It begins.
I'm actually not sure whether I'll go fully #1890s with this jacket (with moderation :D) or I'll keep the sleeves fitting: I'll decide after I've sewed a mock-up.
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It begins.
I'm actually not sure whether I'll go fully #1890s with this jacket (with moderation :D) or I'll keep the sleeves fitting: I'll decide after I've sewed a mock-up.
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Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •yeees, weeeellll.
it's still missing just the reinforcement patches, I may have been procrastinating them :D
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rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •🤣
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua • •sewing group reshared this.
Abigail
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Abigail • •(yes, I was already there in the 1980s, (too?) even if I was too young for fashion :D )
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Abigail
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla'' likes this.
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •I'm not proud of this layout, but it's just the mockup, I'll do better with the real fabic (where the pieces will probably be shorter, so I would have had to change the layout anyway)
#sewing
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Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •Avviso contenuto: eye contact, sewing
And something tells me that I've attached the sleeve to the wrong side on the mock up :(
it's just basted, but still.
at least I hope that it's attached to the wrong side, because otherwise it's significantly wrong.
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rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Avviso contenuto: eye contact, sewing
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua • •Any fitting done on the real fabric will happen with the seams allowances towards the inside, of course.
#sewing
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rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla'' likes this.
Shield Maiden
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Avviso contenuto: eye contact, sewing
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Shield Maiden • •I'm taking inspiration from various fashion plates and existing garments, but not from a specific one (and the sources vary a bit in the dates, between the second half of the #1880s and the first half of the #1890s).
And I already know that the straight 1880s sleeve from that jacket block works, so I may be tempted to just go with it.
#sewing #HistoricalSewing
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Shield Maiden
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla'' likes this.
Shield Maiden
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla'' likes this.
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Shield Maiden • •the sleeves from the cutters’ practical guide are also a bit curved: they aren't on the true bias, but not on the straight grain either (and I can confirm from my other jacket that they really follow nicely the line of the arm)
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gailsedotes
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •oh, the joys of #HistoricalSewing and of not adding alignment notches to the patterns you've drafted :D
#sewing #patternDrafting
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Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •Avviso contenuto: eye contact, sewing
*surprisingly* sewing the sleeve to the right side has made it fit :D
I will have to add some structure to the top of the sleeve to prevent it from deflating as it is doing in the mock-up, but I think I can say it fits and proceed with cutting the real fabric.
Which I got for cheap as a bolt end, but was still expensive fabric, so I'm absolutely not trying to postpone the moment, why do you ask? :D (it's going to be made in dark grey — I think it's called — tropical wool, lined in gray silk, and the center will have the option to be filled by at least two different plastrons)
#sewing #HistoricalSewing
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Giselle
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Avviso contenuto: eye contact, sewing
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Giselle • •sewing group reshared this.
Giselle
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Will make sure to keep my eyes open if I come across any info like that. Interesting that shoulder rolls are tailoring, I didn't know that. But then I'm a total amateur.
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Giselle • •https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/82081
https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O224503/sleeve-puff-unknown/
and I know that there are some similar ones (as well as ones with the wire visible) from the 1890s, but I can only find pinterest links for most of them, except for
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/83088
#HistoricalSewing
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Elena ``of Valhalla''
Unknown parent • •sewing group reshared this.
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •Have I ever mentioned how much I love *having marked* the seamlines on fabric with tailor's tacks?
and how much I hate actually doing it? :D
it took me the whole day to lay the pattern on the fabric and start doing that little bit, thanks to interruptions and procrastionation.
(also, apparently I got the problematic update on my #pinephone that broke taking pictures :D )
#sewing #HistoricalSewing
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Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •ok, apparently the accepted way to get a pattern to be transferred on fabric with tailor's tacks is to remain in the same room with the fabric and actually do it, with no interruptions. who could have thought!
(yes, the green tint on the photo still comes from the #pinephone and its updated software)
now it's tea time, and then maybe before this evening I'll cut everything out and move on to cutting the lining. if I don't have to do other things (such as maybe look at what happened to the pinephone camera software? maybe).
#sewing #HistoricalSewing
Foto della bacheca
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Ailbhe
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Sounds incredibly unfair, definitely write to the management
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:gnu: bonifartius 𒂼𒄄
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla'' likes this.
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to :gnu: bonifartius 𒂼𒄄 • •¹ I've been *very* slow in removing that core.
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:gnu: bonifartius 𒂼𒄄
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla'' likes this.
soil gremlin
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla'' likes this.
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to soil gremlin • •Cutting for simpler things, where one can just cut without marking the seam lines isn't that bad, but any time one is doing something a bit more structured, yeah.
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Giselle
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Giselle • •I also took pictures with the real camera, but those require downloading from the card and editing and… :D
Now that you mention it, they do look otherworldly, I like it!
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Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •sewing group reshared this.
MagdoLena9
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to MagdoLena9 • •I'm drafting them from period instructions, or rather I drafted them from period instructions in summer 2021, made one mockup and then put them on hold because I wasn't sure about the fabric to use and I had more urgent projects.
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MagdoLena9
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to MagdoLena9 • •but one day a pair of cycling knickers will happen, and I will post about it :)
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Rivikah
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Rivikah • •For the second attempt I enlarged them (and then I didn't do the second mockup).
Now, they are below-the-knee length, so each leg is just above 80 cm long and it would probably fit on the fabric (there is some leeway because it's the leftovers from the jacket, it's not a straight cut).
The two leg sides for the wider version are not going to fit on the fabric side by side, but the original one may, maybe, possibly with a tiny bit of piecing, or by using the wiggle room.
I would have to be creative with the waistband, but I think I can get the various facings etc. from the jacket scraps, probably, maybe.
First I'll finish the jacket, so if disasters happen I have a safety net to recut pieces, and if I find I need something more for the accessories I can get it.
But afterwards, if I still have this much fabric, I can probably try it.
Unless I get other ideas.
#sewing #HistoricalSewing
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Giselle
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla'' likes this.
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • •Now I should be basting all pieces together with their interfacing and linings, but that requires being at the table, and this evening I'm attending https://fossandcrafts.org/hack-and-craft/ and need something to do in front of the computer, so I've started working on one of the plastrons, the one with soutache decorations.
And now I'm asking myself: why can't I accept a soutache decoration where the braid is placed on top of previous parts of the braid? why do I have to insist on it being a proper knot? :D
(there are pictures in the good camera. one day they will be copied to the computer and posted in this thread. this is not that day :) )
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