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So, it’s almost done. The last and trickiest thing is left to do - sew on the collar, which needs to be done by hand.

I’m still not sure about the seam pockets. They went in easily, but they’re fucking with the line of the garment. If you look closely at the side seam, it’s sagging a bit. Probably not going to be obvious when it’s worn, but still. I’m wondering if it would be better to pull them out and make front patch pockets instead. What do you think?
#Sewing

Haori style coat in grey with a black lining.
#sewing
in reply to Madeleine Morris

Eric McCorkle
Eric McCorkle
• •

I have wanted to try making my own clothes for some time.

I have negative free time, but this is making me want to do that again.

in reply to Eric McCorkle

Madeleine Morris
Madeleine Morris
• •

@emc2 If you’re interested in these types of garments (which are very logical to make), let me introduce you to House of Kimono - this guy inspired me and made me feel capable.

youtube.com/@houseofkimono


House of Kimono

House of Kimono is a YouTube channel dedicated to all things Kimono. Learn how to make your own kimono from Japanese and Western fabrics, decorate your Kimono, and explore the history of this beautiful garment.
YouTube
@Eric McCorkle
in reply to Madeleine Morris

Eric McCorkle
Eric McCorkle
• •

Appreciated! It's not quite what I have in mind, but there are almost certainly techniques I can borrow there for warmer-weather styles.

(Now, if I can only figure out how to clone myself so I can have the time...)

in reply to Madeleine Morris

Madeleine Morris
Madeleine Morris
• •
I loathe the idea of all the unpicking it will entail to get those pockets out of the seams, but fuck it. They need to go. I hate the way they’re making the coat look rumpled at the sides.
Questa voce è stata modificata (1 giorno fa)
in reply to Madeleine Morris

Real Syntactic
Real Syntactic
• •
it’s beautiful—I love the play of neutrals and textures—and you’re right about the line. In an open-fronted garment, you really can put the pockets in the lining seams, or do a flapped patch pocket to the lining. If the flap overlaps slightly and you stitch its sides down, things won’t fall out when you bend. I think patch pockets would also be very elegant, though obviously less traditional!
in reply to Madeleine Morris

Annie
Annie
• •

Hmmm. Sounds like the pocket construction might've benefited from a bit of interfacing to keep everything crisp looking. Don't know if there's a way to apply it after the fact, or where best to use it for this garment. But usually when things sag or roll, the answer is invariably "interfacing."

Absolutely beautiful garment in any case.

Questa voce è stata modificata (1 giorno fa)
in reply to Annie

Madeleine Morris
Madeleine Morris
• •
@anne Thank you so much. I took out the seam pockets, and while it hurt to see so much time wasted, the garment is hanging so much better. I have some extra fabric so I will make some patch pockets in the front.
@Annie
in reply to Madeleine Morris

Zoë K
Zoë K
• •
the key words being: “if you look closely”. No one else is going to look that closely unless you point it out and even then they won’t care unless they also sew. If it will drive you crazy to leave it, then by all means fix it now. Otherwise don’t worry about it.
in reply to Zoë K

Madeleine Morris
Madeleine Morris
• •
@zoeking It will drive me crazy. I’ve already pulled one of them out, and sewn up the seam, and it looks way better.
@Zoë K
in reply to Madeleine Morris

Zoë K
Zoë K
• •
fair enough. I once made a drawstring bag from striped fabric and many years later I could tell I hadn’t cut it on grain. So I took it apart and fixed it. Much happier now. If it needs to be done, it needs to be done!
in reply to Madeleine Morris

Karmic Resonance
Karmic Resonance
• •
I have an irrational dislike of patch pockets - I would rather wear gloves and have hidden pockets inside.
It is looking elegant and lovely. Thank you for sharing.
in reply to Madeleine Morris

Just Knitting Dyke
Just Knitting Dyke
• •

We who make things like this with our hands , see the mistakes/missteps/what's wrong.

The people who wear the things we make love them. They don't see what you see.

I love side pockets. I'd keep the side pockets.

in reply to Just Knitting Dyke

Madeleine Morris
Madeleine Morris
• •
@KnittingDyke I love them too, but the construction just doesn’t love them. It has to do with the fact that the side seam isn’t supported by a shoulder. If the coat had an inset sleeve, they’d work fine. But what is happening, because the side-seams on these kimono style constructions are half way down the upper arm, is that the pockets are dragging and causing ugly sideways pulling. Side pockets are simply not good for this structure 😂
@Just Knitting Dyke
in reply to Madeleine Morris

Just Knitting Dyke
Just Knitting Dyke
• •

What I'm saying is that the maker sees it but other people don't see it.

I do not see the "ugly" that you see.

I would 100% wear that.

Knitters know these things. We see all our mistakes and think it makes them ugly. Others do not.

