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Hm. I think I need a turn of the 20th century wrapper/tea gown/house dress type garment.

My fabric is a cozy navy wool, so I'll want to avoid some of the more fantastical ruffled confections

Here's some pictures from the 1897 and 1898 Sears catalogues and the 1899 Eaton's catalogue.

For planning purposes.

#sewing #historybounding

This is a pretty simple shape, but that one sided ruffle is very odd.
I really like this lapel style front, but maybe I'll save it for a coat.
The previous year has more outrageous sleeves, and I'm tempted to try those watteau pleats that seem to be everywhere.
Here's a simple yoked design that looks nice less bulky to my eye.
#sewing #historyBounding
in reply to Rivikah

Caiotekit Creations
Caiotekit Creations
• •
I like the lower right one..I like simpler things.
in reply to Caiotekit Creations

Rivikah
Rivikah
• •

@Caiotekit Yeah, It looks great.

I have a little bit of trouble telling how much of the appeal is the less unnerving art style though.

I think I'm leaning towards something like the upper left (minus that wacky arm ruffle) mostly for ease of construction reasons

@Caiotekit Creations
in reply to Rivikah

Caiotekit Creations
Caiotekit Creations
• •
Yeah, without the ruffle. Don't forget the teeny tiny waist to balance it all out.😄
in reply to Caiotekit Creations

Rivikah
Rivikah
• •
@Caiotekit you get the teeny tiny waist by adding more shoulder and chest ruffles for contrast...
@Caiotekit Creations
in reply to Caiotekit Creations

Rivikah
Rivikah
• •
oh absolutely. Turn of the century fashion is all about getting proper proportions through adding padding and ruffles.
Questa voce è stata modificata (1 anno fa)
in reply to Rivikah

Rivikah
Rivikah
• •

My evening's internet browsing tells me these usually opened down the front and were mostly constructed over a vest-like inner bodice liner that fastened separately. I'm currently debating whether or not I want to go to all that trouble.

Most of these it would not be at all difficult to just make them pull on over the head and then belt at the waist.

Questa voce è stata modificata (1 anno fa)
in reply to Rivikah

Rivikah
Rivikah
• •

Working on my sleeve draft.

#sewing #drafting #historybounding

A large piece of paper with a sewing pattern sketched in it.
#sewing #historyBounding #drafting
in reply to Rivikah

Rivikah
Rivikah
• •

Ok. Point of no return...Drapey bits in the back, or no...Hmm...

#sewing #decisions

An old catalogue image of a woman with a drapey wateau pleat down the back of her dress
#sewing #decisions
in reply to Rivikah

clew
clew
• •

Lovely, but if one is so sublunary as to sit down, do they get all weird creases?

@Rivikah

@Rivikah
in reply to clew

Rivikah
Rivikah
• •
@clew that is a possible concern. As is just.... it's more fabric to get tangled in.
@clew
in reply to Rivikah

clew
clew
• •
Lovely when leaning sideways on a chaise, piano, broken classical pillar — and yet. @Rivikah
@Rivikah
in reply to clew

Rivikah
Rivikah
• •
@clew I think I'm leaving it out partially because I'm hoping this will help as a mockup for an actual going outside coat. And I don't want an extra pleat for that.
@clew
in reply to Rivikah

Rivikah
Rivikah
• •
And now I consider adjusting my pattern for more efficient fabric layout.
The pattern pieces on fabric. They hang off the edge.
in reply to Rivikah

Rivikah
Rivikah
• •

And now we have a layout. Time for cutting! (The scary part)

#sewing

#sewing
in reply to Rivikah

Rivikah
Rivikah
• •

All cut.

OK, I still need to make a plan about a collar and some facings. But all the big bits are done.

Here are four piles:
Two continuous meters of left over fabric that I might get a very practical pair of trousers from if I'm careful. (Only 3 meters used for this garment if anyone's keeping score.)
A pile of small probably useless scraps.
A pile of larger pieces that I will cut the aforementioned collar and facings from.
My cut out pieces.

#sewing #historybounding

Four piles of fabric on a counter top as described.
#sewing #historyBounding
Questa voce è stata modificata (1 anno fa)
in reply to Rivikah

Rivikah
Rivikah
• •

I've started to put the first seams in place and now reach an all important question: Pockets?

I don't really want to have to fiddle with pockets. But will I regret it?

in reply to Rivikah

Rivikah
Rivikah
• •

My quest to be cozy requires that I hang out in my cold basement because it's stitching time!

