The #RSS spec was released 25 years ago on this day. Happy birthday, RSS! 🎂 🎉 🎁
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and this morning I successfully prepared my #tea
and then left it in the kitchen (luckily I had to go there some 10 minutes afterwards, so it didn't cool down too much)
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e stamattina son riuscita a prepararmi correttamente il #té
e poi l'ho dimenticato in cucina (per fortuna ho dovuto tornarci 10 minuti dopo e non si era raffreddato troppo)
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And I think it's time for a new #sewing update.
The shift is progressing nicely, I'm quite happy with the way the sleeves look, and it's getting close to being all assembled together.
In the weekend I've finished the market bag, which means that in category “long straight seams” I've started to work on a corded petticoat.
I've worked on it for more than one hour, and I'm about half through the first seam.
Maybe I should have done it by machine? But at least it is nice and relaxing work, even if it's going to take forever.
As for the lining of the stays… look! a squirrel!
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Also, have I ever mentioned that I have the Italian translation of the famous Reader's Digest sewing book, and that when I write these posts I often have to go through it to find the Italian terms I need for the translation?
Yes, I have learned the basics of #sewing in Italian, but everything else in English on the internet, does it show? :D
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Ah, e ho mai detto che ho la traduzione italiana del famoso libro di cucito di Selezione dal Reader's Digest, e che quando scrivo questi post spesso lo uso per trovare i termini italiani che mi servono per la traduzione?
Sì, ho imparato le basi del #cucito in italiano, ma tutto il resto in inglese su internet, si nota? :D
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@ashneehs
Ditto for me with machines like lathes etc.
It took me a lot of time to discover that a gib is called "lardone".
https://yt.cdaut.de/watch?v=jRTHjP0sC-o
Matching Dovetails - Adding a Gib
In this video I will mill down the male side of the matching dovetail and add a gib.MrPragmaticLee | Invidious
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Avresti dovuto vedere la faccia della commessa a cui ho chiesto dell'interfaccia fusibile 😂 tutt'ora non mi ricordo come si dica in italiano
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Low Fat, No Eggs, Lasagna-ish
Posted on March 10, 2024
Tags: madeof:atoms, craft:cooking
A few notes on what we had for lunch, to be able to repeat it after the summer.
There were a number of food intolerance related restrictions which meant that the traditional lasagna recipe wasn’t an option; the result still tasted good, but it was a bit softer and messier to take out of the pan and into the dishes.
On Saturday afternoon we made fresh no-egg pasta with 200 g (durum) flour and 100 g water, after about 1 hour it was divided in 6 parts and rolled to thickness #6 on the pasta machine.
Meanwhile, about 500 ml of low fat almost-ragù-like meat sauce was taken out of the freezer: this was a bit too little, 750 ml would have been better.
On Saturday evening we made a sauce with 1 l of low-fat milk and 80 g of flour, and the meat sauce was heated up.
Then everything was put in a 28 cm × 23 cm pan, with 6 layers of pasta and 7 layers of the two sauces, and left to cool down.
And on Sunday morning it was baked for 35 min in the oven at 180 °C.
With 3 people we only had about two thirds of it.
Next time I think we should try to use 400 - 500 g of flour (so that it’s easier to work by machine), 2 l of milk, 1.5 l of meat sauce and divide it into 3 pans: one to eat the next day and two to freeze (uncooked) for another day.
No pictures, because by the time I thought about writing a post we were already more than halfway through eating it :)
https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/drafts/low_fat_no_eggs_lasagna_ish/index.html
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Elastic Neck Top Two: MOAR Ruffles
Posted on March 9, 2024
Tags: madeof:atoms, craft:sewing, FreeSoftWear
After making my Elastic Neck TopI knew I wanted to make another one less constrained by the amount of available fabric.
I had a big cut of white cotton voile, I bought some more swimsuit elastic, and I also had a spool of n°100 sewing cotton, but then I postponed the project for a while I was working on other things.
Then FOSDEM 2024 arrived, I was going to remote it, and I was working on my Augusta Stays, but I knew that in the middle of FOSDEM I risked getting to the stage where I needed to leave the computer to try the stays on: not something really compatible with the frenetic pace of a FOSDEM weekend, even one spent at home.
I needed a backup project1, and this was perfect: I already had everything I needed, the pattern and instructions were already on my site (so I didn’t need to take pictures while working), and it was mostly a lot of straight seams, perfect while watching conference videos.
So, on the Friday before FOSDEM I cut all of the pieces, then spent three quarters of FOSDEM on the stays, and when I reached the point where I needed to stop for a fit test I started on the top.
Like the first one, everything was sewn by hand, and one week after I had started everything was assembled, except for the casings for the elastic at the neck and cuffs, which required about 10 km of sewing, and even if it was just a running stitch it made me want to reconsider my lifestyle choices a few times: there was really no reason for me not to do just those seams by machine in a few minutes.
Instead I kept sewing by hand whenever I had time for it, and on the next weekend it was ready. We had a rare day of sun during the weekend, so I wore my thermal underwear, some other layer, a scarf around my neck, and went outside with my SO to have a batch of pictures taken (those in the jeans posts, and others for a post I haven’t written yet. Have I mentioned I have a backlog?).
