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Making a super basic and simple (and zero waste) petticoat for a house skirt. This half of an old duvet cover is a very thick, dense and very very soft cotton.

I folded the sheet, marked a 4cm dip along one side and cut there, to make the centre front 8cm shorter than the back. Machine stitched side seams, then felled down the seam allowance by hand. Currently in process of hemming.

#Sewing #UpCycling

A photo of a length of fabric draped over an ironing board. Sini's hand is in the frame. There is a line of yellow digitally drawn on, to make the yellow chalk marking more visible in the image. There is the notation "4cm" on top of the centre front fold. The drawn line dips deepest at the centre front and tapers to nothing at the side seam. A mechanical chalk pen and scissors in the frame.
Showing the side seam and the slits, originally called, and I suppose still functioning as, pocket slits... The seam is sewn together up until 20cm from the top edge, from which point the seam allowance has been felled down into a rolled hem. The seam allowance of the seam has been felled down. There are barely visible and loosely but evenly spaced whipstitches.
Basting stitches all along the bottom hem, which has been turned with a 4cm deep hem. The basting or tacking stitches are very widely placed, but the fabric has been ironed to hold the hem and seems to have no trouble doing so. The lighting in the photo is much darker than in the first one, denoting sunset.
#sewing #upcycling

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in reply to Sini Tuulia

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
• •

Musti is often keeping me company when I sew, but there's a lot fewer clips or photos of him doing so, because his velvety black fur gets pretty much lost in my black clothes!

#Cats #HandSewing

#cats #handsewing
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Berg Am Laimerin
Berg Am Laimerin
• •
The conflict between visible cat in pictures and visible cat hairs on clothing ...
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Marta 🌿🍃
Marta 🌿🍃
• •
Precious
Will the skirt be pulled to cinch and tied on?
in reply to Marta 🌿🍃

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
• •
@Triffen It's an 18th century petticoat, so the skirt is pleated onto a fixed size waistband which then has ties attached to it. The ties go around the body and the waistband and skirt sides overlap a bit at the waist.
@Marta 🌿🍃
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Marta 🌿🍃
Marta 🌿🍃
• •
Ah, so the same design as before. I thought maybe it was something different this time.
Do you add pockets?
in reply to Marta 🌿🍃

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
• •

@Triffen Yeah, it's a very good way to make use of an old sheet you no longer use because you have nicer ones.

No pockets! Mostly because it would be extra work and I've not been putting them in my clothes long enough that I no longer use them. 😂​ Also they're really annoying to iron.

@Marta 🌿🍃
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Marta 🌿🍃
Marta 🌿🍃
• •
That's what currently stopping me from the project, not easy way to add pockets and I'm not fiddling with those that tie one, I'll have two ties on my waist already and don't need more.
in reply to Marta 🌿🍃

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
• •
@Triffen I generally just don't use pockets at all. I forget they're there and if I put something in them, I forget to take it out. The very few times I actually need a pocket, I'll just tie one of the loose ones on, they disappear pretty well under Victorian skirts as well and then I'm wearing so many things already that it doesn't really matter that much 😅​
@Marta 🌿🍃
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
• •

Yet another lesson of "Just do it properly the first time" because I spent so many hours yesterday trying to get nice uniform pleats because I tried to use shortcuts first, and redoing and redoing... And then when I started on the other side, and did it properly, it didn't even take that long.

Measured calculated marks on the fabric, two rows of pleating threads, then you pin the resulting pleats and sew onto waistband, flip. Here still basted down.

Photo of a mass of faded black fabric with two lines of pleasantly uniform and very widely set apart basting threads.
Photo of what results, with several steps skipped. Here we see pleasantly uniform 1,2cm wide pleats attached to a solid waistband, which is on the reverse side. The pleats are attached and sewn on along the top and basted down on the right side, to control the movement and volume of the pleats until they are sewn down along the bottom of the waistband as well. If it sounds complicated that's because there are indeed multiple multiple tedious steps that go to making something look nice and neat, even though the end result looks very simple in the end.
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Her_Doing
Her_Doing
• •

One of my two favourite bosses ever used to stress 'Do it right, then you don't have to it again'.

Specifically, use tongs to put ice in a glass. If you shove the glass in the ice bin & it chips, you have roll the ice bin (bigger than a bar fridge) to a dumping ground, wash it, be sure it's dry & absolutely clean, refill with ice (an ice bin holds a LOT of ice), wheel it back, and carry on.

In the middle of a busy service?! No one has time for that. Do it right the first time.

in reply to Her_Doing

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
• •

@Her_Doing Absolutely! I usually remind everyone I can of just doing it properly once and every time I disregard my own advice it's a minor or full blown disaster that could have very easily been avoided.

I feel like if not being able to use the tongs, a metal scoop would also work, but *definitely* not using the glass to scoop!

@Her_Doing
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Her_Doing
Her_Doing
• •

You're right, it *was* a metal scoop. (I was also a bartender in the same place, w the same boss, & conflated the two.)

But that image of a tiny glass chip in a bin of ice has stayed with me forever. You can see how easily it could happen, as well as the consequences just for us as staff (it was a *busy* place), let alone for the guest.

He was such an excellent boss - but that one lesson esp has stayed with me.

