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Relatedly, the answer to the question of "Just how wide and full do you want to make these cycling trousers?" seems to be a very firm: "Yes. 😐"

My linen is a bit heavy so I can't go quite as voluminous as my heart yearns for, probably, but I trust the trouser legs will look suitably enormous on my smaller frame nonetheless. And maybe I can make much bigger ones later, from a lighter fabric!

#Sewing #HistoryBounding

#sewing #historyBounding
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
• •

Trying to remember how to draft a hidden button fly for the front, so I go to look at a pair of loose breeches I made years ago. Now I am also thinking about why the heck I would have made it like that on those. Sure it works, but at what cost!

Well. I guess I'll try to look up an old tailoring manual, too. Maybe that will tell me how to draft and sew a hidden button fly...

in reply to Sini Tuulia

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
• •

You know, I think this book might be the one: The Cutters’ Practical Guide to the Cutting and Making of all kinds of Trousers, Breeches and Knickers, to which is added chapters dealing with The Cutting and Making of Highland Kilts, Leggings, Gaiters. 😆

If this book doesn't have a word or two to say on the subject, I'm not sure what kind of book does!

in reply to Sini Tuulia

John McChesney-Young
John McChesney-Young
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The illustrations of full outfits in the first few pages are wonderful and those of the piecing are awe-inspiring. archive.org/details/cutters-pr…
in reply to John McChesney-Young

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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@jmccyoung I'm only at about page 64 of 102, so I'm sure I'm going to see more than I already have!
@John McChesney-Young
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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It does indeed have multiple things to say. "The fly should extend to within 2 inches of the fork; it should be cut a trifle hollower than the topside, as this throws more spring on the outside." And there should be five buttons, okay. But also, I giggled at The Automatic Trouser System.
I'm sure Wallace and Gromit would have words!
A screenshot of diagrams of a tailoring, drafting and sewing manual from the Late Victorian era. In it, there's multiple examples of trouser shapes made with different drafting or cutting systems... And the bottom-most one is titled The Automatic Trouser System. Below it reads: "Novel ideas in trouser cutting." It's not very funny, but it's a little bit funny, because there's a British stop motion film where a pair of robotic trousers is a great deal of inconvenience.

Naomi P reshared this.

in reply to Sini Tuulia

Giselle's very old account
Giselle's very old account
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Well! If the Best Fitting Trousers of England aren't the answer to everyone's prayer! Tee hee hee...
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Giselle
Giselle
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Oops, I just realised that I replied from the wrong account (I was going through old posts), I'll be closing that old account soon, so please ignore that.
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Gulleko
Gulleko
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If that book doesn't have anything, I can dig out a pair of my husband's button-fly jeans and take some pictures if you think that might help. 😄
in reply to Gulleko

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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@Gulleko Oh, it would definitely help, if you'd be so kind! These are pretty heavy on the text and not so laden with images, and I don't have any handy to me.
@Gulleko
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Gulleko
Gulleko
• •

The pair I found was black, so the images aren't great, but hopefully they help!

The buttonhole placket seems to just be a rectangle that's rounded at the bottom, and the edge is bound off with bias. It's sewn to the outside of the pants along the ends of the buttonholes, not at the edge of the placket.

Also if you want more pictures it will have to wait because there's a cat on them now. 😸

the outside of the button placket on a pair of black corduroy jeans.
the inside of the buttonhole placket
the inside of the pants. the button placket has been folded back to show the bottom of the buttonhole placket
a tortoiseshell cat is now on top of the jeans, trying to dig herself into a comfy spot before lying down.
in reply to Gulleko

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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@Gulleko Oh, the button side is a lot wider than I would have thought! And the location of the top-stitching does make more sense, it won't warp and stretch as much. I'd have sewn it on at the edge without thinking about it.
Brumma is also absolutely being of much help. 😸
@Gulleko
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Lauma Pret 🕸️
Lauma Pret 🕸️
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Please, in the end share some selection of the tailoring books you found. I am currently very new in this historical stuff and I get lost very easily on questions like "how Edvardian drawers should be made - looks simple and adjustable, but where do I start". I currently know about Agnes Walker and Bertha Banner, but maybe there are others that everybody except me knows as a good ones for people of the 21st century.
in reply to Lauma Pret 🕸️

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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@laumapret I don't know about the others, but I tend to trawl Archive-dot-org for answers to a specific question, browse through the entire books, bookmark the page I was looking for and only vaguely recall the rest. 😄 The only names I can recall off the top of my head are the Keystone Cutter's Guide and Artistic Dress Cutting And Making! But I could go through my bookmarks and see if I could cobble together some sort of master list of links to everything I've saved along the years? See if any of the blogs and such still exist after all this time.
@Lauma Pret 🕸️
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Lauma Pret 🕸️
Lauma Pret 🕸️
• •
Yeah, and the jacket would work well with split skirt or skirt too.... and I currently own only two jackets only one of which actually fits.... but no. I need a f-load of underwear first. And to keep up on my crafting promises for my friends 😆
in reply to Lauma Pret 🕸️

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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@laumapret I've been making (and wearing) the underwear since 2015 probably, and there's still not quite enough of it. Truly a never ending process, probably pretty accurate to how it felt like at the time!
@Lauma Pret 🕸️
in reply to Lauma Pret 🕸️

Elena ``of Valhalla''
Elena ``of Valhalla''
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@Lauma Pret 🕸️ I'm not @Sini Tuulia and I haven't done a cycling costume (yet :) ), but this is the list of drafting manuals and sewing books that I've used

sewing-patterns.trueelena.org/…

Rather than “useful for people of the 21st century” I can say that they are “useful for a very specific nerd who lives in the 21st century (i.e. me)”, but maybe other people have the same set of quirks as I have and they can be useful :)

@Sini Tuulia @Lauma Pret 🕸️

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