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The thing about petticoats is that you can easily wear one for ten years and it's nice, and another ten if you don't care about it being a bit banged up, and it's underwear so you don't... But heck does it take bloody forever to make a cute one!
Here pictured: Me thinking I did this to myself.

#Sewing #HistoryBounding

A photo of Sini sitting down at her desk, behind a Husqvarna sewing machine, an ocean of white ruffle and lace filling up the entire foreground of the photo. Some twelve metres of it, to be exact. Her eyes are cast down, onto the bit being sewn, both hands on the sewing plate delicately guiding the strips of fabric together. Pretty sunlight streams in from a window on the right, and also behind her. She's wearing a fancy but cosy white linen shirt with lace details and big puffed sleeves narrowing down onto a simple cuff, round eyeglasses, small tiger's eye pendant earrings and a black, gray and tan headscarf with botanical print, in a sort of working class woman at home can't be bothered to do her hair style. Her expression is of smooth contained exasperation. A vase with artificial flowers and ginkgo leaf branches in the background.
#sewing #historyBounding
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
• •
That's also the shirt I made whenever I did, previous to this. It fits, I like the new sleeve pattern I drafted!
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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Looking at these old ads for petticoats to maintain my motivation to do more petticoating.

#HistoricalFashion #Ephemera

A full page ad from the Edwardian era, where a number of white petticoats are displayed as illustrations. Three women with very large hair are modelling some, and there's six more just draped artistically on a background. These are all ready made, according to set designs, which the ad tells you, as well as that postage and expressage are both paid by the company. All of them are of a length of 38 to 44 inches, and going from 49 cents to 3.98 dollars. They are all constructed and decorated with bonkers amounts of fine tucks, wide tucks, lace insertion and ruffles, and are incredibly full at the hem. The hours to make just one must have been many.
Second page of the same ad, these are all petticoats in black only. They go from 79 cents to 8 dollars, way more pricey! The three women displaying them have haughty, sassy or challenging, flirty expressions. These are the rich bitch petticoats, the daring ones. They are, if possible, even more elaborate, and definitely more full. There's also shirring, pleats, more lace, fancier fabrics... The ad also says that you save money by buying from them, which is certainly a claim. I cannot overstate how these have taken possibly even more time from some poor factory girl to make. Absolutely ridiculously elaborate, and of course quite beautiful.
#HistoricalFashion #ephemera
Questa voce è stata modificata (3 settimane fa)
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
• •
The lower-most ruffle on the black petticoats? Ridiculous amounts of narrow fabric strip to hem! And I think I want to put something like that on mine!
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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Today in petticoat sewing: Second ruffle finished and attached, petticoat impossible to photograph flat! It's really springy because of all the tucks and will relax a bit with use and gravity... But here we are. If I was making a sensible, practical petticoat this would be the length, but now I have to make and attach the last hem ruffle. 😆
A photo of Sini standing and holding a white petticoat which is still being made against her waist, allowing it to drape over her floor length skirt, which is obscured by the petticoat. It is a very voluminous shape of a solid skirt base in a sort of A line, and roughly to her knee, and then juts out in a wide tall ruffle with two strips of insertion lace and six rows of narrow horizontal tucks. From this springs out the lower ruffle, which has one row of narrower insertion lace, and two rows of slightly wider tucks. It looks like a petticoat, and pretty hardcore! The hem as it is is ankle length, and a tiny ruffle could be added to make it sweep or round length. She is also wearing a white linen blouse and a black vest, a simple head scarf because it's cold, and round glasses. In the background a computer desk, shelves, camera tripod.
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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This voile has so much structure for being so sheer, I honestly could have gone with x1.5 and not x2 for the ruffle tiers... And just so I can save thread and fabric I think I'm just gonna calculate 1.5 times the fabric strip of the previous layer, and call it good. It won't flare out exactly like the two layers before, but it never will since it's not getting the tucks onto it either!
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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The thing about a very narrow hem ruffle though. Is that while it's a very minimal amount of fabric that you can then conveniently take off if it starts looking horrible, wears or tears - only 36cm x 130cm for this petticoat so not a lot of fabric at all! - it's also just utterly tedious to make, hem and attach. :blob_melt_sob: So tedious!

