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Continuing the pattern drafting for what may become the #CinnamonLinenJacket - I realised I didn't actually need the darts in the front and side pattern piece. I recalled seeing a drafting diagram for a short bolero type jacket at some point with NO body seams at all, and I don't want to go that far... But it did exist! Look at it!

#Sewing #PatternDrafting #HistoryBounding

A drafting diagram for a jacket, on a scan of a yellowed old drafting manual. It's all just one piece. On the left side is the centre back line, in the middle is the arm's eye, flanked by the two sides of shoulder, and on the right the centre front with an immense collar lapel jutting out of it. The bottom edge is scalloped in an intriguing fashion. All the darts and seams have been subsumed into the one bodice piece and it looks both absolutely bonkers and like it makes perfect sense.
#sewing #historyBounding #patternDrafting #cinnamonlinenjacket
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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Meanwhile, it's actually taking a bit longer than expected not because of the strange shapes, but because I'm trying to figure out the collar and lapels, and fitting over a blouse with very large sleeves. I want to wear the large sleeves under the jacket, so this is very good, but it does change the shape of the arm's eye a lot!
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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Oh, and. I'm very familiar with drafting patterns and fitting for a shape that very very closely follows the body. There's quite a bit of staring thoughtfully involved when the damn thing is meant to hang open in the front, and on top of blousy full shirts and such, too. Persuading it to lie flat in one spot and gracefully aloft in another is certainly something. For now I'm attempting to fit the arm's eyes and upper back so nicely that everything else sort of falls in place.
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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in reply to Sini Tuulia

your auntifa liza 🇵🇷 🦛 🦦
your auntifa liza 🇵🇷 🦛 🦦
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1. you look so much like on of my cousins on my mom’s side it’s not even funny.

2. is the orange tie for a petticoat?

3. am loving the skirt. is it a linen broadcloth?

4. your button game is impecable.

5. i see what you mean about the back. my fitting problems are always the boob area. how to you feel about cutting princess seams instead of darts? i reckoned recently the manufactured shirts i feel comfortable in are all princess seam cuts.

in reply to your auntifa liza 🇵🇷 🦛 🦦

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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@blogdiva I'm told I also look like my grandmother. 😄
The orange tie is indeed for the petticoat, it's not the correct shape at all for the blouse and jacket but I'm only fitting the top so I don't feel like changing!
The skirt/petticoat is made from a fairly old duvet cover of unknown providence, it's an extremely high quality, dense and heavy cotton, I wouldn't even know what to call it. The whole thing is just pleated onto waistbands. It makes a very good house skirt.

And thank you! I've made a billion of these linen shirts or blouses this year, and trying different things. 😄
The back is princess seams, and the only vertical seams there are. I think the shape of the side back is slightly off, and the upper back a bit too long, but I'm willing to mess with it until it's right. 🤔 The fabric is also a flimsy old bedsheet!

@your auntifa liza 🇵🇷 🦛 🦦
in reply to Sini Tuulia

your auntifa liza 🇵🇷 🦛 🦦
your auntifa liza 🇵🇷 🦛 🦦
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i have about 4 duvets am turning into jumpsuits and skirts. am getting myself organized to literally start new year’s day. most old sheets and duvets are either all cotton or a mix with linen or rayon but in +200 GSM, making them 2-3 times the weight of broadcloth and the perfect fabrics for old school designs. so much of today’s fabrics have so much plastic/polyester in them, they just don’t cut nor drape the same.
in reply to your auntifa liza 🇵🇷 🦛 🦦

