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This is a traditional women’s dress of Ochagavía, a mountain town in Navarre near French border, 1900s.

For centuries, Navarre was an independent kingdom. It emerged in early Middle Ages and, at its height, included lands on both sides of the Pyrenees. This independence lasted until 1512, when southern portion was conquered by Ferdinand of Aragon and integrated into Spain, while a smaller northern part remained under French influence.

#archaeohistories

#archaeohistories
in reply to Archaeo-Histories

SewBlue
SewBlue
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The pleats on the shawls and skirts would be difficult to maintain before modern industrial heat setting.

These garments represent hours at an ironing board to make those pleats in what appears to be heavy fabric.

in reply to SewBlue

geschichtenundmeer
geschichtenundmeer
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@sewblue Are they wearing scarves and skirts, or are they wearing several layers of skirts and just throw the upper skirt over their heads to protect themselves from rain and cold weather? (Still, the pleating would require hours of work.)
@SewBlue
in reply to geschichtenundmeer

SewBlue
SewBlue
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@geschichtenundmeer without additional photos, I think it is a kilt/sari/toga thing, where a garment is basically a length of fabric bound and draped around the body.

The veil ends appear to curve around the lower body, like a corner is tucked under a belt from behind. It is also possible it had been shaped into a garment, like modern kilts often are.

Would need more pictures to be sure. But am pretty sure you could drape yardage for this look. That it is impractical would be part of the point.

@geschichtenundmeer
in reply to SewBlue

Elena ``of Valhalla''
Elena ``of Valhalla''
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@SewBlue @Archaeo-Histories I think that in 1900 they had machines to do that kind of pleating (and it was probably easier for middle class city people to have natural fiber fabric pleated by machine than it it today), but I have no idea how accessible they would be to people wearing traditional clothing in rural settings
@Archaeo-Histories @SewBlue
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

SewBlue
SewBlue
• •

@valhalla I have an extant silk gown from about 1880 with machine set pleats. Pleats were fairly rare in fashion until about 1870, popularized with the new machines. For about 20 years so or was rare to see a high end gown without pleats at the hem, or the very least, a couple wide bands of ruffles. They were then added to the inside in the linings until full skirts went out of fashion.

Pleats take up fabric at 3:1, making them extravagant on that level too.

That said, most dressmakers only had access to machines that did trimming widths of fabric. Fully pleated fabric widths were rare, and not common until Fortuni came around.

This picture doesn't have the machine made regularity I've seen. It looks more like hand pleated or done on a pleater board and set.

But also probably influenced by the popular fashions on the day.

@Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to SewBlue

Syphilia Morgenstierne
Syphilia Morgenstierne
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Well not necessarily. It's probably wool. There is an old method to make permanent pleats in wool. I think they folded the cloth very tightly and first soaked it, then dried it, perhaps several times, and then let it rest maybe for years (folded, of course) before they started to make clothes of it.
Questa voce è stata modificata (2 giorni fa)
in reply to Syphilia Morgenstierne

SewBlue
SewBlue
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Still very labor intensive!

I forgot to add: thank you for sharing! Very interesting to learn of older techniques.

Questa voce è stata modificata (2 giorni fa)

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