Questa voce è stata modificata (1 giorno fa)
in reply to Madeleine Morris

Madeleine Morris
Madeleine Morris
• •
In the continuing saga of the side seam pockets, I removed them. And as you can see, the line is back to pretty close to perfection. There’s still a bit of bagging on the sides, where the pockets used to be, but I’m pretty sure that’s from fabric stretching and it will wash back to flat. #Sewing #Haori
Grey long haori-style coat
#sewing #haori
Questa voce è stata modificata (1 giorno fa)
in reply to Madeleine Morris

Frans Super 🇺🇦🇵🇸🍋 FKNZS🔻
Frans Super 🇺🇦🇵🇸🍋 FKNZS🔻
• •
Truly an A+, Madeleine. I didn't understand the seam pockets, now I do. And it was a good choice to remove them. Perfectionism isn't all that bad. This looks great, really will look great on you.
Questa voce è stata modificata (1 giorno fa)
in reply to Frans Super 🇺🇦🇵🇸🍋 FKNZS🔻

Madeleine Morris
Madeleine Morris
• •
@apenkop Heheh. There is no such thing as perfection, but I am a bit obsessive. And I have the luxury of time to make corrections. Not like working seamstresses, who have to get things done on a deadline!
@Frans Super 🇺🇦🇵🇸🍋 FKNZS🔻
in reply to Madeleine Morris

Madeleine Morris
Madeleine Morris
• •

Now… shall we have patch pockets on the outside, or make useful ones on the inside? A coat without pockets seems a rather silly thing to me.

I do like the way the pockets break up the expanse of fabric. Hmm. What do we think?

#Sewing #Haori

Grey haori style coat with a patch pocket pinned on to the left hand side
#sewing #haori
in reply to Madeleine Morris

Anthony
Anthony
• •
if it was me I would have both. 🤔
in reply to Anthony

Madeleine Morris
Madeleine Morris
• •

@skyfire747 Oooh, interesting! It would preserve the line pristinely.

I don’t think my ethical orientation will let me make a fake pocket! hahahahahah😂

@Anthony
in reply to Madeleine Morris

Gulleko
Gulleko
• •
If it's cold out you don't really want to open your coat to get your keys/wallet, so I would do patch pockets. But having extra inside pockets can be very nice too. 😅
in reply to Madeleine Morris

Frank Bennett
Frank Bennett
• •
No knowledge and no skill here, but I'd think access at shoulder level to an inside. (hidden) hand-size pocket on either side would be convenient, and wouldn't distort the fall of the fabric at the waist.
in reply to Frank Bennett

Madeleine Morris
Madeleine Morris
• •
@fgbjr Well, funny you should mention it, but there already are two hidden pockets, hehe. Look at the sleeves.
@Frank Bennett
in reply to Madeleine Morris

Baggypants
Baggypants
• •
pockets on the sleeves! (I've no idea about making clothes)
in reply to Baggypants

Madeleine Morris
Madeleine Morris
• •

@Baggypants I noticed you wanted pockets on the sleeves on the quilted jacket too! You like those.

I’ll tell you a little secret with these kind of haoris - the sleeves ARE pockets. 😉

@Baggypants
in reply to Madeleine Morris

Madeleine Morris
Madeleine Morris
• •
Alrightee. That was a bit of a slog, but here we are - a haori coat with side slits and patch pockets. For those of you who know about Japanese garments, you’ll be aware of the dramatically long collar’s friend is not at all traditional, nor is the collar that stops before the hem, in the echo of a kimono collar. It’s eccentric but in a very quiet way. I’m rather proud of it. #sewing
Haori coat - grey with black lining, with one side open
Haori with both sides open
#sewing

SewBlue reshared this.

in reply to Madeleine Morris

Lilly Hunter
Lilly Hunter
• •
That turned out beautiful!
in reply to Lilly Hunter

Madeleine Morris
Madeleine Morris
• •
@LaChasseuse I think so. I tried it on and it’s just right. It’s going to look mighty funky with a hoodie beneath. 😂
@Lilly Hunter
in reply to Lilly Hunter

Madeleine Morris
Madeleine Morris
• •
@LaChasseuse I live in the south of Spain, so it’s actually a coat. It’s fairly warm. Wouldn’t do for colder climes, but for here, it’s pretty useful to just wear out with anything.
@Lilly Hunter
in reply to Madeleine Morris

Madeleine Morris
Madeleine Morris
• •

Meanwhile, look what I scored: two old vintage tanmono (fabric bolts specifically for making kimono).

Both are pure silk. One is 12 meters and the other 22 meters. 26 and 27 Euros respectively. (for each entire bolt)

I don’t know what the import duties are going to run me, but if it’s feasible, I’m going to seriously consider starting a business. #sewing

Bolt of raw silk vintage kimono fabric in deep orange with cream and black threads woven into the cloth in a vaguely geometric pattern.
Steel blue fabric bolt of kimono raw silk fabric with original maker’s seal
#sewing
Questa voce è stata modificata (19 ore fa)

SewBlue reshared this.

in reply to Madeleine Morris

Madeleine Morris
Madeleine Morris
• •

It’s going to be a learning curve to figure out what to do with these. They’re both raw silk. They’re 60 years old.