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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@blogdiva The new beddings of today are not as good as the vintage ones, either! I've lately either been buying cotton batiste (which is always flimsy and sheer and breaks apart fairly easily) or pure linen, linen is just so nice! Costs a lot more, especially when certified organic and/or Okö-Tex, but worth it. A lot of the time other fabrics are just disappointing 😐
@your auntifa liza 🇵🇷 🦛 🦦
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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@blogdiva I like making 18th century petticoats out of old sheets and such because there's pretty much nothing wasted... But also when they start to go, I can use them to make mock-ups for other sewing!
@your auntifa liza 🇵🇷 🦛 🦦
in reply to Sini Tuulia

your auntifa liza 🇵🇷 🦛 🦦
your auntifa liza 🇵🇷 🦛 🦦
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it’s scary how much polyester is being passed as cotton. there’s zero regulation enforcement here in the USA, so manufacturers can claim oopsies when selling you synth shite.
in reply to your auntifa liza 🇵🇷 🦛 🦦

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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@blogdiva It's easy to get sold polyester as cotton here too, when online shopping! If it's not certified anything, it can be pretty much anything from anywhere, so I just save myself time and filter out anything and everything without certifications. And if they're not divulging the country of origin, either? There's a good chance it will anger my sensible nose and lungs when I work on it, too! Regulation is very good actually, I wish there was more of it in the textile industry in general. Nobody knows where anything comes from, or how it got made. Garbage!
@your auntifa liza 🇵🇷 🦛 🦦
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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Sensitive content

Questa voce è stata modificata (3 mesi fa)
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Lauma Pret 🕸️
Lauma Pret 🕸️
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Do you have appropriate dressform or you somehow magicaly fix the darts on yourself?
in reply to Lauma Pret 🕸️

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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@laumapret Oh it's pretty much impossible to find a dressform that is actually your shape unless you get one of those ones that are made with a 3D model of yourself. 😄 I used to have a basic one, but none of my jackets ever fit it because my torso is *so small* but it was useful for hanging and hemming skirts.

I'm pretty flexible and can use my left hand for precision work also, so I just fit on myself. If it requires enough contortion to disturb the shape, it's a lot of eyeballing, taking it off, pinning and trying it on again!

@Lauma Pret 🕸️
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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@laumapret (You can also make them yourself, but it's a horrible hassle and not as good to use if you'd like to pin into it, and sourcing and affixing the stand is also complicated at home.)
@Lauma Pret 🕸️
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Elena ``of Valhalla''
Elena ``of Valhalla''
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@Sini Tuulia @Lauma Pret 🕸️ (I've seen a tutorial on making one yourself¹ with insulation foam that can be pinned into, but my first attempt to make a mannequin of my foot² didn't work that well, I need to try other foams.)

(and of course, I haven't tackled the stand issues yet)

¹ for values of yourself that definitely require another person to wrap you in plaster bandages
² mostly as a small scale test, but it can be useful while making socks and slippers

@Sini Tuulia @Lauma Pret 🕸️
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Lauma Pret 🕸️
Lauma Pret 🕸️
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And mine is so curvy and booby that nothing makes sense. Thus I'm already for a long while procastinating to do any fitted top body sewing. But I will eventually need overcome that fear, because... what else is there.
in reply to Lauma Pret 🕸️

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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@laumapret I trust you've already watched The Closet Historian, Bianca, doing all kinds of pattern drafting things! She's very blessed in the bust region and did have a video at one point about large bust modifications, though she often mentions some small things just as she's doing whatever.

There's often something in Victorian cutting & drafting manuals too, but of course I have no idea which and where. 😄

@Lauma Pret 🕸️
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Now -> Her_Doing@sunny.garden
Now -> Her_Doing@sunny.garden
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You are going to make a jacket AS WELL?!

Oh Sini, that is going to be STELLAR! 🤩

in reply to Sini Tuulia

Apiary
Apiary
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if the jacket ends above the apex, you can get away with it. And you can get a cool shape out of it.
in reply to Apiary

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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@Apiary The one in the diagram ends at the lower ribs in the back and at the natural waist in the front! I've made an 18th century bodice that only nominally had a side back seam, to make cutting it from one narrow width possible, and it's amazing what you can do on top of stays or with a bit of tailoring
@Apiary

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