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Browsing old patterning books and magazines to bring my chill levels up, came across this issue of La Vraie Mode from 1905 and chuckled at the hat topping of *an entire bird*

Also I kinda want to make that cape, I really do

#FashionHistory #ArchiveOrg

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Sini Tuulia
@kel It's somewhat exaggerated because it's a fashion illustration, but also the ladies would have been quite drastically padded at both the bust and hip. With the rather large sleeves, the waist just looks tiny
@kel
in reply to Catherine RW

@Polyhymnia There's some good padding on there!
I love how with the cape the pigeon breast is a bit shallower if you look hard, as if the illustrator went "so if you don't feel like wearing all that today, you can look snazzy this way also, the fullness hides it"
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

@valhalla This copy is just 20 pages and seems like it cuts off in the middle of one of those serial novels. Maybe there's a full one somewhere?
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Puts me in mind of a podcast about that very subject : on May 1st, 2018, the podcast "Dressed: the History of Fashion" had an episode called "Murderous Millinery.
(Sorry, too tired and dopy to work out link right now 😬)
in reply to Wonderdog

@caity Oh yeah the Victorian habit of mounting entire birds on heads and outfits is soooo weird. Imagine if they had free access to Australian birds? I reckon they would have hunted some of the prettier ones to extinction!
in reply to Natalie

@Natalie interesting I wonder what's been preserved in our museums? Must look when I'm awake, I know I have photos of emu feathers being used in ladies hats..
in reply to Wonderdog

@caity @Natalie The Audubon Society was sorely needed back then! There was a whole movement to adorn hats with anything but birds and bird plumage, too. Humans have always liked the look of birds and feathers, and the latter provide fun movement and volume without weighing a lot which is concern with hats... But still, personally I'd skip the taxidermy no matter what. πŸ˜‚β€‹

I'd love to see Australian hats, too! I imagine at least some people always used what was available. Even plain old rooster feathers can be made very decorative in various ways, even if people really craved the ostrich plume.

Unknown parent

Sini Tuulia

@kel They're also very tall and slinky! Fashion illustration. πŸ˜„β€‹ They still teach it that way in fashion design classes, just the style changes! For reference, the proportional ratio for anatomy in art is generally "8 heads makes a full adult human height" but we got taught to slap just some 10-14 heads of height on there. No actual human proportions at all, the waist is just easier to spot!

Fashion magazines in some capacity have been around since the 1700s at least and the illustrations have always been idealised, it's just that the ideal is always different. But people were able to tell they were art, versus the new thing where IRL humans are edited to look an impossible way, which is worse.

I can rant about these subjects at the drop of a hat πŸ˜‚β€‹ I should perhaps come with a warning label

@kel
in reply to Sini Tuulia

When your gaze lands upon the page and you just burst out laughing. Probably not the intended effect. πŸ˜„β€‹ (The Delineator, 1895 September.)

Madam, that is too much embellishment!

#FashionHistory #FashionPlates

Questa voce Γ¨ stata modificata (1 anno fa)
in reply to Deetlebee

@deetlebee The competitively widening shoulder line plus keeping an entire notions shop in business with just one cloak
in reply to Sini Tuulia

my grandmother had a phrase for things like that: β€œVictorian fancywork mess”.
in reply to Naomi P

@gannet Definitely all of those things. πŸ˜„β€‹ Certainly they knew how to make a statement while also keeping it classy! This lady in question... went slightly overboard and then just kept on swimming
in reply to Sini Tuulia

@Sini Tuulia surely it's only unbalanced because there isn't enough embellishment on the hat?

(nope, that's not the case, even for their standards :D )

Unknown parent

Sini Tuulia

It makes the clothes look good, apparently. Personally I feel like there's something wrong with the design if it doesn't look good on an actual person. πŸ˜‚β€‹

I did photo editing and assisting for other photographers at one point and it's ridiculous the amount of work goes into the things even before it lands on the editing floor. The sheer amount of clever artifice (or outright deceit, depends who you ask) that goes into a well produced photo these days... It used to be more flagrant, though! Now it's a fine line tread between fake and fake-but-looks-more-real.
People look at some instagram posts with retouching and filters, with studio lighting and a clothing budget and 1-2 hours of makeup and hair - they felt cute earlier and snapped a selfie and then compare the two and go "I don't look like that πŸ˜β€‹"

Questa voce Γ¨ stata modificata (1 anno fa)
Unknown parent

Sini Tuulia
@kel I'd rather have clothes when it's -30 Celsius outside or when the sun doesn't really set and burns your skin most of the time it's up. πŸ˜‚β€‹ But then I definitely have Opinions about what those clothes should be (or at the very least made out of - durable, sustainable, recyclable)
@kel
Unknown parent

Sini Tuulia

It's where I live all year, so. πŸ˜„β€‹ Truly an environment that makes you appreciate useful clothes, if not practical ones.

If you use up whatever you already have and only then get something more environmentally friendly, you've spent less energy and produced less waste than chasing the ideal optimum alternative! The best thing is to not buy at all unless necessary and then investing in something good.
I know my knees prefer me being barefoot, but if I *have* to wear shoes (because of winter and city streets) a moderate correctly shaped heel is surprisingly better than an ill fitting flat shoe. Some people really truly need more support, nothing wrong with having that.

Questa voce Γ¨ stata modificata (1 anno fa)

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