And then the top went into the wardrobe, and it will come out again when the weather will be a bit warmer. Or maybe it will be used under the Augusta Stays, since I don’t have a 1700 chemise yet, but that requires actually finishing them.
The pattern for this project was already online, of course, but I’ve added a picture of the casing to the relevant section, and everything is as usual #FreeSoftWear.
- yes, I could have worked on some knitting WIP, but lately I’m more in a sewing mood.↩︎
https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2024/03/09-elastic_neck_top_two_moar_ruffles/index.html
Augusta Stays 1775-1789
The Augusta Stays are the perfect foundation to any late 18th century wardrobe. Choose between detailed instructions on how to make the stays with period accurate materials and construction methods, or equally detailed instructions on making a simpli…Scroop Patterns
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Denim Waistcoat
Posted on March 8, 2024
Tags: madeof:atoms, craft:sewing, FreeSoftWear
I had finished sewing my jeans, I had a scant 50 cm of elastic denim left.
Unrelated to that, I had just finished drafting a vest with Valentina, after the Cutters’ Practical Guide to the Cutting of Ladies Garments.
A new pattern requires a (wearable) mockup. 50 cm of leftover fabric require a quick project. The decision didn’t take a lot of time.
As a mockup, I kept things easy: single layer with no lining, some edges finished with a topstitched hem and some with bias tape, and plain tape on the fronts, to give more support to the buttons and buttonholes.
I did add pockets: not real welt ones (too much effort on denim), but simple slits covered by flaps.
piece; there is a slit in the middle that has been finished with topstitching.
To do them I marked the slits, then I cut two rectangles of pocketing fabric that should have been as wide as the slit + 1.5 cm (width of the pocket) + 3 cm (allowances) and twice the sum of as tall as I wanted the pocket to be plus 1 cm (space above the slit) + 1.5 cm (allowances).
Then I put the rectangle on the right side of the denim, aligned so that the top edge was 2.5 cm above the slit, sewed 2 mm from the slit, cut, turned the pocketing to the wrong side, pressed and topstitched 2 mm from the fold to finish the slit.
other sides; it does not lay flat on the right side of the fabric because the finished slit (hidden in the picture) is pulling it.
Then I turned the pocketing back to the right side, folded it in half, sewed the side and top seams with a small allowance, pressed and turned it again to the wrong side, where I sewed the seams again to make a french seam.
And finally, a simple rectangular denim flap was topstitched to the front, covering the slits.
I wasn’t as precise as I should have been and the pockets aren’t exactly the right size, but they will do to see if I got the positions right (I think that the breast one should be a cm or so lower, the waist ones are fine), and of course they are tiny, but that’s to be expected from a waistcoat.
The other thing that wasn’t exactly as expected is the back: the pattern splits the bottom part of the back to give it “sufficient spring over the hips”. The book is probably published in 1892, but I had already found when drafting the foundation skirt that its idea of “hips” includes a bit of structure. The “enough steel to carry a book or a cup of tea” kind of structure. I should have expected a lot of spring, and indeed that’s what I got.
To fit the bottom part of the back on the limited amount of fabric I had to piece it, and I suspect that the flat felled seam in the center is helping it sticking out; I don’t think it’s exactly bad, but it is a peculiar look.
Also, I had to cut the back on the fold, rather than having a seam in the middle and the grain on a different angle.
Anyway, my next waistcoat project is going to have a linen-cotton lining and silk fashion fabric, and I’d say that the pattern is good enough that I can do a few small fixes and cut it directly in the lining, using it as a second mockup.
As for the wrinkles, there is quite a bit, but it looks something that will be solved by a bit of lightweight boning in the side seams and in the front; it will be seen in the second mockup and the finished waistcoat.
As for this one, it’s definitely going to get some wear as is, in casual contexts. Except. Well, it’s a denim waistcoat, right? With a very different cut from the “get a denim jacket and rip out the sleeves”, but still a denim waistcoat, right? The kind that you cover in patches, right?
And I may have screenprinted a “home sewing is killing fashion” patch some time ago, using the SVG from wikimedia commons / the Home Taping is Killing Music page.
And. Maybe I’ll wait until I have finished the real waistcoat. But I suspect that one, and other sewing / costuming patches may happen in the future.
No regrets, as the words on my seam ripper pin say, right? :D
https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2024/03/08-denim_waistcoat/index.html
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Jeans, step two. And three. And four.
Posted on March 7, 2024
Tags: madeof:atoms, FreeSoftWear
I was working on what looked like a good pattern for a pair of jeans-shaped trousers, and I knew I wasn’t happy with 200-ish g/m² cotton-linen for general use outside of deep summer, but I didn’t have a source for proper denim either (I had been low-key looking for it for a long time).
Then one day I looked at an article I had saved about fabric shops that sell technical fabric and while window-shopping on one I found that they had a decent selection of denim in a decent weight.
I decided it was a sign, and decided to buy the two heaviest denim they had: a 100% cotton, 355 g/m² oneand a 97% cotton, 3% elastane at 385 g/m²1; the latter was a bit of compromise as I shouldn’t really be buying fabric adulterated with the Scourge of Humanity, but it was heavier than the plain one, and I may be having a thing for tightly fitting jeans, so this may be one of the very few woven fabric where I’m not morally opposed to its existence.
