • •@MagdoLena9 lol, no, that would be too easy :D
I'm drafting them from period instructions, or rather I drafted them from period instructions in summer 2021, made one mockup and then put them on hold because I wasn't sure about the fabric to use and I had more urgent projects.
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MagdoLena9
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to MagdoLena9 • •@MagdoLena9 don't hold your breath, it may go back to the wait list.
but one day a pair of cycling knickers will happen, and I will post about it :)
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Rivikah
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Rivikah • •@Rivikah the first mockup I did, after following the drafting instructions was pretty fitting.
For the second attempt I enlarged them (and then I didn't do the second mockup).
Now, they are below-the-knee length, so each leg is just above 80 cm long and it would probably fit on the fabric (there is some leeway because it's the leftovers from the jacket, it's not a straight cut).
The two leg sides for the wider version are not going to fit on the fabric side by side, but the original one may, maybe, possibly with a tiny bit of piecing, or by using the wiggle room.
I would have to be creative with the waistband, but I think I can get the various facings etc. from the jacket scraps, probably, maybe.
First I'll finish the jacket, so if disasters happen I have a safety net to recut pieces, and if I find I need something more for the accessories I can get it.
But afterwards, if I still have this much fabric, I can probably try it.
Unless I get other ideas.
#sewing #HistoricalSewing
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Giselle's very old account
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla'' likes this.
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •Almost all of the fabric (main, lining, interfacings) has been cut.
Now I should be basting all pieces together with their interfacing and linings, but that requires being at the table, and this evening I'm attending fossandcrafts.org/hack-and-cra… and need something to do in front of the computer, so I've started working on one of the plastrons, the one with soutache decorations.
And now I'm asking myself: why can't I accept a soutache decoration where the braid is placed on top of previous parts of the braid? why do I have to insist on it being a proper knot? :D
(there are pictures in the good camera. one day they will be copied to the computer and posted in this thread. this is not that day :) )
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