I'm just gonna start drafting the pattern for a hat, for morale reasons, now.

in reply to Sini Tuulia

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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It took so so very long, and with multiple breaks I did not want to take to Maintain The Body, but the hem ruffle is on there now, and all that's missing is me ironing it and finishing all the seams on the inside, then topstitching them down. 😶

#Sewing

A top down photo of an amorphous mass of white fabric and lace and ruffles on a desk. There is a short ruffle being attached to the petticoat body, a ruffle onto a ruffle, and there are dozens of equidistant sewing pins holding it in place, awaiting sewing on. Sini's pale hand is holding some of it. The top of head of a ginger tabby cat is poking into the lower frame.
The assembled petticoat draped on a convenient surface, its multiple tiers of ruffle and insertion lace flaring out like some sort of ephemeral sea creature. The very edge of it has a narrow, perhaps 5cm hem, that is currently not yet ironed to make it settle. It looks pretty cute nonetheless. Sini's pale hand is holding onto it, to show off the hem, a white linen shirt sleeve cuff just in frame. Some quilted bed covers in the background, a parquet floor below.
#sewing
in reply to Sini Tuulia

UnformedWorlds
UnformedWorlds
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How striking! That is a gorgeous piece of frilly foamy ruff. Delightful!
in reply to UnformedWorlds

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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@UnformedWorlds Thank you! It'll settle a bit after ironing and then wearing, but it is quite spirited right now! 😄
@UnformedWorlds
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Debbie
Debbie
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wow that is looking amazing. Love how all the lace incorporated.
in reply to Debbie

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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@debbie Thank you! Ideally I'd have done two rows of the narrower lace, for symmetry, but absolutely could not be bothered. 😆 It would have been a full another day of work and I figured three rows of lace was quite enough!
@Debbie
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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Overlocking done. Considering how fast it is, that was rather a while for just the raw seams, even with so many of them already finished! Now, to topstitch the seams down... But why do that? Well, if you have cats and wash the petticoat for even a couple of years, the pockets formed by the seam allowances will gather just so much cat lint, and show through to the right side, and it's impossible to get it out afterwards... So, eliminate the pocket as much as possible!
A close up photo to illustrate the pocket made by the seam allowance. Away from the actual seam line, on the wrong side, there will always be some seam allowance unless it's been felled. Here in the photo Sini has turned back the raw seam allowance, showing the space within which all the lint will want to live if allowed to. With there being 1cm seam allowances, and thus three layers of fabric on any given bit of the metres and metres of ruffle... There is just an incredible amount of real estate for fabric and animal fibres to get stuck inside. And gravel. And pine needles. Anything, really, everything that you put into a washing machine with the garment, it will attempt to live in the space between the seam allowance and the actual garment body!
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
• •
Most of my older petticoats have just so much cat lint inside the seams, washed dozens of times, so much that it's as clean as anything can be probably, but they're also not white and sheer and thus not visible through the fabric!
in reply to Asta

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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@asta Tack tack! Vähän on työläs ja ihan ei oo käytännöllinen, mutta joskus sitä vaan haluaa tehdä valkosen liian monimutkasen alushameen... 😂
@Asta
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Asta
Asta
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Minkäs teet 😂 Mä tykkään tollasista kokopitkistä helmoista, mut ovat kyl hirveen epäkäytännöllisiä!
in reply to Asta

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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@asta Se on vähän sellasta että sulla on jo kotona viikon tai pari pidetty hame jonka sitten viet reissulle ulos... Ja jos sataa tai on paljon lunta, parempi olla vähän lyhyempi helma ku lattiaa koskeva ja/tai sitten kengät joissa on kunnolla korkoa... Ja silti sitten kun tuut kotiin, vaihdat kotihameeseen joka ei laahaa ulkopaskaa pitkin lattioita, ja ulkohame saa odotella henkarilla kunnes on taas asiaa ulos!