And, I’d like to add, I resisted buying any of the very nice wools they also seem to carry, other than just a couple of samples.
Since the shop only sold in 1 meter increments, and I needed about 1.5 meters for each pair of jeans, I decided to buy 3 meters per type, and have enough to make a total of four pair of jeans. A bit more than I strictly needed, maybe, but I was completely out of wearable day-to-day trousers.
The shop sent everything very quickly, the courier took their time (oh, well) but eventually delivered my fabric on a sunny enough day that I could wash it and start as soon as possible on the first pair.
The pattern I did in linen was a bit too fitting, but I was afraid I had widened it a bit too much, so I did the first pair in the 100% cotton denim. Sewing them took me about a week of early mornings and late afternoons, excluding the weekend, and my worries proved false: they were mostly just fine.
The only bit that could have been a bit better is the waistband, which is a tiny bit too wide on the back: it’s designed to be so for comfort, but the next time I should pull the elastic a bit more, so that it stays closer to the body.
I wore those jeans daily for the rest of the week, and confirmed that they were indeed comfortable and the pattern was ok, so on the next Monday I started to cut the elastic denim.
I decided to cut and sew two pairs, assembly-line style, using the shaped waistband for one of them and the straight one for the other one.
I started working on them on a Monday, and on that week I had a couple of days when I just couldn’t, plus I completely skipped sewing on the weekend, but on Tuesday the next week one pair was ready and could be worn, and the other one only needed small finishes.
And I have to say, I’m really, really happy with the ones with a shaped waistband in elastic denim, as they fit even better than the ones with a straight waistband gathered with elastic. Cutting it requires more fabric, but I think it’s definitely worth it.
But it will be a problem for a later time: right now three pairs of jeans are a good number to keep in rotation, and I hope I won’t have to sew jeans for myself for quite some time.
I think that the leftovers of plain denim will be used for a skirt or something else, and as for the leftovers of elastic denim, well, there aren’t a lot left, but what else I did with them is the topic for another post.
Thanks to the fact that they are all slightly different, I’ve started to keep track of the times when I wash each pair, and hopefully I will be able to see whether the elastic denim is significantly less durable than the regular, or the added weight compensates for it somewhat. I’m not sure I’ll manage to remember about saving the data until they get worn, but if I do it will be interesting to know.
Oh, and I say I’ve finished working on jeans and everything, but I still haven’t sewn the belt loops to the third pair. And I’m currently wearing them. It’s a sewist tradition, or something. :D
- The links are to the shop for Italy; you can copy the “Codice prodotto” and look for it on one of the shop version for other countries (where they apply the right vat etc., but sadly they don’t allow to mix and match those settings and the language).↩︎
https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2024/03/07-jeans_step_two_and_three_and_four/index.html
Jeany - Denim da 12,5 oz - Nero
Tessuto denim di alta qualità da 12,5 once in 100% cotone twill con un bel lavaggio. Il classico per pantaloni, giacche e altri capi.Tessutoattivo
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/me rants at aspell for daring to suggest “sexist” as a correction for “sewist”
sewist. it's a word. learn it.
and no, it's not “sewer”. I'm not a sewer, ok.
(go and suggest a patch for the dictionary file rather than ranting on the internet? naaaaaa, too much effort :D )
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/me gesticola col bastone contro aspell che suggerisce “sexist” come correzione per “sewist”
sewist. è una parola inglese. imparala.
e no, la parola giusta non è sewist. non sono una fogna, ok?
(alzare il culo e preparare e suggerire una patch ai file del dizionario, anziché lamentarsi su internet? troppo sbattito :D )
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Vendo macchina da cucire Singer 8280 usata
Chiedo 100 euro trattabili, consegna in zona Varese / Como (se proprio
proprio necessario si può organizzare per zona Milano).
Mi pare che sia stata comprata nei primi anni 2000, il modello era in
vendita e presente sul sito singer fino all'anno scorso.
Ovviamente è ancora presente il manuale originale, completo di istruzioni di
manutenzione base.
Non la uso da qualche anno, ma era perfettamente funzionante e ad una prova
veloce mi pare che lo sia ancora.
Ulteriori dettagli nei commenti
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Ero un po' impensierita, perché a marzo inoltrato non mi si era ancora palesata "la cosa da imparare a fare quest'anno"¹, ma ieri @valhalla e @mercatino credo mi abbiano risolto il problema 🥰
¹ anziché fare i "buoni propositi" d'inizio anno, che tanto poi restavano propositi, da qualche tempo ho iniziato a provare a imparare una cosa nuova ogni anno.
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Avviso contenuto: toot fondamentali
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@LaVi 🕊️📚🐈I think I know somebody else who could use that excuse :D
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Ehm…
https://www.livescience.com/39418-millipedes-caused-train-wreck.html
Slimy Suspects: How Millipedes Likely Caused a Train Wreck
Hundreds of small black Portuguese millipedes (Ommatoiulus moreletii) are the likely culprits in a train collision in Australia that injured six passengers.Marc Lallanilla (Live Science)
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I was luceting and suddenly my mother put To Tame a Land (Iron Maiden) on her phone, and my hands tried (and failed) to get into the rhythm of the song, and the rhythmic movement attracted a worm… er… and my hands stumbled because I'm not that good at luceting and I was trying to go too fast, and then my hands tried to pick up the rhythm again and… it was intense.
