working on my #18thcentury stays today. These are accurate to the mid 18th century; the outfit I’m building is c. 1760. I’m using Simplicity 8162, developed by American Duchess. Since this is my first set of stays, I opted for a pattern that’s beginner friendly, and I’m using my sewing machine rather than period accurate hand sewing. At this point I have the fashion fabric and coutil interlining cut and basted together; next step is to sew the boning channels & insert boning (heh).
Boning channels stitched in a lot faster than I expected! Now I have to figure out my next steps because I’m doing things differently from the pattern, as usual. Instead of sewing the lining in one with the interlining and fashion fabric, I’m lining at the end (which is also American Duchess’s method); I have to decide when I’m going to add the eyelets, since I want to try it on for sizing before I line and bind. I’m really happy with how the red thread looks!
the instructions on this pattern are a little weird to me because I’ve watched a bunch of construction videos and I don’t think ANY of them follow the stated technique. Guess that’s to be expected from a big 4 pattern.
Basic construction is done! I did a fit check by pinning the back and holding it together; honestly it’s still borderline bigger than I was hoping for (this is after sizing down!) but I think finishing the edges will shave an inch or so off anyway. The pattern has a reputation for being short wasted, but I too am short waisted, so we’re a good match.
The pattern says to first add straps, then bind the bottom edge, insert boning, bind the top edge, and add eyelets, because they sew the lining in with the other layers. As I’m sewing the lining separately, I want to sew it before binding the bottom edge, so I can bind the lining too. And I want to add the bones before I line it. Hmph.
I *almost* made my first set of stays entirely hand sewn using the Scroop Augusta pattern… decided to do this one first but I do have a knack for finding the difficult ways to do things
uh! I also have the Augusta stays, I've cut the paper pattern in what seems to be my size and now it's there, on the pile of WIP, until I decide whether I want to sew them by hand or by machine using the theatrical instructions.
Or rather, one day I want to sew one by hand in vintage linen. but first I want to try them for fit in cotton, and I'm not sure if I also want to practice the technique, or if I want to see results sooner :D
I hate it when that happens. Sometimes it's not even the threading of the machine but a needle that's no longer longer up to scratch. You're doing a fab job with these stays.
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soil gremlin
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in reply to soil gremlin • • •#sewing #historicalsewing
Elena ``of Valhalla'' likes this.
soil gremlin
in reply to soil gremlin • • •soil gremlin
in reply to soil gremlin • • •Steps left:
1. insert boning
2. add straps
3. lining
4. binding edges
5. lacing eyelets
The pattern says to first add straps, then bind the bottom edge, insert boning, bind the top edge, and add eyelets, because they sew the lining in with the other layers. As I’m sewing the lining separately, I want to sew it before binding the bottom edge, so I can bind the lining too. And I want to add the bones before I line it. Hmph.
soil gremlin
in reply to soil gremlin • • •Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to soil gremlin • •it just *happens*, right? :D
first it's just a lining, and after a while you find yourself sewing a full garment by hand :D
soil gremlin likes this.
soil gremlin
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla'' likes this.
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to soil gremlin • •uh! I also have the Augusta stays, I've cut the paper pattern in what seems to be my size and now it's there, on the pile of WIP, until I decide whether I want to sew them by hand or by machine using the theatrical instructions.
Or rather, one day I want to sew one by hand in vintage linen. but first I want to try them for fit in cotton, and I'm not sure if I also want to practice the technique, or if I want to see results sooner :D
soil gremlin likes this.
soil gremlin
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to soil gremlin • •it will probably have to wait a few months while I finish sewing a few 1800 things.
But I've made a few modern patterns from Scroop Patterns and they are always so well made!
murz
in reply to soil gremlin • • •Giselle's very old account
in reply to soil gremlin • • •You're doing a fab job with these stays.
ikkleboo
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