I've just watched Bernadette Banners' video “How to Identify Quality in Clothing (A Rant)” and I'm a bit surprised by the way serging is basically condemned as evil.
I do hate the serger (and the serger hates me), so on the clothing I make I tend to use french seams, bound edges and all those finishes, but other than the odd flat felled seam on sportswear I don't think I've ever seen a professionally made garment where the raw edges weren't finished with serging, even when it was an actual seamstress doing custom work.
Of course there is serging and serging, and the video does mention what to look for for better (or less worse, as they framed it) serging, but I just don't understand how one is supposed to find garments that aren't serged at all for sale.
Apiary
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla'' likes this.
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Apiary • •Sensible Crone
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Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Sensible Crone • •@Sensible Crone indeed, I think that's the first time I have to complain about something seen in a video by Bernadette Banners, which somehow makes it worse? :D
(I mean, other than the fact that I now have a witch hat and handsew at least part of my shirts, and it's partially her fault :D )
Marta 🌿🍃
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla'' likes this.
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Marta 🌿🍃 • •@Marta 🌿🍃 nope, serging as the only construction seam was mentioned as an even worse case (and shown on a few ready made garments, but the video was against serging in general.
as for my mutually hated serger: I've been told that the serger I had (and has since been given to a sewing machine shop for a discount on another machine) was a bad model that just didn't work correctly; now I have access to a new one, but I've basically never used it because I've started to use more and more 1800s techniques, so I can't say whether I could have a better experience with it.
I do plan to try it again. one day. maybe. it's just not a priority :D
Marta 🌿🍃
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Good luck with your serger when you get to it! Manuals are usually thorough, but if it's by any chance Jusi 654de, I have a comprehensive threading video for it :)
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Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Marta 🌿🍃 • •@Marta 🌿🍃 yeah, in her videos she's only using a straight stitch vintage machine, so that's basically almost the opposite extreme from a serger :D
the thing is, from what I've seen, even people who sew historical garments for customers do use a serger for seam finishes, unless the customer is willing to pay basically museum-grade prices or something.
it's just people who sew for themselves (or for youtube videos, I guess :) ) who can afford to consistently avoid them.
Marta 🌿🍃
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •I still finish the edges that will be covered often enough, just because it keeps me from going batty from all the fraying while I'm handling the fabric for hemming and such.
{and then once it serged, I often only roll it once, because that's enough; either that, or I'll sew binding by hand, it depends}
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Asta
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •When I worked at a clothing store, about 12 years ago, I was shocked to find the hems of some trousers to have been turned just once and then sewn down with the serged seam visible. Because that's just not how you make a neat finish, and I had studied to be a dressmaker.
But outside of that I've never thought that having serged seams would be bad, I love (and hate) my serger myself. 😄 Actually I find serged seams to be better than a french seam, cause the former is a lot easier to adjust for fit! (Which is not a thing in today's fast fashion with the nonexistent seam allowances, but at least you can take things in...)
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Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Asta • •@Asta I think I've seen the whole “serged edge turned just once as a hem” in a context where it wasn't due to extreme cost saving (it was then stitched down by hand), but it was for very lightweight fabric, not something I'd expect in trousers.
And yeah, I tend to use french seams on pretty unfitted things, so they aren't a big problem, but they make alterations pretty much impossible.
Lauma Pret 🕸️
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Lauma Pret 🕸️
in reply to Lauma Pret 🕸️ • • •What really stung me was the reminder about seam-allowance size and ease of modifying seams. Do I think she was right in that department? YES! How often I've seen of-the-rack pants with easily modifyable mid-back seam? Once in several years!! (I look always, because most pants don't fit my curvy figure) ...
I'm just generally very sad how shit most of contemporary clothing has become, and I wanted to complain a bit more about it. 😅
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