I need to train and try it again. But not this close to bedtime.
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Stavo usando il lucet e senza preavviso mia madre ha messo To Tame a Land (degli Iron Maiden) sul telefono, e le mie mani hanno cercato (invano) di prendere il ritmo della canzone, e il movimento ritmico ha attirato un verme… volevo dire… e le mani hanno inciampato perché non sono *così* brava con il lucet, e stavo cercando di andare troppo veloce, e poi le mie mani hanno cercato di riprendere il ritmo e… è stato intenso.
Devo allenarmi e riprovarci. Ma non quando è ora di andare a dormire.
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@Diego Roversi > the only thing? what about wet and cold feet?
/me, wearing woolen socks and hiking boots> what wet feet?
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@Diego Roversi > l'unica? e i piedi che si bagnano e prendono freddo no?
/me, con addosso scarponcini da trekking e scarpe di lana> quali piedi che si bagnano?
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The #sillyDream of tonight was finding and buying a #metal LP¹ from the band Iridium, titled of course Iridium, with a big *shiny* #FountainPen nib on the cover.
And now I have a voice in my mind that sings
♫ Iridium point / on a nib of steel / workers in a German plant / laying down iridium points ♫
to the tune of Medieval Steel (by Medieval Steel, from the EP Medieval Steel, of course)
¹ or maybe it was an EP? something round, 12 inches in diameter, and in a square cardboard sleeve anyway :)
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Gattone comasco se ne va a zonzo, piantando i propri bipedi umani nella disperazione. E io mi gioco ancora la carta del #PersoETrovato che più volte ha funzionato.
Confido in voi e nel vostro prezioso passaparola. Grazie!
#CercoTrovo #mastodonperilsociale #mastodoncats #gattidimastodon
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@LaVi 🕊️📚🐈 @rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua magari invece se vede un umano che gli parla in gatto si avvicina spontaneamente e si fa anche prendere in braccio
meglio ancora se l'umano parla in gatto *e* offre un tributo in croccantini, ovviamente
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#sewing update
the drawers have been finished. I haven't worn them yet.
the binding on the bottom of the #AugustaStays is done, that on the top is almost all attached, and then I need to sew it to the back. I'm procrastinating the cutting of the lining.
I've cut and started hemming the shoulder sack / marked bag. Wait, have I just started a new #handsewing project before finishing the ones in progress? Who does that kind of things (me. the answer is me. :D )
this morning I finished the last machine seams on the denim vest and attached the buttons, I need to to the buttonholes and then it's wearable.
the pieces for the shift have been cut, except for the fact that the side gores are still attached to the main body. I'm trying to figure out how I'm going to sew everything together (and that may change the exact size of the gores).
And I've realized that I've probably done one of the seams of the drawers wrong¹: I can fix the instructions I'm writing, but then they won't have a picture of that step until I do another pair of drawers. it will have to be.
¹ as in: perfectly serviceable, but not the way the book I was following probably intended.
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Aggiornamento sullo stato dei progetti di #cucito
I mutandoni sono finiti. Non li ho ancora indossati.
L'orlo inferiore delle Augusta Stays è stato ricoperto, su quello superiore ho attaccato quasi tutta la fettuccia, ma devo ancora fissarla sul retro. Sto procrastinando il taglio della fodera.
Ho tagliato e iniziato a cucire la borsa a sacco. Un momento, che borsa a sacco? Per caso ho iniziato un nuovo progetto di #cucitoAMano prima di aver finito quelli in corso? Chi è che fa queste cose!?! (io. :D )
Questa mattina ho finito le ultime cuciture a macchina sul gilet di jeans e attaccato i bottoni, mancano gli occhielli e poi è indossabile.
I pezzi della sottoveste sono stati tagliati, tranne il fatto che i godet laterali sono ancora attaccati al davanti e al dietro. Sto cercando di capire come assemblerò il tutto, e a seconda di come li cucio cambiano leggermente le misure.
E mi sono resa conto che probabilmente ho cucito parte dei mutandoni nel modo sbagliato¹: posso sistemare le istruzioni, ma vuol dire che per quel passaggio non ci sarà una foto fino a che non farò un altro paio di mutandoni. è così.
¹ funziona perfettamente, ma probabilmente non è il tipo di cucitura che intendevano nel libro che sto seguendo.
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Today we could see the yellow ball in the sky!
So in the afternoon I went on a frenzy of doing part of a seam, taking pictures, then doing another bit of a seam elsewhere, more pictures, rinse, repeat on the shift.
I hope I have enough half-done seams (and repeats of the same seam in a symmetric position) for the next few days of rain :)
Oggi si vedeva la palla gialla nel cielo!
Quindi nel pomeriggio ci ho dato dentro nel cucire una parte di una cucitura, fare foto, fare un altro pezzo di cucitura da un'altra parte, ulteriore foto, eccetera eccetera sulla sottoveste.
Spero di aver abbastanza cuciture a metà (e ripetizioni della stessa cucitura in una posizione simmetrica) per i prossimi giorni di pioggia :)
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time required to carefully measure and pleat two sleeves: X¹
time required to:
a) pin an approximation of the pleating pattern on half of one sleeve, to see whether it fits
b) make a custom pleating board with a precise version of said pleating pattern
c) pleat two sleeves using said pleating board
probably at least 4 × X, if not more.
