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Last night, instead of sleeping, I was thinking about hats. The start of the 1900s, the decade not the century, is one of those hat eras where pretty much anything goes and I'm sure I have the dregs of some hatting supplies in a box on the shelf... I know for sure I have modern buckram and hat wire! And while I absolutely do not need another hat, I do quite like making them. I mean, it's horrible and difficult, but also fun? Just hat dreams 👒✨

#Millinery #HistoryBounding

#historyBounding #millinery
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Wonderdog
Wonderdog
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MOOOORRRE hats! I was digging through various boxes in the shed today (for art journaling related reasons) and came across a box of millinery supplies and a natty little pillbox that I decorated in an incredible hurry, with netting and coiled zipper roses, and thought, hmmmmmm….
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in reply to Wonderdog

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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@caity "A box of millinery supplies" is something that often and suddenly escapes containment, and then you have a bunch of millinery supplies outside the box, and suddenly there's a new hat - or an old hat with new things on it...
@Wonderdog
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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Me, a day later, just trying to focus on a crafting video so I can settle my brain wrinkles before bed: Tulle netting is kind of cool. It's too bad it's really difficult to find the veil netting you'd use on hats. With all the embellishments like dots, sequins, beads, knots.
My goblin brain: Bet you could do some bead embroidery on lace or tulle netting, and have a sparkly veil to put on a hat...
Me: Oh for fuck's sake
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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Leafing through a dozen different old #Millinery manuals from the 1890s and the 1910s (and one from 1901) and they had all kinds of things to say. Paraphrased:

"It's interesting how a machine sewer in New York gets paid so much more than a woman doing the plaiting by hand in distant China."
"Make a little knot just behind the needle when sewing with doubled up thread, to prevent twisting."
"The selection of ready made hat bases is vast, but it would do to know how to do this yourself, anyway."

#millinery
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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The last thing is a really good thing because the author then went on to describe how you make and cover a wire hat base. I knew wire hat bases existed because I'm like that, but I didn't know they were so common? (Probably because it's hard to tell when a hat is wire and not buckram, because both are covered by fabric.) Anyway, what an accessible option for a historical costumer of today, metal wire is a lot easier to source than buckram...

Also while things went in and out of fashion, there were just so very many different ways to make a hat. And the hat bases, in every shape imaginable!

in reply to Sini Tuulia

Lotta
Lotta
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do you happen to have a link for the wire bases? cause I need a hat and there are too many option for me to choose.
in reply to Lotta

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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@1Atalante1 I'm meaning to go through them today probably, since I didn't make any good notes about what book had which (my tablet is very old and horrible to bookmark and save things on) so I'll try to secure a bunch of good links - shouldn't be too much effort to post them also!
@Lotta
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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I was reading in bed so now I'll have to go through my bookmarks like "now which fucking book had this in it that I didn't stop to fully read" and make note of them, but yeah.

Also there was a full section about why egret plumes were especially bad: Apparently the extremely attractive and swish tuft people loved to put on hats only appears on the egret female when she's hatching chicks, and because the dropped ones are not as nice, hunters would go around killing the birds, or just ripping them out(!) and leaving the mother and hatchlings to die. Jesus fuck!
I mean. Good that you wrote about it, but bad that it happened!

in reply to Sini Tuulia

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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The Wikipedia article for aigrette is really really short and has nothing about the historical bird murder. If I dig up the paragraph, does a Victorian book work as a citation? Does anyone want to mention that on there? en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aigrette

(For reasons of avoiding being lost in eleven thousand rabbit holes I am not allowing myself to edit wikipedia pages.)

#Wikipedia #Millinery


feather ornament for a hat or as a hair ornament

Contributors to Wikimedia projects (Wikimedia Foundation, Inc.)
#Wikipedia #millinery
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in reply to Sini Tuulia

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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And this is the page: archive.org/details/cu31924003…

From the book "Millinery" by Charlotte Rankin Aiken, B.A.
(Former Educational Director, Lasalle and Koch, Toledo, Ohio). Published in 1918.


Millinery : Aiken, Charlotte Rankin : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive

The metadata below describe the original scanning. Follow the All Files: HTTP link in the View the book box to the left to find XML files that contain more...
Internet Archive
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Wonderdog
Wonderdog
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Oooh, thanks for this link! Now, digging in my brain, there was an episode of the podcast “Dressed: The History Of Fashion” way back in May 2018 called “Murderous Millinery” about … yep.
in reply to Wonderdog

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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@caity They killed so many birds for hats, I'd read a bit about the Audubon Society and its history, but the aigrette bit was news to me.

There was also a mention in the book like: "Ostrich feathers are carefully pulled from the bird so as not to hinder the growing in of another one." And like. How the fuck do you carefully pull anything from an *ostrich* 😱😆 And apparently you could get 300 plumes from an ostrich during its lifetime. Poor birds. Sure they drop them, too, but less nice to sell!

@Wonderdog
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Wonderdog
Wonderdog
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Emu feathers are still part of Australian Military Uniforms for some regiments! And no way would I want to try and pull feathers from an emu! 🤣

I had a friend who was a milliner who used to specialise in feathered hats and oooffff, even just “Coq” feathers took a ridiculous amount of prep (and they’re really just plain old chook feather or geese or something) but she used to do these hats that were several thousand hand stitch feathers per hat. Amazing hats, but…

in reply to Wonderdog

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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Sensitive content

@Wonderdog
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Wonderdog
Wonderdog
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Sensitive content

in reply to Sini Tuulia

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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@caity The benzene was apparently great for freshening up the side feathers a rooster would sort of drag across the ground to show the hens what a big and fierce rooster he is!
"Benzene should be used in open air." How about not at all, really! Ah.
@Wonderdog
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Wonderdog
Wonderdog
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I have so many sewing/housekeeping books that recommend benzene as “a wonderful spot cleaner for tweeds and woollens” ummm nope!
in reply to Wonderdog

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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@caity I mean, it does work. Definitely does work. But at what cost...
@Wonderdog
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Elena ``of Valhalla''
Elena ``of Valhalla''
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@Sini Tuulia @Wonderdog I have to admit that if there was a way to have a bird-looking thing that a) wasn't plastic b) didn't involve killing birds c) was cheap, I would have a hat with a bird on it, or at the very least a plan to make one :D
@Sini Tuulia @Wonderdog
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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@valhalla @caity In this one book they were talking about how to make a fabric wing shape. An artistic lace and wire interpretation of An Entire Bird would probably look quite cool!
@Elena ``of Valhalla'' @Wonderdog
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Weil Averdui
Weil Averdui
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i should go and look at this book some day... I have waaaay too many historical manuals to read, lol. Including an 18 century one in french for shoemaking
in reply to Weil Averdui

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
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@weilaverdui My reading list is also quite long... I'll flip or browse through one, speed read whatever hits my eye and is interesting, then put them on the pile like: "I'll get to this to properly read all of it, at some point..." 😅
@Weil Averdui

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