Joskus joku mietti että miks Viktorian ajalla naiset (ja miehet) vaihto vaatteita koko ajan, mutta jos et pese niitä joka vaihdon välissä niin ihan järkihommaa. 😆

@Asta
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Asta
Asta
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Paljon fiksumpaa kyl! Autoin kerran töissä romaninaista korjaamaan hameensa helmaa kun se oli vielä hänen päällään ja silloin vasta tajusin miten epäkäytännöllistä oikeesti on, että helmat on pitkät, kun se oli ihan märkä! Kiva varmaan kurakeleillä. 🫣
in reply to Asta

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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@asta Joo, se on kyllä kun ne perinnekoltut on niin älyttömän kalliita että ei varmaan joka naisella oo varaa pitää varalla kolmea eri pituutta joka kelille, ja varmaan on tarkat säännöt siitä paljonko kangasta ja kuinka pitkä on helma jne. 🤔 Ja sitten jos helma on märkä, se on raskaampi ja laahaa enemmän ja kastuu lisää samalla kun painaa paljon...

Historiallisessa muodissa nopeesti selviää että miks joku asia on niinku on. Säärystimet, varsinkin villaiset ja nahkaa? Mukavasti estävät märän hameen helman läpsymistä sääriä vasten, eikä lumi sula sisään kenkiin kun on joku este siinä hameen ja nyörityksen välissä!

@Asta
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Wonderdog
Wonderdog
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on petticoat 1409 "Dwarf tucks" - I hadn't heard them described that way - they looked like released tucks to me and I thought ooooh I must remember those! Also on 1408, that row of vertical tucks/pleats (I forget which it was now, oooh look, a shiny) is also fabulous.
in reply to Wonderdog

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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@caity The nomenclature changes even decade by decade, a lot of the time the magazines will have to explain the new name for the thing that was done before but a long time ago. 😄

"Accordion plaited flounce" is what it's calling the vertical pleating, and I know they had these big scary pleating machines that are still in use, to this day you can send your silk or anything to get pressed and steamed into pleats! You can also then never ever wash them, if it's a natural fibre. 😆

@Wonderdog
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Astrid
Astrid
• •
narrow waists galore!
in reply to Astrid

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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@astridpoot Fashion illustrations are never to human proportions these days, and certainly weren't then! If the waists look drastic, check out the size of those feet, smaller than their hands. 😆
@Astrid
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Astrid
Astrid
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i always wonder about the artists making these drawings; what went on in their head? how did they (themselves) look? is this their dreambody?
in reply to Astrid

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
• •

@astridpoot Why do people draw in the anime/manga style, or superhero comic style? Culture, convention, fashion, personal taste... We went from fashion illustrations and painted ads to photos at some point in the 1940s probably, but it used to just be what you did.

I know these are absolutely copied off the style and vibe of the art of Charles Dana Gibson, though, because his stuff was massively popular at the time!

@Astrid
in reply to Ciara

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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@CiaraNi This artists was not super extra faithful to basic human anatomy! Look at the feet! 😆
@Ciara
in reply to Sini Tuulia

JWcph, Radicalized By Decency
JWcph, Radicalized By Decency
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@CiaraNi Rob Liefeld...? 😂
@Ciara
in reply to JWcph, Radicalized By Decency

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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@jwcph Rob and old fashion illustrators, that handshake meme and they're both shaking on: "There will be absolutely no feet and by god if there are, they're going to be the tiniest and dinkiest most anatomically incorrect ones possible!"
@JWcph, Radicalized By Decency
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Ciara
Ciara
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Unnatural expectations for women's bodies, including specific parts of them: never surprising, always infuriating!
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Elena ``of Valhalla''
Elena ``of Valhalla''
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@Sini Tuulia but a petticoat with many ruffles is sooooo nice, it's worth the effort!
@Sini Tuulia

Mx Verda reshared this.

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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@valhalla They are so nice! Though I am slightly dreading the once-yearly ironing of any specific petticoat, but especially this one. 😆
@Elena ``of Valhalla''

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