Can you guess which option I've just chosen?
Can you guess that I'm a programmer? :D
¹ I don't know exactly know how much it would be, but I'd estimate a few tens of minutes
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tempo necessario per misurare con precisione ed effettuare delle pieghe su due maniche: X¹
tempo necessario per:
a) appuntire in modo approssimativo le pieghe su metà di una manica per verificare che la misura sia corretta
b) realizzare un ausilio per pieghe su misura con la versione precisa di quello schema di piegatura
c) piegare le due maniche usando il suddetto ausilio
probabilmente almeno 4 × X, se non di più.
Si indovina facilmente cosa ho scelto di fare?
Si capisce che sono un programmatore, vero?
¹ non so con precisione quanto sia, ma stimerei qualche decina di minuti
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And I've just realized that if I had done one of the seams in a slightly different way it would have been more accurate to the description in the book.
I've changed the instructions I'm writing.
Do I want to unpick the seam and do it again to take pictures?
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E mi sono appena resa conto che facendo una delle cuciture in un modo leggermente differente sarebbe stato più accurato rispetto alla descrizione data nel libro.
Ho corretto le istruzioni che sto scrivendo.
Ho voglia di disfare la cucitura e rifarla per fare foto?
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the custom pleating board was in the wrong size. It results in pleats that aren't deep enough to manage all of the fullness.
I could measure directly on the fabric, or I could use the second half of the poster paper sheet and make another one.
On a more positive note: the vest is wearable (not done. I have ideas.), and one half of the top binding of the #AugustaStays is done, and I'm on the way to finish the other half!
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l'ausilio di piegatura era della misura sbagliata. Fa delle pieghe che non sono abbastanza profonde per gestire tutta l'abbondanza di stoffa.
Potrei misurare le pieghe direttamente sulla stoffa, oppure potrei usare la seconda metà del foglio di carta da poster per farne un'altro.
Passando alle buone notizie: il gilet è indossabile (non finito. ho idee.) e metà dei margini delle Augusta Stays sono finiti, e sono ad un buon punto con l'altra metà!
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@rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua eh, ma per stirarci sopra stoffa bianca (e anche abbastanza trasparente) è meglio se non è ancora stampata, prima che con il caldo e il vapore si trasferisca qualche pezzo della stessa.
e poi dovrei andare tipo nella sede della lega? quelli che mettono in giro manifesti (e che spediscono volantini cartacei) qui da noi sono loro…
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@Carlo Ricchiardi @rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua la lettiera non è compostabile?
il manifesto di salvini credo che vada nell'indifferenziato, e poi ti fa alzare il prezzo della tassa dei rifiuti
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binding done!
I should really cut the lining pieces now
(instead I'm currently hemming the market bag)
margini rifiniti!
adesso è decisamente ora di tagliare la fodera
(invece sto facendo l'orlo della market bag)
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The second attempt at a custom pleating board worked just fine, I'm currently working on the sleeves of the shift.
I still haven't cut the lining pieces for the #AugustaStays
And I've made myself a new sashiko thimble, and patched the old one which was failing, because I'm using it on the market bag (and will need to use it for the next task in the “40s underwear” project)
Not historically accurate, I know. But much faster, and gives exactly the same result.
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Il secondo tentativo di ausilio di piegatura ha funzionato perfettamente, sto lavorando alle maniche della sottoveste.
E ancora non ho tagliato la fodera delle Augusta Stays.
Però mi son fatta un nuovo ditale per sashiko, e riparato quello vecchio che si stava bucando, perché lo sto usando per la market bag (e lo userò nel prossimo pezzo per il progetto “biancheria anni 40”)
La tecnica non è storicamente accurata. Ma si cuce molto più rapidamente, e il risultato è esattamente lo stesso.
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yesterday evening there was a salamino on the dinner table.
apparently, one grain of pepper from it ended up on the bread.
the same bread I had this morning for breakfast.
in the last bit of bread I was having.
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La(L)colazione dei campioni
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Tranquill* tutt*, quei giorni sono più che passati... Comunque sì, sto bene e durante la settimana non bevo mai prima di sera
Hey #knitting folks: what books/resources do you recommend for making clothing items based on your measurements, and then using gauge in your chosen yarn/stitch from there? Any type of garment or accessory is fine, but bonus points if you know of something that guides you on making tights/stockings (leggings with feet?)
Thanks in advance, everyone!
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@Ashley Reynolds This is the first sock pattern I've ever used and has been my sock pattern since then, some times extended up the leg by taking measurements and winging it :) https://knitty.com/ISSUEsummer06/PATTuniversalsock.html
however it's just a socks pattern, afaik most other things on the site are regular knitting patterns with precalculated numbers
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Unfortunately I don't remember which book. She also invented the sweet tomato heel, my favourite. Very smooth, easy to do.
no, un momento. siamo al 24 febbraio.
perché sta facendo un temporale *estivo* con grandine?
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Jeans, step one
Posted on February 19, 2024
Tags: madeof:atoms, craft:sewing, FreeSoftWear
CW for body size change mentions
Just like the corset, I also needed a new pair of jeans.