#sewing #treadle

A treadle sewing machine with navy fabric under the foot.
#sewing #treadle
in reply to Rivikah

Rivikah
Rivikah
• •

The weekend's progress. This still needs collar and neck facings, belt, hemming and wrist finishing, buttons and button holes.

I was planning a little standing collar to really lean in to the spinster aunt vibe, but now that I'm here.... maybe more floof? Probably not though. Little standing collars are versatile in a way big floofy ones aren't. Maybe some decorative braid though.

#sewing #historybounding #1898

A woman standing awkwardly wearing a navy robe with poofy shoulders.
#sewing #historyBounding
in reply to Rivikah

Rivikah
Rivikah
• •
My garment has faded into the blackness and I forgot to crop out the laundry. It's 9 pm on a Sunday and the bedtime routine commences. You get what you get.
in reply to Rivikah

Rivikah
Rivikah
• •

More progress! All that's left is hemming and fasteners.

And maybe fussing around with a couple of little details. (Sleeve pleats are asymmetrical collar comes too much around the front)

This is already amazing and getting tons of wear even unfinished

#sewing #historybounding

A woman wearing a navy blue dressing gown in the style of 1898.
#sewing #historyBounding
in reply to Rivikah

Rivikah
Rivikah
• •
I didn't put side steam pockets in this because I want to sometimes wear it open and didn't want to line it, but I hid a little pocket inside the belt.
#sewing #pockets
A close up of the torso with a phone sticking out of the top of the belt. The belt itself is shaped so it's wider and pointed at the front.
#sewing #pockets
in reply to Rivikah

Rivikah
Rivikah
• •

Some commentary here: Those sleeves look super impressive, right?

But I'm pretty sure I understand why this was the style right when Ready To Wear clothing was really becoming a big force.

Those sleeves are super easy to set. Way easier than most of my modern carefully written patterns. They're even easier to fit. Like...No fitting, just poof.

#sewing #historybounding #history #clothing

#sewing #clothing #history #historyBounding
in reply to Rivikah

Scurra
Scurra
• •
Wow, that's gorgeous. And yeah, even I can see that the sleeves are neat!
in reply to Scurra

Rivikah
Rivikah
• •
@Scurra The sleeves are /magical/. Like...you'd expect there to be some fancy tailoring in there. Maybe a lining supporting all that poof. Or at least some careful drafting. But no. It's just "Make the sleeve head as big as you like and pleat it down to size"
@Scurra
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Rivikah
Rivikah
• •
@valhalla @Scurra no lining, no interfacing, nothing. In a different fabric they might drape softly rather than poof, but that would also look great. I think.
@Elena ``of Valhalla'' @Scurra
in reply to Rivikah

arielbnz
arielbnz
• •
with all the respect, looks amazing. And that color suits you great!
in reply to Rivikah

Sarah E Bourne
Sarah E Bourne
• •
I suspect that style was just to flash your wealth - all that extra fabric for no practical reason.
in reply to Sarah E Bourne

Rivikah
Rivikah
• •
@sbourne Fashion is usually just for looking nice. People like to look nice, that's fine. I also don't think that pleat is really much more of a fabric hog than the fitted waist versions. Yes, there's more fabric actually in the actual garment, but the cutting layout will mean most of that would probably have been waste...Repurposed for smaller bits maybe, but not making the dress much cheaper.
@Sarah E Bourne
in reply to Rivikah

Rivikah
Rivikah
• •

@sbourne I mean...This is the Sears catalogue, not the House of Worth. In 1897, six out of the seven wrappers in the Sears catalogue had that extra back pleat. Including the least expensive one.

I'm actually guessing they were on their way out of style, because they're almost all gone by 1898.

@Sarah E Bourne
in reply to Rivikah

clew
clew
• •
In my imagination the vest substructure keeps the big heavy drapy stuff evenly balanced without a waist belt @Rivikah
@Rivikah
in reply to clew

Rivikah
Rivikah
• •
@clew oh they all have a waist belt too. It does keep the some of the pleats in place maybe.
@clew
in reply to Rivikah

Elena ``of Valhalla''
Elena ``of Valhalla''
•

@Rivikah yes! everybody¹ needs a comfy but elegant house dress such as these!

Says the one who has been thinking of one for years, and still only has vague plans :D

¹ FSVO everybody

@Rivikah

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