And I still flinch whenever I see someone use a glass to scoop ice.

in reply to Sini Tuulia

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
• •

The photos look atrocious because it's black fabric and after sundown, but:

There's the little stay stitching that is really just loops from the ridge of one pleat onto the next, to keep them in order. The waistband is just a flimsy piece of fabric, mostly to hide the seam allowances and lessen bulk. The band is flipped to reverse, basted in place from both back and front. Then there's the spaced back-stitch from the right side, and neatening up the band from the reverse.

Photo from the reverse side of the waistband and the inside of the skirt. There is a multitude of fairly neat pleats, sewn onto the waistband, and the free flowing body of them summarily sewn in place with what is essentially just thread going from top of pleat to the next. The waistband material is a thin much darker batiste and there are the ends of yellow waist ties sewn onto the ends of it.
Very close up photo of the teeny tiny spaced backstitch going across all of the pleats and the hidden waistband. The stitches themselves are nearly invisible on the black fabric, but going through all layers they're rather sturdy. The pleats are held in place on the front with loose basting stitches.
Close up photo of the inside of the waistband. The soft and thin fabric wants to roll over the seam allowance a bit. There are loose and vastly spaced whipstitches attaching the folded edge of the waistband down onto the skirt body, with the reverse side of the backstitches visible and following along the edge of the band.
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
• •

When you just do it properly, it turns out really nice!

#Sewing #HandSewing (and machine sewing)

Photo of the final result of the multiple steps of sewing the waist from the previous post in the thread. There is a mass of tidy and nice pleats following along the shape of a hidden waistband, ending in yellow waist ties. The fabric is a thick and worn black cotton. There is a barely visible line of spaced backstitches holding down both the hidden waistband and the multitude of pleats. It looks nice, durable and neat. The whole thing is held up by Sini's disembodied hand.
#sewing #handsewing
Questa voce è stata modificata (1 anno fa)
in reply to Sini Tuulia

vulgalour
vulgalour
• •
That's beautiful work.
in reply to vulgalour

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
• •
@vulgalour Thank you! I was momentarily seduced by low effort sewing and then returned to my slow and meticulous ways 😄​
@vulgalour
in reply to Sini Tuulia

marius
marius
• •
are they knife pleats? And what was the design decision for folding them over the waistband? (Curious minds want to know) :D
in reply to marius

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
• •
Knife pleats all along, with the pleats falling towards the back, except there's a box pleat at the centre front and centre back to reverse directions and to look pretty.
They did them this way too, historically, as far as I recall, if missing a good wide waist tie with enough length to bind the top edges off with. It's less bulk than sewing on a thicker waistband with even more seam allowances pressed inside it! My waist tie is also bright yellow, so I thought I'd do it like this, more subtle 😄​
Questa voce è stata modificata (1 anno fa)
in reply to Sini Tuulia

marius
marius
• •
the reply was met with approving mumbling and "sick! I love a good box pleat"
in reply to marius

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
• •
@mariusor In some manuals I've seen them do *double box pleats* at the centre front and back, but it would have required more thinking and maths from me so they're just single ones 😂​
@marius
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Lotta
Lotta
• •
uhhhh that looks nice
in reply to Lotta

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
• •
@1Atalante1 Thank you! The amount of work that I've put into this "casual and fast house skirt" has swiftly gotten out of hand
@Lotta
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Lotta
Lotta
• •
isn't it always.
Last month I decided to add "a bit" of smocking to an easy linen shirt, while on a train!
in reply to Lotta

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
• •
@1Atalante1 And indeed a bit of smocking was added. 😂​ I feel like if I learned how to do smocking it would go like it did when I learned cartridge pleating: I used it on everything and can't help but use some of the techniques every time I gather something!
@Lotta
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Lotta
Lotta
• •
I mean, english smocking is not very hard, and I did not try to add nativ american smocking without the help of paper.
But yeah, I now can do both and hated myself after I finished the first sleeve, mainly because I needed to smock the second one as well (each sleeve took around 5(!) hours)
in reply to Lotta

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
• •

@1Atalante1 😄​ Yeah.
It's not that all the extra steps are necessarily hard, but sometimes I do sit there after 4 hours of sewing and think "this would have been 20 minutes if I did it badly on the machine"

On a train, though, there's not much else worthwhile to do

@Lotta
in reply to Sini Tuulia

Lotta
Lotta
• •
I had a bit of knitting, a few ebooks and a lot of podcasts with me.
But yeah
in reply to Sini Tuulia

CJ the Awkward Lefty
CJ the Awkward Lefty
• •
I love how historical waistbands are, like, the most minimal fabric possible. Apparently sometimes ribbon was used? (at least in Victorian garments)
in reply to CJ the Awkward Lefty

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
• •
@awkwardlefty_cj Depends a bit on the use case, but yes, especially when a lot of fabric is gathered onto the waist. And it would probably have been a lot cheaper to use a bit of ribbon as opposed to sacrificing a bit of the skirt fabric for the waistband, if it wasn't meant to be seen anyway!
@CJ the Awkward Lefty
Unknown parent

Sini Tuulia
Sini Tuulia
• •
@sewblue Just to wear at home, but technically close enough to historical when viewed from a bit of distance to wear with historical also. 😄​
Hours and hours of later I'm pleased with the pleats, too!
@SewBlue

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