Back when my body size changed drastically of course my jeans no longer fit. While I was waiting for my size to stabilize I kept wearing them with a somewhat tight belt, but it was ugly and somewhat uncomfortable.
When I had stopped changing a lot I tried to buy new ones in the same model, and found out that I was too thin for the menswear jeans of that shop. I could have gone back to wearing women’s jeans, but I didn’t want to have to deal with the crappy fabric and short pockets, so I basically spent a few years wearing mostly skirts, and oversized jeans when I really needed trousers.
Meanwhile, I had drafted a jeans pattern for my SO, which we had planned to make in technical fabric, but ended up being made in a cotton-wool mystery mix for winter and in linen-cotton for summer, and the technical fabric version was no longer needed (yay for natural fibres!)
It was clear what the solution to my jeans problems would have been, I just had to stop getting distracted by other projects and draft a new pattern using a womanswear block instead of a menswear one.
Which, in January 2024 I finally did, and I believe it took a bit less time than the previous one, even if it had all of the same fiddly pieces.
I already had a cut of the same cotton-linen I had used for my SO, except in black, and used it to make the pair this post is about.
The parametric pattern is of course online, as #FreeSoftWear, at the usual place. This time it was faster, since I didn’t have to write step-by-step instructions, as they are exactly the same as the other pattern.
Making also went smoothly, and the result was fitting. Very fitting. A big too fitting, and the standard bum adjustment of the back was just enough for what apparently still qualifies as a big bum, so I adjusted the pattern to be able to add a custom amount of ease in a few places.
But at least I had a pair of jeans-shaped trousers that fit!
Except, at 200 g/m² I can’t say that fabric is the proper weight for a pair of trousers, and I may have looked around online1 for some denim, and, well, it’s 2024, so my no-fabric-buy 2023 has not been broken, right?
Let us just say that there may be other jeans-related posts in the near future.
- I had already asked years ago for denim at my local fabric shops, but they don’t have the proper, sturdy, type I was looking for.↩︎
https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2024/02/19-jeans_step_one/index.html
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I haven't finished my Augusta stays yet.
The Cassandra Stays pattern has been released.
https://thedreamstress.com/2024/02/meet-the-cassandra-stays/
what is going to happen?
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Non ho ancora finito le mie Augusta stays
È uscito il cartamodello delle Cassandra stays
https://thedreamstress.com/2024/02/meet-the-cassandra-stays/
che cosa succederà adesso?
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snac2: a minimalist ActivityPub server in Debian
https://jvalleroy.me/wordpress/?p=67
#Blog #snac2 #Debian #ActivityPub
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TFW it's the last day of carnival, and as you get dressed with your perfectly normal dress to go outside for mundane reasons you worry that people may ask you what you're dressed as
(which is not a big problem, as long as they don't decide that I'm dressed as something and so I'm fair game for being covered in nasty plastic foam from a can)
Patrick likes this.
LaVi 🕊️📚🐈 likes this.
Avviso contenuto: sogno, canzone che rimane in testa
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@Elena ``of Valhalla'' "LAA LA LAAA LALALA'.... ODINO! LAA LA LAAA LALALA' VALHALLA!"
...mo' chi me lo toglie dalla testa?
(corretto per una maggiore aderenza al materiale originale... gh.)
And with the jeans almost¹ done, I've cut a vest out of the leftovers, using a block² from a victorian manual (that I want to check for fit), but to be made with no regard for historical accuracy.
I've also cut three (3) small pockets, to test their positions and size, but I'm not going to do welt pockets on jeans, I'm also going for a simpler method for those.
¹ one pair fully done and worn yesterday for the whole day with success, the other pair is still missing some handsewing and the belt loops
² https://sewing-patterns.trueelena.org/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.html#vest
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Avendo quasi¹ finito i jeans, ho tagliato un gilet dalla stoffa rimanente, usando un modello base² da un manuale dell'ottocento (del quale voglio controllare le misure), ma realizzato senza la minima attenzione all'accuratezza storica.
Ho anche tagliato tre (3) taschini, per provare le posizioni e dimensioni, ma mi rifiuto di fare una tasca profilata sul jeans, userò un metodo più semplice.
¹ un paio completato ed indossato ieri tutto il giorno con successo, all'altro paio mancano ancora delle rifiniture a mano e i passanti.
² https://sewing-patterns.trueelena.org/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.html#vest
To celebrate Conversations being back on the Play Store and to deny Google their 15% cut I made the app free for the next ~48 hours. 😜
If you are new here: Check out #XMPP. It's federated, provider and vendor independent instant messaging. It’s great!
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=eu.siacs.conversations
Or get it from #fdroid - That version even has address book integration and public channel discovery! 😂
Conversations (Jabber / XMPP) - Apps on Google Play
An encrypted, user friendly XMPP instant messaging client optimized for mobileplay.google.com
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I think people who write concise posts they want to go viral never actually want replies.
So why not create a social media that doesn't have a reply feature, just people posting and sharing is they want to?
It could be a platform full of viral-wannabe bores, all lumped together.
Me, I want replies.
Unless they go on too long and I can't be bothered to read them.
Lydia Conwell :mastodon: likes this.
After years of sewing together this morning my sewing machine told me her name!