Making stuff that requires dry cleaning seems fundamentally ecologically unethical to me, so I’m going to snag a little from each bolt and wash it in the machine and see what happens to it.

Garments should be wearable, and not require you to break the bank or ruin the planet to get it clean. #sewing

#sewing
Questa voce è stata modificata (18 ore fa)
in reply to Madeleine Morris

Erik Ableson
Erik Ableson
• •
At the risk of opening a bottomless rabbit hole, what did we do to wash silk before dry-cleaning? I’m guessing we had several thousand years of silk clothes before this was an option.
in reply to Erik Ableson

Madeleine Morris
Madeleine Morris
• •
I don’t know what they did in Europe. In Japan they would completely unpick the kimono, sew it back into a full bolt, with the bits stitched together with whip stitches and join it in a giant belt, and they had a mechanical machine like a spinner that ran a single layer over a huge vat of steaming water. It took about 3 hours of the belt of silk rotating over the vat to get it clean. Then someone would dry it indoors, and sew the kimono back together.
Questa voce è stata modificata (18 ore fa)
in reply to Erik Ableson

Elena ``of Valhalla''
Elena ``of Valhalla''
•

@Erik Ableson @Madeleine Morris for western clothes (because that's what I know best) one option was simply not washing them

you usually wore at least one layer (often two) of sturdy, white-ish linen close to the skin, and that got washed regularly with the harsh methods in use back then (boiling and beating), while the outer layers only got brushed and aired out

of course one wouldn't wear their fancy silk clothing while doing dirty work of any kind, and other clothes were protected with aprons and other strategically placed items (e.g. sleeve protectors when writing or doing other office work).

to be fair, at the end of the season your fancy clothing could at times end up being unpicked and re-dyed, which I assume involved some kind of washing (and any stained part could be avoided when reusing the fabric to remake a different looking dress).

@Madeleine Morris @Erik Ableson
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Elena ``of Valhalla''
Elena ``of Valhalla''
•

@Madeleine Morris @Erik Ableson also, as long as you're using a protein-safe detergent (i.e. no enzymes, and acidic rather than alkaline) a lot of silks can go quite safely in the washing machine, especially on a delicates cycle.

others can go in the washing machine and remain usable, but they change properties (so it depends on whether the garment you're making needs those properties)

sartorbohemia.com/article/14/h… ----> this is a shop that tested the fabric they sell and there are a lot of details

@Madeleine Morris @Erik Ableson
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Eva Harasta
Eva Harasta
• •
@valhalla @erik Now I am wondering whether the coronation cloak (12th century Sicilian silk) was ever washed in all the time it was used in coronations - from the 12th century to the early 19th century.
The coronation cloak, or rather cape. It is a semi-circular, open cloak that reaches down to the ground, 342 centimetres wide. It is made of red silk and is richly embroidered with gold threads, over 100,000 pearls and enamel plates. The motifs are mirrored symmetrically: In each of the two quarters of the semi-circle, a lion subdues a camel. The two lions are separated by a tree. An Arabic inscription runs along the whole edge of the cloak. (The inscription praises the workshop that made the silk, Wikipedia says.)
@Elena ``of Valhalla'' @Erik Ableson
in reply to Madeleine Morris

Kate Bowles
Kate Bowles
• •
I just wanted to let you know that I watch your sewing projects and reflections with much appreciation! Thank you.
in reply to Kate Bowles

Madeleine Morris
Madeleine Morris
• •
@kate Oh, I’m so delighted they are a bit entertaining. I’m on a learning journey, so I try to make sure people know I fuck up all the time. And that’s okay. Because the internet is full of ‘influencers’ making everything look perfect and easy.
@Kate Bowles
in reply to Madeleine Morris

Leah Kiser
Leah Kiser
• •
I do wash dry cleanables with water, on gentle in the machine, too - but I don't put them in the dryer. I dry them on the line or rack. I've never had any problems with that.
in reply to Leah Kiser

Madeleine Morris
Madeleine Morris
• •

@LeahKiser I have heard that it is possible, especially if one uses a laundry bag and Castile soap. Well, I’ll be giving it a try because needs must!

I have a dryer I inherited from the previous owner of the house, but I’ve never used it. hehe.

@Leah Kiser
in reply to Madeleine Morris

M.Sie
M.Sie
• •
what kind of business do you think of? You are so creative, I'm curious
😊.
The fabric looks wonderful.
in reply to Madeleine Morris

Chris 🏳️‍🌈🧵🧝🏼
Chris 🏳️‍🌈🧵🧝🏼
• •
I think that this looks great! The minor imperfection with the pockets is only noticeable if one knows to look for it.
in reply to Chris 🏳️‍🌈🧵🧝🏼

Madeleine Morris
Madeleine Morris
• •
@elfkin But when I put it on, I could tell it wasn’t sitting right on my shoulders. Because there’s no shoulder seam, no inset sleeve seam to support the weight below, it was not feeling good either.
@Chris 🏳️‍🌈🧵🧝🏼

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