It happened while she was going through too-many-to-count layers of denim while hemming over a flat felled seam.
I supposed I should respect her privacy and avoid telling which name it is to everybody on the internet.
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A bit of a #sewing update.
Last weekend I was sewing the Augusta Stays, but I knew that while watching fosdem videos I could get to a point where I needed to do a fit test, which is not really compatible with fosdem, so I got ready for it by cutting a new top for myself in cotton voile, like the one at https://sewing-patterns.trueelena.org/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/index.html but with a bit more fullness and an attempt to give a ruffle look to the neckline and cuffs.
I started sewing on Sunday afternoon, and during the week it has progressed nicely, I've now reached the approximately 10 km seams around the neck (then there will be 5 km of seams around the cuffs, and it's done, I have already hemmed the bottom.
However, this meant that I procrastinated starting the binding on the stays. I hope that next week I'll find the courage to do them.
On the machine-sewing side, instead, I've been working on the jeans, but there were a couple of days when they just weren't working, so I stopped and did something else, and they are still stuck with the front and back assembled, and they need to be sewn together, and then finished with the waistband and hems. Next week, too.
OTOH, on the living room table there is now the last bit of elastic denim leftover with a pattern for a vest on top: it's a block from a victorian book, but I'm going to make it very simple, as a sort of wearable mockup for the pattern block.
https://sewing-patterns.trueelena.org/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.html#vest
I'm not going to actually cut it until I've finished the jeans, so that I'm 100% sure I don't need any more pieces for them, because the vest will use most of the usable leftovers.
Oh, and the distractions when stuff wasn't working involved reading the Workwoman's Guide and taking notes for more handsewing stuff for the near future. A hint on what may be had by looking at my openclipart account :) https://openclipart.org/artist/valhalla
Basically, I didn't do what I had planned to do, but it still wasn't that bad of a week.
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Un aggiornamento sul #cucito.
Lo scorso weekend stavo cucendo le Augusta Stays, ma sospettavo che guardando i video del fosdem sarei arrivata ad un punto in cui serviva una prova, che non è molto compatibile col weekend del fosdem, per cui mi sono portata avanti tagliando una nuova camicetta in voile di cotone, tipo https://sewing-patterns.trueelena.org/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/index.html ma con volant su collo e polsi.
Ho iniziato a cucirlo domenica pomeriggio e nel corso della settimana è andato avanti, adesso sono al punto in cui devo fare circa 10 km di cuciture sul collo e poi circa 5 km sui polsini, e a quel punto è finito (ho già fatto l'orlo sul fondo).
La cosa però ha comportato il procrastinare il rifinire gli orli delle stays, spero settimana prossima di trovare il coraggio.
Quanto al cucito a macchina, stavo lavorando sui jeans, ma ci sono stati un paio di giorni in cui le cose non funzionavano, per cui mi son fermata e ho fatto altro, e sono ancora fermi al punto in cui i davanti e i dietro sono assemblati, ma vanno cuciti assieme, e poi mancano cinturini e rifiniture tipo orli. Settimana prossima.
D'altra parte, sul tavolo della sala c'è l'ultimo pezzo di jeans elasticizzato con sopra un cartamodello per un gilet: è un modello preso da un libro vittoriano, ma ho intenzione di realizzarlo in modo molto semplice, come mockup indossabilke per il cartamodello.
https://sewing-patterns.trueelena.org/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.html#vest
Prima di tagliarlo però voglio aver finito i jeans ed essere 100% sicura di non aver bisogno di altri pezzi, perché con il gilé userei la maggior parte dei ritagli di dimensioni significative.
Oh, e tra le distrazioni di quando le cose non funzionavano c'è stato leggere la Workwoman's Guide e prendere appunti per altre cose da cucire a mano nel prossimo futuro. Un indizio su cosa potrebbe essere sul mio account openclipart :) https://openclipart.org/artist/valhalla
Fondamentalmente, non ho fatto quello che mi ero ripromessa di fare, ma tutto sommato non è stata una cattiva settimana.
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The top is finished!
(don't mind the fichu-like scarf which may or may not be there to cover the thermal underwear I was wearing under the top)
And I've also had @Diego Roversi take pictures of most of the jeans, so that in the next couple of weeks or so I can hopefully finish and publish the blog posts for them.
As for binding the stays. we don't talk about binding the stays :D
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La camicetta è finita.
(ignorate la sciarpa che potrebbe essere stata infilata a coprire la maglietta termica che stavo indossando sotto alla camicetta)
@Diego Roversi si è anche prestato per fare foto alla maggior parte dei jeans, per cui nelle prossime settimane spero di riuscire a finire e pubblicare i post relativi sul blog.
Quanto agli orli delle stays, quali orli delle stays?
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Comunque un giorno o l'altro potrei regalarti un'intonacata al muro 😄
two tabs of the stays have been half bound (i.e. I've sewn the tape from the front, not yet from the back).
tooManyToCount remaining
𝔄𝔤𝔞𝔱𝔥𝔞 𝔱𝔥𝔢 𝔖𝔴𝔢𝔞𝔯 𝔉𝔞𝔦𝔯𝔶 likes this.
due cosi¹ delle stays sono stati mezzi-ricoperti (ovvero ho cucito la fettuccia sul davanti, non ancora sul retro).
ne mancano… TroppiPerEssereContati
¹ termine preciso di sartoria storica, eh :D
Katy B. :debian:📚 🥛 likes this.
all of the bottom edge of the stays have been half bound.
I hope that sewing the tape from the back will be less fiddly than doing the first seam on the front (I hope), and then there is the top edge, which is significantly longer, but also much easier (I hope)
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Tutto l'orlo inferiore delle stays è stato rinifito a metà.
Spero che cucire la fettuccia sul retro sia meno incasinato della prima cucitura sul davanti (spero), e poi c'è l'orlo superiore, che è decisamente più lungo, ma dovrebbe essere anche più facile (spero).
You learned how much a shirt cost in the the middle ages! And how much a linen tunic cost in the Roman Empire. This week, find out how much a garment cost in the Late Bronze Age https://www.bookandsword.com/2024/02/10/how-much-did-a-garment-cost-in-the-bronze-age/ #histodons #egyptology #amarnaAge #materialCulture #cuneitoot
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If your site has RSS, people can view and interact with your site via an RSS reader, which may include accessibility features that your site does not.
For instance, maybe the RSS reader has a dark mode that your website lacks.
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I've just realized it is indeed the passengers' fault if the trains are late.
You see, a few days ago @Diego Roversi forgot his book home, and the train was quite late. Evidently the train is late when at least one of the passengers does so.
So, if every passenger took care to bring their own book to read while on the train, the trains wouldn't be late anymore!
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Mi sono appena resa conto che è effettivamente colpa dei passeggeri se i treni sono in ritardo.
Qualche giorno fa @Diego Roversi si è dimenticato il libro a casa, e il treno era in discreto ritardo. Evidentemente il treno è in ritardo quando almeno uno dei passeggeri lo fa.
Quindi, se tutti i passeggeri facessero attenzione e si portassero un libro da leggere quando sono sul treno, i treni non sarebbero più in ritardo!
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Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Avviso contenuto: JKR, personale
Disclaimer: ho letto l'Harry Potter canonico solo una volta, un bel po' di anni fa, e le mie memorie potrebbero essere passate attraverso degli occhiali colorati dalle fanfiction.
La cosa che veramente mi perplime della JKR però è che quel che mi ricordo della serie è che di base parlava di gente che combatteva contro un gruppo definito dal loro obiettivo principale di discriminare un gruppo non privilegiato. In uno stile da romanzi per ragazzi di qualità mediocre con un sacco di problemi e buchi di trama e di logica, ma i Cattivi della storia erano di base quelli che discriminavano e poi uccidevano ecc. i membri di una minoranza.
E poi l'autrice invecchia e fondamentalmente diventa una Mangiamorte?
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Ed, spanezz, Oblomov, j_bertolotti e federico like this.
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fucsia :QueerCat_Trans:
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Avviso contenuto: re: JKR, personale
Ma in fondo c'è sempre spazio per peggioramenti!
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rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua
in reply to fucsia :QueerCat_Trans: • • •Avviso contenuto: re: JKR, personale
Potrebbe diventare un'adepta della Brigliadori…
dibi58
in reply to fucsia :QueerCat_Trans: • • •Avviso contenuto: re: JKR, personale
segue la logica del nonno anbasciatore in inghterra simpatizzante del bravo cattolico adolfino ...
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to fucsia :QueerCat_Trans: • •Avviso contenuto: re: JKR, personale
fucsia :QueerCat_Trans: likes this.
Beko Pharm
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Avviso contenuto: JKR, personal
sounds like a very severe case of Never Meet Your Idols to me. Generally spoken, I mean, not you specific.
I mean actors and writers have this in common. Both can play|fantasise a character|world that is not reality.
Their characters do not have to align with the fiction at all and seldom do.
I don't see the real surprise here. Humans do what they do. The story sold so more was written.
This isn't an excuse for a shitty character, of course 🙃
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Beko Pharm • •Avviso contenuto: JKR, personal
@Beko Pharm yeah, I consider myself very lucky that I never really cared much for canon and only got into Harry Potter stuff with the fanfics.
But around fandom I've read many times of variously unprivileged people saying that they read the original books in their formative years and they loved them so much because it empowered them, and. this whole thing must hurt. a lot.
And I don't know, the whole “stuff sells, make more stuff” easily explains what happened later, but not really the early works, would it?
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Beko Pharm
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Avviso contenuto: JKR, personal
personally I don't get how anyone can develop such a mindset over the years.
I guess "they" don't get "me" either tho.
There's this saying about everyone becoming more conservative with age.
I feel the opposite. Blame the Fe-diverse. I guess being confronted with multiple different points of view each day helps to keep an open mind 🤷
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Beko Pharm • •Avviso contenuto: JKR, personal
Beko Pharm likes this.
Beko Pharm
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Avviso contenuto: JKR, personal
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Hypolite Petovan
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Hypolite Petovan • •Avviso contenuto: JKR, personal
@Hypolite Petovan otoh Hermione can also be seen as the one that basically really saves everyone (almost to Mary Sue levels, at times), so an empowering character rather than one that is stuck under oppressive gender roles.
(but here I may be misremembering thing and being influenced by the fact that I may have read a few Hermione based fanfictions. just a few :D )
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Hypolite Petovan
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla'' likes this.